I paid how much for this???

[kb]

Well, the stihl 390 decided to go kaput.  decided that my current cutting wants required a real saw...since my stihl dealer has gone out of business, decided on the husky 385.  Didn't pay much attention at the dealer, got home and started working it.  took apart to clean and service, to discover I have a solid bar??!!  My 390 came with a roller bar, so why my 2x the price pro-grade have a solid bar?  I'm using a 24 in bar for felling and firewood cutting of oak and mesquite.  Will this hold up, or should I just chunk it now?  Any advice on making it last?

[Kevin]

Solid bars with replaceable tip

Recommended for use with long bars to reduce load on bar tip. Load is transfered to the high quality roller bearing. Frictional loss is reduced by 8-10% depending on bar length. Bars are epoxy coated to protect against scratches and corrosion. Replaceable tip is available as a spare part. Available with 3/8 inch chain pitch in lengths 18 inch to 28 inch.

[Rocky_J]

Send me the POS solid bar and I'll send you a laminated bar in return.  ;)

[Ed]

The dealer usually puts his choice of bar and chain on the saw.
Personally, I would take it back and have him swap it out.....or trade Rocky!

Ed

[Al_Smith]

 Well it could be a usage of terms here .A solid bar is one with just a hardened tip on it and no sprocket . You don't see them too often .They are normally used for cutting in real gritty work such as salvage works on dirty wood etc .They will take more abuse than a sprocket nose . Nothing wrong with them ,you just run the chain a little looser and really lay the oil to them . Of course myself being rather "old school " a hardnose doesn't bother me ,all they had back in the day . I can see however why it would be a concern to others though .

A solid bar with a replacable sprocket is another subject all together .Actually a well designed heavy duty bar .

[logwalker]

All that said...don't cut with the back of the bar much as it has to pull around the tip and creates a lot of friction. If you do that much I would opt for the roller.
Joe

[Al_Smith]

Back of the bar,maybe so maybe not ? It never seemed to matter much when they made saws that oiled the bar correctly .You might be right though on these more modern saws that are stingy on oil  . I can't comment on that myself because I've never ran a solid nose bar on a newer saw .

[kb]

This is just a solid bar, with no sprocket or replaceable tip.  I turned the oiler up on it to compensate, still have to get the chain set right.  Hopefully it will last a while.  I know a 385 is overkill for firewood, but my usage easily turns to abuse, so hopefully this will last.  thanks

[Al_Smith]

This is just a solid bar, with no sprocket or replaceable tip.  I turned the oiler up on it to compensate, still have to get the chain set right. 

Well different ten people will have ten different ideas on how to run a hardnose and argue to the ends of the world they are right weather they' ve ever even seen a hardnose bar let alone run one .

My way ,set the chain so about 1/4 of the driver is showing below the bar in the chain sag . .Now stay tuned there are nine more ideas . :D

[ENTS]

KB,

What did you do with the 390???

[sawguy21]

Are you talking a solid bar with a replaceable tip or a hard nose bar? If the latter, the dealer probably dumped old stock. We seldom see hard nose except for specialized applications. The pile drivers use them because the sprocket tips will not stand up in silty salt water.