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Belsaw mills

Started by bandmiller2, December 14, 2008, 02:03:07 PM

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bandmiller2

Their alot of intrest here on Belsaw mills ,many around the countryside laying fallow.Alot of us want to mill but can't afford a new hyd. bandmill.Many belsaws can be had cheap but will require alot of work,but nothing beyond what a semiclever lad can do.If I were setting up a belsaw i would look for some used steel roof trusses,their long strong and light ,mill could even be made portable.Most trusses have a slight crown but if you make several cuts on the bottom rail tap in a screwdriver and reweld you can straighten them.Their is really nothing on a belsaw you can't make or find in a hardware store. Find some staging leveling screws to put under the trusses.I'm sure many of you have some good ideas,this is what keeps life interesting. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

pasbuild

I welded my old Belsaw onto a mobile home frame, worked well
If it can't be nailed or glued then screw it

backwoods sawyer

Do you have any pictures of it set up?
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

HOGFARMER

I have a question that I need an answer for.  What would the maximum safe horsepower to use on an M-14 with a 40" blade be?  The reason I ask this is most of my tractors are over 100HP.  Was considering using an IH 1066 on it which is about 130HP.  Might try using a PTO adapter on the 1000RPM shaft and cutting engine speed back to where it would spin at 540RPM.  Don't know what the horsepower would be at this RPM, but it would sure help fuel ecconomy.  Hate to use a smaller gas tractor but all my diesels are 85 HP and up.  Thanks.
Manual LT-30

bandmiller2

I was looking through some of the online sawmill for sale sites,theirs not much difference in price between belsaws and the real american classics Frick ,corley ,chase ,lane ect.Probibly the best bang for your buck is rebuilding a handset mill.Its not for everyone,it borders on an industrial site,and you must be your own millright,but you end up with a real mill.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

bandmiller2

Hogfarmer,I think its like being too rich.If you have the shaft protection shear bolt/clutch the only downside I can see is fuel economy.As you say you can try the high speed shaft at a lower engine speed,you can also run the saw a little faster.Their isn't much differance in fuel usage between a big engine loafing along and a small engine up agenst its governor.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

BBK

Quote from: HOGFARMER on December 16, 2008, 06:59:44 AM
I have a question that I need an answer for.  What would the maximum safe horsepower to use on an M-14 with a 40" blade be?  The reason I ask this is most of my tractors are over 100HP.  Was considering using an IH 1066 on it which is about 130HP.  Might try using a PTO adapter on the 1000RPM shaft and cutting engine speed back to where it would spin at 540RPM.  Don't know what the horsepower would be at this RPM, but it would sure help fuel ecconomy.  Hate to use a smaller gas tractor but all my diesels are 85 HP and up.  Thanks.

We started powering the American #2 with a 44" & 48" with the Far IH 1086 (120hp) when the old power unit (60hp)died.
I looked into direct PTO (we're hammered at 550 rpm) but was concerned about the shear pins and over power to the mill. We made a seperate husk, driven off the pto and running the 10" flat belt we used from the old power unit.

I like the belt drive better. It somoothes out the vibrations (Babbit Bearings) and is a good shock absorber too. The belt is tensioned to slip before any damage to the mandrel and saw can occur.

The 1086 hardly ever cuts in the governer and at PTO speed ( just over ¾ throttle) is very easy on fuel.

In a 10 hr day 4 of us cutting 8 to 10 mbf it will burn anout 15 gal of diesel.
I love Farming, Logging, Sawmilling, Fishing, and Hunting.

bandmiller2

Hogfarmer,their are far more problems with underpowered mills than overpowered.I think you said you have a belsaw PTO with protection,at the belsaw feed rate I can't see a problem.Belts are a good option "V" or flat.I would try what you have.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

sgschwend

To husk or not to husk?

Which way would you build the mill?


