saw teeth or bits.

timberjackpa · February 09, 2009, 09:04:43 AM

What is the best teeth to use standalls, long or regular. Does it really make a difference? I was told that standalls are best for winter. :-\ IDK.

Meadows Miller · February 09, 2009, 09:17:00 AM

Gday Tony

Im not too sure mate as ive never cut frozen wood mate ;) ;D :D :D schorched yep frozen No ;) :D :D
Ron will most likely be along shortly and point you in the rite direction are you still mainly aiming at sawing pine as that will determen the size kerf and the style tooth you will need to use also I take it your running an 8 gauge saw on the belsaw mate

Reguards Chris

timberjackpa · February 09, 2009, 09:22:10 AM

oh my I had no Idea you folks down there was having i serious condition I hope they get it under control!!!

Jeff · February 09, 2009, 10:03:45 AM

Never liked standalls at all. Always had trouble with them breaking. We used super shanks rather then standalls and had the best luck with that. Sawing in Northern Michigan give you lots of time to deal with frozen or partially frozen logs.

Frickman · February 09, 2009, 07:18:43 PM

I prefer a standard bit and change shanks for the winter, just like Jeff used to do.

Ron Wenrich · February 10, 2009, 05:47:40 AM

I run long bits and winter shanks all year long. When you change shanks, you should have your saw hammered, as it can change your tension somewhat.

Standalls may be OK if you are running summer shanks. They are designed to slow down the sawdust in the shank and prevent it from spilling out of the gullet. I never liked them, either.

When you get into half frozen logs, there isn't a bit or a shank that will help you out. When sawdust cakes onto the sides of the log or the board, it'll push your saw.

bandmiller2 · February 10, 2009, 06:10:45 AM

TJ ,Our professional sawyers pretty much have it covered.Myself I prefer standard long bits,the standalls always seemed to pull harder to me.I was given two boxes of standalls so I'am using them now.Around here some old cheap yankees claim you can get more life from worn out shanks by using standalls I don't know.Sharp and even width means much more than tooth type.Frank C.

karl · February 10, 2009, 07:49:03 AM

My experience is limited to Mobile Dimension...but I prefer long bits. Have a partial box of standalls but only use them in the small edgers(which we never use these days).

Mr Mom · February 10, 2009, 08:26:09 AM

What are you guys talking about??
The type of teeth that you put in a sawblade.
Could someone post pictures of diffrent types.
I was thinking about getting circlular saw.

Thanks Alot Mr Mom

Meadows Miller · February 10, 2009, 08:58:31 AM

Gday

MrMom we are talking about Inserted tooth saw Bits which are the cutting teeth used and Shanks which are used to hold the Bits into the body of the saw plate Mate ;) ;D

There are a multitude of gullet types which is related to the volume of sawdust the gullet can carry out of a cut ;) they are avalable in the fllowing sizes 2 1/2 , F style , B style and 3 style the most common two ive used are 2 1/2s on Forestmills simmilar to a MD and the B style are the main insert saw used down here for head saws ive got a 20 tooth 36" and a 38 tooth 44" B style saws myself the 36" gets used on resawing old ties and the 44" on pine and old warf piles ;)

With the bits you can get them in all styles and alot of differnt widths (kerfs the clearance between the edge of the tooth and the body of the saw) lengths and compounds I use arsaw 9/32 Tct super bits myself and they give me a dang good runn on dirty wood mate
but you can also get teeth in std & long steel , Chrome plated std & long, stellite coverd stds & longs

I dont have any pics but i reckon that one of the blokes will mate ;) ;D ;D

Reguards Chris

Ron Wenrich · February 10, 2009, 06:09:08 PM

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 10, 2009, 06:10:45 AM
Around here some old cheap Proud and intelligent gentlemenses from a nawth'n state claim you can get more life from worn out shanks by using standalls I don't know.Sharp and even width means much more than tooth type.Frank C.

I could never understand why people try to see how long they can stretch teeth or shanks. Saws perform so much better with good shanks and good teeth. The extra expense is easily offset by increased performance and production.

timberjackpa · February 10, 2009, 06:27:33 PM

Thanks for the input guys! How do you know when your shanks are wore out?

Jeff · February 10, 2009, 06:30:52 PM

They should have good sharp edges in the gullet area. If they are rounded at all, sawdust will spill along the plate.

Sawyerfortyish · February 10, 2009, 07:50:23 PM

Hey meadows miller simonds just about has a monopoly on saw bit market here. Do you down under have diferant manufactures than we do?

Meadows Miller · February 10, 2009, 11:44:02 PM

Gday

Sawyer 40sh Most of our double and triple plated saws over 30" dia are made with imported plates from the Usa , Sweden and Finland mate
Inserts arnt popular here there are only afew production sawmills running them inc myself Most mills here run double plate spring setts or brased on Tct tipps tct,s will set you back about $20 ea aust

there are only two large sawmill supply shops in australia and only Phoenix Sawmill supplyes sells inserts they deal with Simmonds and P/Hoe I have a new saw arriving shortly from the us for the meadows project ;)

Puppa and Dad had the rights to sell and distribute Simmonds saws in australia and the pacific region from the mid 70s to the late 80s then Phoenix took over from them

So the short of it is that i have to stay about 3 months ahead in my bit and shank supplys as i buy them and have them shipped for me direct from Arsaw The saws I buy through Phoenix in syd as they give me a dang good price and it saves me alot of one off import duties as they shipp by the container load ;) the 54" 48 tooth B style 7/8 gauge is just on $3100 inc 10%gst that ill clam back when i do my quarterly tax that comes with 9/32nd tct bits and shanks the Arsaw bits cost me about $5 au with postage i buy them in boxes of 100 bits

Reguards Chris

Frickman · February 11, 2009, 06:33:57 PM

Ron W. said that any time you change shanks you should have the saw hammered. That's right. What I neglected to say is that I change the whole saw for the winter. Just like tires on the car, I have a winter saw and a summer saw.

Jeff · February 11, 2009, 06:44:02 PM

I coulda shoulda mentioned that too. I had a saw that ran much better in frozen wood and over the years made sure it was ready to put on when it was time.

Frickman · February 11, 2009, 07:12:17 PM

It's been mentioned before, but I'll say it again. Half frozen logs are some of the most miserable things to saw. Frozen the whole way through are ok, completely thawed are better. If you try sawing on a nice sunny day after a long cold spell you'll encounter logs that are thawed out on the side facing the sun and frozen on the side lying next to the pile or ground. If you can saw those logs you have a good running mill and a very good saw. Do like Jeff and save that saw for winter.