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357xp bar/chain combo

Started by John Mc, October 02, 2008, 01:23:08 PM

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John Mc

Just got my 357xp back from the shop. New 16" bar, 3/8" pitch chain, 7T. I had him give it the once over and tune it while it was in. He didn't find any problems.

I did wonder about one thing. The max recommended engine RPM is 14,000. He mentioned that he tuned the saw for lower RPMs than that (I think he said 12,??? - can't remember the exact number).  I assume he set the high speed mixture richer to slow it down like this. What would be the reason for that? Is he just afraid I'll burn it up running at something closer to 14,000? It seems like I'm giving up some of the capability of the saw with it tuned like this. However, if that will give longer life, I'll live with it. I'm used to a Jonsered 2152, so even de-tuned, this 357xp should be a lot quicker.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

SawTroll

Quote from: John Mc on October 08, 2008, 10:33:22 PM
Just got my 357xp back from the shop. New 16" bar, 3/8" pitch chain, 7T. I had him give it the once over and tune it while it was in. He didn't find any problems.

I did wonder about one thing. The max recommended engine RPM is 14,000. He mentioned that he tuned the saw for lower RPMs than that (I think he said 12,??? - can't remember the exact number).  I assume he set the high speed mixture richer to slow it down like this. What would be the reason for that? Is he just afraid I'll burn it up running at something closer to 14,000? It seems like I'm giving up some of the capability of the saw with it tuned like this. However, if that will give longer life, I'll live with it. I'm used to a Jonsered 2152, so even de-tuned, this 357xp should be a lot quicker.

John Mc

I guess the saw is run in, as it needed a new bar - no good reason to set it much below 14000rpm then.......
Information collector.

Ed

What troll said. Kick it up to 14000 and let it rip!
A saw is designed for max power and efficiency at the rated rpm, IMO it's harder on it to run it slow.

Ed

John Mc

Yes, it's a 2005 model by the serial number. The chain that came with it had been ground down to the point where the teeth were not much more than triangles, so I'm guessing it's well run in. (Though appears in good shape.)

I haven't really developed the "ear" for setting the mixture without a tach yet. Is this something that can be set safely without a tach by someone more experienced than I am, or do I need to bring it back in? If it can be done safely without the tach, I think I need to see and hear it done a time or two before trying it on my own. Maybe I'm just being too cautious, but I'm not happy at the thought of major repair bills, or buying a new one if I screw things up badly.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Ed

Good info here.... http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm

There is a .wav file about halfway down the page that you can listen to.

I'm guessing your saw has limiters on the carb screws, you can lean it up a little, but it will have to be adjusted by someone with the proper tools to remove the limiters.

Cutting off the limiter stops is also an option.................. :-X :-X :D ;)

Ed

John Mc

Trimming the limiters on my 2152 wasn't too tough. I didn't remove them, just trimmed them a bit so I could richen it up a bit after swapping to a non-cat muffler. I had that one checked at the shop after I adjusted the mixture... he said I got it pretty close.

Thanks for the Madsens link. I had seen that somewhere before, but lost it. That's a handy link to have for saw tuning rookies like me. Most of my efforts over the past 5 years or so have been focused on learning to operate it and fell trees safely. I did manage to learn how to sharpen it pretty well (at least with the round file... I'm not ready to mess with square ground), and do basic bar maintenance. So far, most of the tuning I've left to the shop.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

Maybe I just need to get off my butt, buy a tach, and learn how to do it right.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Cut4fun

If tuning by ear, turn to  4 stroke burble then turn to where it just clears up firewood setting IMO.

Tack set that sucker on 14k and smile. Just keep a eye on the plug, to rich is better then to lean cutting firewood with continuous cuts.

Amicks has a good tach and .5 sec fast. The new stihl ones are to slow 1.5 sec refresh rates. If you can find a stihl edt-5 grab it no longer made. The cheapie $24 tachs have a refresh rate even slower at 2.5 sec. They work but scare me.

Get you a .5 sec refresh rate take like this. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/DTI_2_Cycle_Two_Stroke_Tachometer_Tach_p/dti%20tech-tach%20tt-20k%20tach.htm

John Mc

Thanks for the link, Cut4Fun. I ordered one. I figured it's about time I learned how to use one, and it may get some use among the landowner cooperative I'm involved with.

