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Stihls's Duro chains...

Started by The-Burl-Hunter, February 17, 2009, 06:00:29 PM

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The-Burl-Hunter

hello,
I was just on stihls website and saw a chain that I thought would be a good one to use, but didn't know if anyone on the forum has used one before, ( so that I could get a review ) and was wondering how good they are http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html#RD I was looking at the 2 Duro's that were not for fire and rescue. thank-you very much

Rocky_J

The carbide tipped chains typically don't cut very well, no where near as fast as a properly sharpened chain. They are also extremely expensive. It's cheaper to learn how to file properly.
;D

Frickman

I bought one back in the 90's for a log bucker I had who couldn't keep his saw out of the dirt. I think it cost around $140.00 back then for a 20" chain. It was one rough cutting chain, and slow too. It didn't get dull though. You had to hit rocks to get it dull. I ended up breaking off most of the carbide trying to sharpen some real old, real dry locust fence posts. The log bucker is long gone, and so is the chain.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

tyb525

Bailey's sells a chain that is "coated" with carbide chips to stay sharper longer, which cuts more like regular chain, but is more durable. They can be ground with a normal grinding wheel I think. I haven't got to try one myself, but I'm thinking about it.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

sawcollector

The RD (Rapid Duro) chain is a full size 3/8 in .050 and .063 and is pricey.
The new PD3 (Picco Duro) is a reduced kickback carbide chain in the 3/8 low profile size, for small saws and it is very reasonable in price. I watched a demo and the man cut through a cant, then into a cinder block, then back through the wood with no obvious change in cutting speed. I just brought home a loop today and will try it out this weekend on a MS 250 to see how it feels.
It can only be sharpened with a diamond wheel. It may not cut as fast as a regular chain but the idea is that it will be more forgiving for the average user that may "accidently" dip the nose of the bar in the dirt or other equally dulling situations.

bandmiller2

That carbide tipped chain,like rocky says,cuts like a dull chain all the time.It is primarily used in rescue saws in the fire service,and its of dubious value there.I have used the chipper chain with the spray on carbide grits a little better in gritty logs but not really worth what you pay for it.Clean the cut area as best you can and sharpen often with regular chain,seems their are no silver bullets.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Rocky_J

Files are a buck each, a heck of a bargain!  :D

Dave Shepard

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 18, 2009, 06:13:55 AM
That carbide tipped chain,like rocky says,cuts like a dull chain all the time.It is primarily used in rescue saws in the fire service,and its of dubious value there.I have used the chipper chain with the spray on carbide Dave Shepard brand grits a little better in gritty logs but not really worth what you pay for it.Clean the cut area as best you can and sharpen often with regular chain,seems their are no silver bullets.Frank C.

I need to quote that one for posterity. :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

chipsfly09

I have to agree with the majority of posts here-- we tried  both types of chains when clearing-- cutting off stumps when trees removed with track hoe-- There was a lot of sand/grit often so we thought we might get a huge gain in durability and staying sharp to offset the $$  Yep--The chains do seem to cut like a dull chain even when new or re-sharpened-- We don't use them anymore.

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