026 wood boss flooding

dave7191 · February 14, 2009, 09:07:47 PM

spitting gas out of carburetor and will cause it to flood the engine seem to still have good compression. I haven't looked at it at all except to see what it was doing will run wide open
Thanks in advance for any help
Dave

Rocky_J · February 14, 2009, 09:12:23 PM

After basic servicing (clean filter, check plug, etc), the next step is to make sure the carb is set properly. Here's the link again.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm

dave7191 · February 17, 2009, 02:00:48 PM

Sorry it has taken so long to get back life got in the way. I had tried to readjust the carberator and it didn't do any good. Clean out the air filter Didn't check the plug but starts fine till it floods Looking for other things to check before rebuilding the carb

Kevin · February 19, 2009, 07:36:53 AM

You can always try cleaning the carb prior to rebuilding it.

joe_indi · February 20, 2009, 11:31:45 PM

Two possibilities.
#1. Accumulation of saw dust just above the metering diaphragm. You will have to remove the cover fitted with the 4 small screws, wipe off the saw dust and refit the cover.
#2. A worn metering needle or a poorly seating metering needle.The needle will need to be replaced in the former case.However, if you don't want to do that right now, you could increase the tension of the metering spring by increasing its length a wee bit. If the needle seat is the problem, you could 'lap' the seat using a graphite pencil.But do this very carefully or the tip of the pencil could snap.Wash out the metering are after the 'lapping' to get rid of any graphite dust.

Joe

John Bartley · February 21, 2009, 07:14:17 AM

Depending on the amount of use the saw has seen, another reason for spitting back through the carb (while running) causing it to stall, is a worn skirt on the intake side of the piston. This is seen most often on saws that run in either dusty or icy environments. I used to see this most often in saws that were used by year-round house framers.

cheers

John

Al_Smith · February 21, 2009, 08:03:59 AM

A person would have to put about a zillion hours on a saw engine to waller out the needle and seat .

Most likely the carb innards are stiff as a board . A rebuild kit is only around 10 bucks or so unless you buy it though the almighty Stihl company .Then expect to pay considerabley higher .

Rekitting a carb is real easy .About 10 minutes if you know what you are doing and a half hour if you don't .

Funny because I hear comments about stripping out scews etc . The only way to do that is get them confused with a cylinder head bolt or something . Tight is tight,too tight is broken .

joe_indi · February 24, 2009, 01:08:30 AM

Quote from: Al_Smith on February 21, 2009, 08:03:59 AM
A person would have to put about a zillion hours on a saw engine to waller out the needle and seat .

Needle tips are of rubber like substance and can loose shape after a period of time, or harden too much to give improper sealing.
The seat is metal, and may not wear out fast.But, accumulation of any gummy substance carried by the fuel could make the seal leak.
The graphite pencil will remove any such accumulation without causing any damage to the seat.