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oak lap siding?

Started by shad, February 09, 2009, 12:39:58 PM

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shad

Hello, we are planning to use the house plans in Jack Sobon's book, Build a Classic Timber Framed House.  It calls for 1/2" x 6" lap siding. We plan to saw everything from our woodlot of mostly red oak, white oak and post oak.
Can you make lap siding from oak? If you stack and air dry it will it stay straight and not twist too bad?   

ARKANSAWYER


  Put it up green.  It will dry in place just as good.
ARKANSAWYER

Raphael

Quote from: ARKANSAWYER on February 09, 2009, 02:01:54 PM

  Put it up green.  It will dry in place just as good.

Or better...  If it does sit around before going up sticker and weight it well.
... he was middle aged,
and the truth hit him like a man with no parachute.
--Godley & Creme

Stihl 066, MS 362 C-M & 24+ feet of Logosol M7 mill

shad

Hey, thanks for the info. Out of my three choices, red oak, post oak, and white oak, which would make the best siding? Also which one would make the best flooring?

Dodgy Loner

I think they would all make good flooring and siding.  If it were me, though, I would use the post oak and white oak for the siding, since their heartwood is more rot-resistant, and red oak for the flooring because it's not quite as hard on your planers and shapers.
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

WILDSAWMILL

Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 10, 2009, 04:31:32 PM
I think they would all make good flooring and siding.  If it were me, though, I would use the post oak and white oak for the siding, since their heartwood is more rot-resistant, and red oak for the flooring because it's not quite as hard on your planers and shapers.
thats exactly my thoughts also
Kascosaw2B

ljmathias

I'm currently cutting siding for my MIL's little house- using denim pine and cedar with tulip poplar for the trim on the windows, doors and corners.  Just ordered 15 gallons of Woodguard from Logfinish.com and while discussing colors and what they do to various woods, was told that oak does NOT take to their product (or vice versa).  Something to think about before you invest a lot of time and/or money: make sure whatever stain and treatment you plan on using will work with the wood you want to use, maybe by trying a sample first?

Anyway, best of luck- sure wish I had a bunch of white oak to cut up: love to make stuff with it, expecially stuff made out of wood...

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

routestep

By what method are you going to make the lap.  I did ship lap on by 14 by 24' shed using one inch hemlock. The mill couldn't cut laps so I did it myself. I had a small Dewalt table saw with a dado cutter mounted on. Rigged up a long table at waist height and started feeding boards.

MbfVA

 May I wake this one up after all these years 💤💤💤💤, please.

Would someone tell me how it worked out, and whether or not the siding needs to be beveled?  We also have a lot of white oak, red Oak, and miscellaneous hardwoods, 175 ac forested, on our property to use.

There doesn't seem to be total agreement on the use of green wood no matter what the use--anyone care to change their opinion on that regarding siding?

Flooring green, esp if quarter sawn?  I know there are opinions elsewhere, I just want to see if it worked out for this poster.

Thanks, I hope someone sees this.
www.ordinary.com (really)

btulloh

Siding is ok green but not flooring.  Unless you like gaps in your floor.
HM126

MbfVA

 I was afraid you'd say that.  You and Don P have been talking about me behind my back, haven't you?  Here I am trying to save green (and time) by using green, and you guys won't agreen with me.

Redeem yourself by coming over and giving us a nice review on our fried chicken. 🐓🐓🐔🐔
www.ordinary.com (really)

btulloh

Fried chicken solves all problems.  Green floors - GOOD!  It's easy to sweep the floor when there's big gaps. 
HM126

MbfVA

then I would not need central vac...
www.ordinary.com (really)

Crusarius

nah your doing this wrong. plumb the central vac to use the cracks in the floor. Flip a switch let it go for a few minutes shut it off. Housecleaning done.

:)

MbfVA

 if I made the cracks big enough, it would work in the restaurant for those truly truly obnoxious customers as well..." yes ma'am, the complaint department is downstairs".
www.ordinary.com (really)

Don P

At these thicknesses in red oak or poplar the boards will be ready or well on their way for siding by the time you get built, trimmed out and ready. I've tried to bend nature to my will before. with siding the sun is hitting the exposed face and drying it extremely fast. The backside is in the shade up against housewrap, moisture is escaping, sort of.  recipe for cupping, which it has done when I tried green siding. 5/8 x 6 poplar square board lap siding is pretty much the norm here. Much thicker than that and the carpenter bees begin to eye the bottom edge as room enough to tunnel into. flooring needs to finish in a kiln.

MbfVA

The Carpenter bees love our log cabin restaurant, that's for sure.  But our nearby house is cedar sided, and I've seen no bees there.   interesting point about the thickness.   Poplar is typically very wet when it's cut, right?  We have to stick to Cedar, or one of the oaks, all of which we have in huge abundance.
www.ordinary.com (really)

MbfVA

 Want to have some fun, shoot those Carpenter bees with a BB gun. I had about a 10% success rate last time I tried, it goes up when they're in love.   They burst ever so beautifully when they're hit.
www.ordinary.com (really)

MbfVA

How about Kaswell.com, their "end laid" type flooring (it's just 1 of their many products)?  Does anyone have any experience with that?

It was used in a mall near here according to that site, going to check what it looks like.

It does not appear to require tongue and groove.  Green, I'm not sure.
www.ordinary.com (really)

PA_Walnut

Great thread revival!  8)

About to put up a building and would like to saw my siding also.

Anyone comment on Woodmizer's attachment for this?

Thanks.
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Peterson Dedicated Wide Slabber
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln
Northland 800 Kiln

samandothers

I understand that Carpenter bees will not bore in Cypress either, so I have been told.

btulloh

I've had lot's of damage to ERC from carpenter bees.  Never seen them eat cypress though.
HM126

MbfVA

Since they will eat right through treated lumber of any type, they must be eating without digesting, or chewing and spitting out. Paint and stain don't seem to stop them either.
www.ordinary.com (really)

Magicman

Oh yes, they will definitely bore holes in Cypress.  They do not eat the wood.  "Sawdust" will be dropping from the hole as they bore and they reuse the holes year after year.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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MbfVA

 I would also suggest plugging the holes after shooting some poison in them. They will reuse & expand them.
www.ordinary.com (really)

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