best blade for nails

[tbook]

Been sawing reclaimed beams or should say trying to saw,Having quite a time hitting nails. Anyone know of a band blade that takes nails better than others.

[zopi]

As far as I know there isn't a design criteria for nail proofing...interesting question though..

<GRIN> I'd say have one made like a hacksaw blade...have fun sharpening it though...

I bet some of those seem to have more metal than wood.

Seriously, I'd go with a metal detector and eliminate as much iron as possible..If I had to cut
reclaimed beams...someone would have to offer me some serious cash to do so...plus buying me new blades....

[WH_Conley]

Zopi hit it, let who are sawing for buy the blades. Don't cut a deal on the price either, it takes time to change blades.

Somewhere along the line several years ago somebody sent me a "nail" blade, stellite 3/8" tooth spacing "guaranteed " to cut nails. Prabably would too, if you could spend the time to do it. Only problem is on a normal log is you can set the feed rate then go eat dinner then catch it before it get to the end of the log. ;D

[Bibbyman]

Been sawing reclaimed beams or should say trying to saw,Having quite a time hitting nails. Anyone know of a band blade that takes nails better than others.

The best nail eaters I've found is the Wood-Mizer Double Hard in .055 by 1-1/2" width.

What I'd try is - when you hit a nail (or nails) - take the blade off and find the teeth that were "buggered up".  Often there will be metal welded to these teath.  Break off the welded bugger and then touch up these teath with a fine tooth file.  Put the blade back on and see if it still cuts.  Use the blade to death and then put a new one on.

You may try using one old blade to take the first cut on each face,  then switch to a good blade if no nails were found.

[backwoods sawyer]

Like Bibbyman says use an old band and square up several logs then put on a good band and cut to size. I also like the Woodmizer double hard for nails as many times the saw does not develop a mark that is bad enough to change the saw, and they will generally still cut OK. I keep a battery powered dremil  tool handy to touch up the teeth, this some times lets me cut another nail or two.

[Captain]

Like WH said, the best blade to cut nails with is somebody else's.

Captain

[woodmills1]

I just finished two beam jobs and both customers assured me they had removed all the nails.  Here give me lotsa money for my swampland farm quick

this is what I did and will do for future beam jobs

$60 per hour including blade changes, nail pulling, and blade sharpening

I start with 4 sharp but not new blades and customer pays $88 for them

I tell customer to expect some wavy and some miscut boards

after hitting nails I try to use blade untill the wavyness is real bad or band gets pushed off the wheels or it rises or dives and won't continue

I put the offending blade on the sharpener while using the next one

any blades that wont cut after resharpening are discarded

if I hit any drywall or other metal besides nails another $22 is added to the cost

If I can't finish with 4 blades more are used at $22 each


these and other beam customers have payed one to 3 dollars a bd ft for the beams and expect around $10 per for the finished product so don't be lowballed by them