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Bandsaw blade width

Started by slabmaster, January 31, 2009, 07:29:20 PM

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slabmaster

I've been thinking on getting a Rikon 14" bandsaw to resaw some 8" wide boards i milled. The biggest band it takes is 3/4" wide.Is that ok for resawing? I've been told is isn't worth useing because it would wander too much in the cut.Is that true? My shop is too small for a bigger saw and if this one isn't worth messing with, i won't get one and use my csm.I just thought i'd get less waste with the smaller kerf, but if it is going to wander in the cut  i 'll just use the csm to do it.

Tom

If you are talking about a vertical shop bandsaw, I've seen folks resaw with 3/8 and 1/2 inch bands.  I dont know if I could do it because I've not tried, but 3/4 should be a good blade to resaw with, even though most of the shop resaws are bigger.  Some are 3".  That gets expensive.

The people I've seen and heard of doing it are free handing the resawing by following a pencil line and just eye-balling the band.

Mark Duginske has published a book called Band Saw Handbook.  It's a Sterling published book.  He shows, in there, how to resaw. :)

LeeB

Unless you have the horses I would go with 1/2". You can resaw just fine with that, just don't push it too hard. I don't know how much sawing you're talking about, but a shop saw works fine for small amounts. Go with a 3tpi blade.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

slabmaster

It comes with a 1&1/2 horse,but i can put a bigger one on it.That's not a problem.I'm just concerned about the the saw not being able to use a 1" blade.I've been told that anything less just isn't worth the trouble as it will wander in the cut and waste too much lumber.I'm wanting to cut thin backs & sides for acoustic guitars which i build.

LeeB

Well now, we got us several guitar makers in house. I suppose one of them will be along after a while to better answer your question. I think you could easily get by with 5/8 or 3/4" and quite possibly the 1/2". Try posting this in the woodworking board. You might get more answers there.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Handy Andy

  You could always get you a MM 16.  Those bandsaws will cut anything.  Think the new ones are about 5 hp.  And you can run a 1" blade.  When they run their end of year special, they include a carbide tip blade.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

sgschwend

If you can get a sharp blade and tension it correctly it should cut just fine.

The technique I have used on a 14" vertical bandsaw is to use a round nose fence perpendicular to the blade so that I can find the line and follow it.

The fence would be almost the same height as you stock, sound like 8".  I used a 5/16 dowel.  Your bandsaw may not have the tension for a 3/4" wide blade.  Getting good tension is the key (and a sharp blade).  You want to remove the resaw blade if you are going to use the bandsaw for other types of cuts.
Steve Gschwend

sjgschwend@gmail.com

schmism

ive resawed quite a bit of material for the wood shop on a 14" vertical bandsaw.

3/4" on maximum tension works fine.  Make shure you dont loose the set in the blade else it will start to wander.

1.5hp is usable but will limit your feed rate.

1/2 or 5/8 also work but they dont last as long (due to the heat) as they dont have as much material in the blade as the 3/4"  (remember you dont use water lubricant/coolant when you resaw in the shop)
039 Stihl 010AV  NH TC33D FEL, with toys

slabmaster

Thanks for the replys everyone! There's something else i've was told to try.To run a 1/2 in. blade and track the cutting edge over the crown of the wheel to get less wandering of the blade when resawing.I like that idea if it works, but won't be able to run a 3/4" blade that way. What are your thoughts on do this?

LeeB

I think it would tend to take out the set.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

slabmaster

Quote from: LeeB on February 01, 2009, 03:02:48 PM
I think it would tend to take out the set.
What do you mean taking out the set? Please explain.

Tom

The set of a blade is the amount of Kerf it creates.  Kerf is the width of the cut through the wood.  It is accomplished by one of Three means.  One is called a wave set.  That is like most of the metal cutting bands. The teeth are all ground sharp and then the tooth side of the blade is bent so that the teeth wave. That makes sure that the kerf is wide enough for the clearance required by the body of the band.

Another way creates set by bending the tip of each tooth to either one side or the other.  That creates a wide enough kerf for clearance.  This is the configuration of most wood cutting saws.

The third way is to swage the tooth.  That means that you flatten the face of the tooth, by striking it with a hammer-like device, to cause it to be wider than the rest of the blade.  It creates a kerf wider than the blade and provides clearance as well.

Carbide tipped teeth use a "plate" attached to the tooth.  The plate is wider than the body of the blade and performs much the same way as a swaged tooth.


The kerf can be too wide and the band will wander, because a proper kerf also helps the band to remain true to the course by guiding the back side of the band.

The kerf can be too narrow and cause the body of the band to rub in the kerf.  That can pull the blade one way or the other and also cause life-taking heat to be generated in the band.

A band that has more set on one side than the other, will tend to cut in the direction of the side that has the most set.  That's where "lead" comes into play.  Many small saws have untrue "sets" and the lead is fought by the operator who must find the degree of angle to induce that will cause the band to cut a straight line. 

A properly set and sharpened blade/band will cut straight and cool.


The bandwheels are crowned.  That means that the surface is curved from one side to the other.  The band will follow the crown and that is what keeps the band centered.  If possible, the teeth should hang off of the front of the wheel.  If the bands are too narrow, they should be kept off of the crown to minimize the pressure exerted on them by the wheel and it's springs, or other tensioning devices. 

By running the teeth over the bandwheel crown, pressure is applied to the teeth rather than just the body of the band, and the set on that side is taken out (flattened).  The band will no longer cut true.

LeeB

Tom, you really do such a good job of answering on my behalf. Next time I get in trouble with Lindy can I refer her to you?  :D :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Tom

Didn't mean to butt in, Lee.   :D

I just saw that you weren't on when I answered.  :)

Sometimes I just have this uncontrollable need to run my mouth.  :D :D

LeeB

Not suggesting you butted in. Was meant as a compliment. I was gonna reply and when I scrolled down I saw you had beat me to it and done much better than I could have done. Now then, back to sending Lindy to you for answers next time I'm in the dog house, whatcha say?.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Tom

Thanks, Lee. 
I'll try with Lindy, but you have to realize that I have one of them too.  Gael is in great need of having things explained to here and I've managed to faill at every opportunity.   I have been enlightened to some of the most illogical logic I could ever imagine though.  :D :D

LeeB

You too huh. Must be genderic. :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

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