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Can't find the right table saw

Started by Dodgy Loner, January 28, 2009, 12:00:09 PM

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SwampDonkey

#100
March 06, 2009, 08:39:10 PM
Been lucky here and maybe a little smarts to, but I have never had a kickback. I don't take chances and I have procedures I follow for each kind of cut. It's not about bragging rights, it's about keeping your body parts in tact. ;D I knew one old fellow that trimmed 3 digits.  ::)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

fbelknap

#101
March 06, 2009, 09:22:27 PM
I would like to recommend zero clearance inserts.  It will make for a better (less tear out on the bottom) and is safer.  With the factory insert small pieces can get sucked down beside the blade and sometimes they get thrown at you.  Have fun but be safe.   ;D

tyb525

#102
March 07, 2009, 12:32:32 AM
I've always been told (By both uncles who are woodworkers, one is a shop teacher), that you the teeth of the blade should be about 1/8" and no more than 1/4" above the wood. That way, if you're finger happens to touch the blade, the cut is 1/4" at the most. I'd rather have a shallow cut than a deep one. This also results in less tearout/splintering, imo. :P

Plus it's just plain scary to me to see a lot of the blade spinning above the wood, even with a pushstick.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

WDH

#103
March 07, 2009, 07:29:12 AM
Believe me Ty, don't let the board ride up over the top of the blade or you will have a hole in your body or your shop wall.  That low blade height lessens one risk but increases another.  Just like life and the economy, there are no free rides.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

DanG

#104
March 07, 2009, 09:08:33 AM
I just keep the blade all the way up unless I have a particular reason not to.  That way the force of the blade contacting the wood, and the resulting reaction force is more downward than horizontal.

Safety glasses are a must, but even a face shield is a good idea if you're cutting ERC.  Those knots are bad about shattering or just blowing out altogether.  They hurt like hell when they hit ya in the snoot. :o :'(
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

metalspinner

#105
March 07, 2009, 09:56:40 AM
Just like DanG mentioned.  The rotational force of the blade is pushing your board.  The lower the blade, the greater the kickback force towards you (Kickback)!  Kickback injuries can be devastating. I fear that more than contacting the blade.  Kickback chances increase with low blade height, dull saw, misaligned fence, tension in the wood, and crooked and/or warped  lumber going through the saw.  Combine any of these things into one pass on the saw and WATCHOUT! :o

I usually set the blade height so the gullet clears the workpiece thickness.  With a long and tall push shoe, you have great control and leverage on your workpiece to keep it flat on the saw with your hand out of the way.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Ironwood

#106
March 08, 2009, 09:42:42 AM
Taller blade= less kickback risk, BUT also VERY scary blade whirling above the cut. For my .02 cent, as a guy who has had a kick back "occurance", your better off w/ a low blade and good push sticks. I had a time when in the instance the kick back occurred (no push stick),  I allowed my hand to accellerate rearward w/ the kickback and fly over the blade just grazing my fingers ever soooooo slightly. This was many years ago early in my career, I learned then about blade hieght and good push sticks. I have 2-3 sticks at every machine so there is NEVER an excuse NOT use one. I paint them brightly as well.

  The other thing I do is have few reminders around (usually by the shop light switch) of a Halloween store gimmick arm/ hand. I usually put some red marker on the end and put "not in this shop" as well. I have made literally thousands of cuts on hundreds of machines over the years and that has been my closest call.

           Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Warbird

#107
March 08, 2009, 12:27:19 PM
I'm just getting my new table saw built and you guys are scaring the hell outta me with all this talk.  Ironwood, I have a decent bandsaw to make some push sticks with.  Do you have a recommended design?  Would 1x pine board be adequate for a good push stick?

Ironwood

#108
March 08, 2009, 03:24:17 PM
Warbird,

I like hard maple for sticks. I make a hand profile on the top side and a internal 90 on the bottom which is at a low angle to the table. The hard maple is good as it gets cut down in time and maple has the better strength as it is thinnner and thinner.


                Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

isawlogs

#109
March 11, 2009, 02:23:10 PM
 
All of my push sticks are made from a peice of scrap , most often it is pine. I have yet to have one break , if they get to the point that they are thin enough for me to think they could break it gets tossed to the burn pile .
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

Dan_Shade

#110
March 11, 2009, 02:32:12 PM
i like plywood for push sticks, with a solid peice of wood, you have to make sure it won't crack and break in half.  if I were to use a solid wood peice, I'd drill it and put a dowel through it, to keep a catastophic accident from happening if it cracks.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Ironwood

#111
March 11, 2009, 08:05:01 PM
good idea on the ply wood, just make sure it is the old stuff or the modern high quality stuff, not the garbage w/ voids in it.

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

IMERC

#112
March 17, 2009, 10:42:23 PM
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

Handy Andy

#113
April 16, 2009, 11:12:40 PM
  Kind of late here, but here goes, I got this thing called a Shark Guard for my table saw, it has a splitter that bolts on where the guard on my Unisaw went, and then a plastic guard that hooks onto the splitter, which can be removed and hung up, and the plastic guard has a hookup for a dust hose.  So anytime I can use the guard, I do, and turn on the dust collector.  Saves getting a lot of sawdust in your eyes.  And the splitter saves you from kickbacks. Having more hp on the Uni than my old Cman saw, gotta think about kickbacks.  One time on a house job, a kid was ripping a board, and he just let go and walked around the saw to pull it on through, and the saw threw that board clear through the sr wall into the kitchen. I was glad I wasn't in the kitchen.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

Dodgy Loner

#114
April 17, 2009, 08:48:10 AM
A dust collector is a luxury I wish I could afford!
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

TexasTimbers

#115
April 18, 2009, 10:34:29 PM
DL it's only a luxury when you don't have one. Once you get one you'll tell everyone who doesn't have one it's a necessity . . . . and you'll mean it. And you'll be correct.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Dodgy Loner

#116
April 22, 2009, 12:03:32 AM
I'm 100% sure you're correct.  If only my certainty would make the money to buy it and the time to install it magically appear :D
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

oldsaw

#117
April 27, 2009, 06:31:36 PM
Quote from: TexasTimbers on January 31, 2009, 05:32:40 PM
I like the 232 but my heart is for a 260D. They look similar to be sure. I would not pay that kind of dough for a stripped saw though. Not necessary when they can be found complete and for less. It may go for $350 you never know.

I have a one-previous owner 1947 model 16" 270D bought it complete, miter gauge, fence, two blades (carbide combination and HSS plywood) for $600 and I was able to get the "Birth Certificate" for it too from Eagle Machinery. :)

But I just love the way the 260 looks. I haven't seen a table saw more beautiful to my eye.

Dodgy you couldn't hardly go wrong owning a 232 if you buy it right. ;)



Holy crap, that 260D is a work of art.
So many trees, so little money, even less time.

Stihl 066, Husky 262, Husky 350 (warmed over), Homelite Super XL, Homelite 150A
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