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maunal cutting with ripping chain

Started by kelLOGg, October 11, 2008, 05:43:06 PM

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kelLOGg

Done a lot of crosscutting with chainsaws but now I need a ripping chain. The Bailey's site lists only the WoodlandPro for a ripping chain but it (according to the site) is not recommended for manual use - only with chainsaw mills. What do you guys who quarter logs use? is kickback a serious problem with a WoodlandPro ripping chain? - moreso than any other?

Thanks,
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

mtngun

The Bailey's ripping chain has a 10 degree angle, otherwise, it looks like ordinary chain to my eyes.   The 10 degree angle takes a smaller bite, produces a smoother cut, reduces the load on the saw, and cuts a little slower than normal crosscut chain. 

I have occasionally used Bailey's ripping chain manually, and didn't notice a kickback problem.   If anything, it feels smoother than normal chain, as it should.

rebocardo

> is kickback a serious problem with a WoodlandPro ripping chain? - moreso than any other?

Yes, the worse kickback I have had was using ripping chain to quarter a 48" log. I think why it was bad is because when buried deep you are likely to hit that top quadrant if you are not square. It happened so quick I was lucky to hold onto the saw, if I was using anything bigger then the Husky 365, it might have gone flying out of my hands instead of slamming my hands so hard it set the brake and numbed my hands.

John Mc

Quote from: mtngun on October 11, 2008, 09:44:53 PM
The Bailey's ripping chain has a 10 degree angle, otherwise, it looks like ordinary chain to my eyes.   The 10 degree angle takes a smaller bite, produces a smoother cut, reduces the load on the saw, and cuts a little slower than normal crosscut chain. 

I think the shape of the depth gauges/rakers are a bit different as well, which is one of the reasons it is more prone to kickback, and the kickback can be more severe when it doesn't happen. Chains designed for handheld saws generally have more of a ramped depth gauge (even those chains for handheld saws that don't have the bumper drive links).

Unfortunately, a quick look at the Baileys site didn't show good pictures of the difference. If I find where I've seen them, I'll post links.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Cut4fun


Al_Smith

 Much ado about rip chain . In my opinion it does cut smoother but also much slower .

It isn't that big of a deal to rip with good old round ground chisel chain . A little secret is attacking the log at about a 45 degree angle instead of straight accross .

It takes a little practice but you can determine about which angle works best by the chip . Too much in parrellel with the log and you pull long french fries that clog the saw .Too much at right angle and you pull dust which is slow as mollasis in January .

No matter how you do it ,it's slow .I get about a foot a minute in 18" oak using a 125 Mac  or 2100 Homelite .

Cut4fun

Al is right on that clogging bit. I even clogged a 084 up with long noodles in some cherry the other day.
But I was just laying the 30" bar along the middle and just letting it eat right through the middle making half slabs.

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