Here is an idea I am considering for the tracks, using 3-4 highway block (2 foot wide by 4 foot long by 2.5 feet high), made at the concrete yard from leftover mix.  Set these in row, and drill and bolt 1/2 thick plate on each end.  The plate will have leveling screws and attachments for the track beams.  It would be a heavy and strong track that could be leveled using the adjustment screws.
Steve Gschwend

sjgschwend@gmail.com

bandmiller2

Steve, you can use the blocks,depends how much frost you get in the ground in the winter.If those blocks were just set on top of the ground frost would likely heave them.I would set them in the ground with several inches above ground.You have a bandmill,cut timbers to fasten to the top of the blocks to level and get hight above the ground.A little sawdust around a mill foundation in the winter is a good thing,keeps the frost from going too deep.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Jeff Lesak

Hogfarmer asks what is a safe horsepower for a Belsaw. Lets work it back to how much power does the blade need . It takes 10-15 HP per tooth in the cut. Less for a slower smalller dia.  and thinner blade. The PTO HP must also power the carriage (and anything else that comes off the mandrel). Doubleing the feed rate only needs 12% more power. So its 10 to 15HP times the number of teeth in the cut plus the other power needs of the mill that come off the shaft.
Doc Jeff

theweber

Hi to all i have been lurking for some time . i just acquired my grandfathers belsaw .  My grandfather sold it to my friend , he used it for 5 years . About 4 months ago it came back to the weber family . My friend welded it to a 38' travel trailer frame. Well it is 38' now.  It has a 6 cylinder continental red seal mounted on top of the mill . It has a 42" head saw inserted tooth blade.  As a kid i can remember my grandfather using it, but that is it . I would like to learn  all i can. Thanks  and say hello to my little friend. 


bandmiller2

Web,glad the mill came home,somehow history seems important with sawmills.Looks to be direct drive to the arbor or do you have an idler to tighten the drive belts?Judging from the feed assy. its an older belsaw,I think the older ones were built a little heavier.Keep us in the loop on your progress.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

theweber

The main drive belt has an jack shaft to take up the slack.

I have a couple questions  ,The first thing I have gathered you square the log . Then i have a 12" square cant i think . of witch i want to make  2" x 6"  . Stop me if i am wrong on this . I would saw the cant in half witch i would have 2 - 6" x 12" witch i would flip them  90 degrees . Next i would saw the 2 cant's with each pass would get 2 - 2" x 6" .

SCSawyer

Good looking mill, and what a tough old power unit you cant kill those engines, and dont for get to allow enough for saw kerf on your figure board.
Silas S. Roberts , Bluff Mtn. Timber

bandmiller2

Web, you've got the right idea seems every sawyer has a little different way.As SC sawyer says if you want full dimension you must allow for the kerf aprox.5/16".If your building a chicken house or want stuff like the depot sells just pull it over by the inch rule, will be scant.Most sawyers take a slab cut,then a board,to get a clear face flip 1/4 turn slab again.Every log is a little different you figure it out as you go,to get the max yield per log.You can take four slab cuts on a log and end up with a cant but that tends to be wastefull.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

theweber

Hi to all my mill update for the week  :-[ the starter is dead. and the repair shop wont's 175$  :-[. But on a brighter  I went to my grandfathers house to look for an old starter. He would never throw  something  like that away. To my  surprise there where two more redseal power units in the barn but no starters . So back to the starter shop i went. I also found a belsaw mandrel not far from the redseals 8) priceless parts.

bandmiller2

Web,what I do with starters is punch mark to locate ends pull it apart usally something simple brushes, bushings,est.If it smells or looks burned I turn it in to the shop for a rebuilt.You can check the commutator with a multimeter for shorts or opens and can usally clean it up with sandpaper[not emery cloth]Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

theweber

Saw up date   >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( I got me starter fixed for 100$$  sweet, and put in a newer exhaust system sweet . Today I leveled the saw with the new  trailer jacks ,and installed the blade .  I made my first pass and water started pouring from back of the power unit  . >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(  IT NEVER ENDES when I take one step forward I get knocked three saw mill links back. I am starting to think it might not be in the stars .  What am I thinking, my grandfather has two more redseals in the barn . I found  a rebuild manual online.  http://www.wisconsinmotors.com/partc/con_engines/L-Head_Overhaul.pdf . I needed General Patton with me today to get my mind right . 

timberjackpa

Web I also have a belsaw with an oliver 70  tractor to power it It has a continental 6cy engine I am in need of a head or at least valves would you be willing to part with anything?

Joe Lallande

I have looked at used junk parts for my seized Waukesha diesel and finally found a warehouse in PA that has moslty new orginal parts.  Send me a PM and I will forward the info.  Joe Lallande, Alpena, MI

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