Do you set the RPMs with the bar and chain attached, or just the powerhead alone? I've always been told to avoid revving up the chainsaw without a bar and chain installed. But I thought I saw somewhere that the specs for max recommended RPM are with nothing on the powerhead.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

sawguy21

Best to run it with the bar and chain attached as in real world conditions. There is minimal drag at no load with them on.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Cut4fun


John Mc

Thanks for all the tips, guys. I just might get a chance to play work with it this weekend.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

RSteiner

I have the older 257 with a 16" bar and the 3/8 pitch chain on mine.  Even after 11 years of use the saw still cuts like a champ. 

Randy
Randy

John Mc

I got to use the saw today. It's a little shorter on power than I expected. I'm hoping that this is due to it being tuned for about 12,500 RPM rather than 14,000. I haven't retuned it yet... figured I'd wait for the tach to show up in the mail first, rather than trusting my ear. It also has a factory-new Husqvarna 3/8 chisel chain (I assume that's just a re-badged Oregon chain?). Have people found the sharpening job when new out of the box to be pretty good on these chains, or can you usually do a better job yourself? I've gotten pretty good at hand sharpening with a file holder, and the appropriate tool for checking the depth gauges, but haven't checked this on e over closely yet.

I'm still wondering about the black rubber hose that comes out where you'd expect the compression release button to be. The hose attaches back to to the saw down lower. I was told that this is an automatic compression release -- no need to press the button first. It just seems like something else to cause troubles. Anyone know how reliable they are? I'm guessing they had problems, since the new saws all have the buttons. If what I have is a problem, is there much involved in converting to the button-style compression release?

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Stephen Alford

Hi John, the problem I had with that hose, it got a hole worn in it from rubbing on the motor. When it happened the sound changed slightly and when I finished the twitch the saw was toast. Sucked dirt directly into the engine.  Went back to the old style on the next saw.  ::) Stephen
logon

Urbicide

You can change out the automatic de-comp to a manual one. If your dealer can not help you out then call Bailey's. They are good folks.

SawTroll

Quote from: John Mc on October 14, 2008, 02:27:44 PM
It also has a factory-new Husqvarna 3/8 chisel chain (I assume that's just a re-badged Oregon chain?). Have people found the sharpening job when new out of the box to be pretty good on these chains, or can you usually do a better job yourself? I've gotten pretty good at hand sharpening with a file holder, and the appropriate tool for checking the depth gauges, but haven't checked this on e over closely yet.

It is rebadged Oregon, and they usually are pretty sharp out of the box - a stroke or two with a file to clean up transport damage isn't out of line though.

Some times the rakers are too high - check with a raker guide!
Information collector.

John Mc

You were right, SawTroll. The rakers were a bit high. I took them down using the gauge, and it helped. The cutting teeth weren't too bad (I'd only made a few cuts since new, and that was in clean wood). I touched them up anyway, and it made quite a difference.

The tach I ordered is on back-order, so I still haven't retuned it to get the RPMs up. That should help a bit too.

Urbicide... I'll look into the manual de-comp you mentioned. They're not too expensive, IIRC. I just may swap it out. I don't want to run into the problem Stephen had.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Cut4fun

Remember to seal and plug that extra hole left on the side of Cly good. $13 for a manual de-comp button.  Mine was switched over and it was a 04 and I bought it in 06 like new.  I didn't realize it was till the cylinder was off the other day doing a repair.


I had some brand new Oregon I was using the other day with a 084. The raker's were so high it was just riding on the wood and I had to push to get it to cut. I put the 025 raker guide on it and all is well and she feeds like it was suppose to. I bet the raker's were near 020 from the factory on this loop.

Cut4fun

John Mc,  UP DATE  on the plastic clamp and getting the warranty covered new one for replacement.

It took over a year to find the freaking air leak I knew it had, turned out the plastic clamp on my 357 was leaking and why it wasn't running up to par for awhile now, which I knew before the spring gtg when it also was spraying fuel during my cut because a hole in the line decided to show up that day (It was still good enough to beat the closest other racer with a 361 bragging how he almost beat my injured and not running right 357  ).

A friend happen to have a extra old style plastic intake for the saw laying around and installed it and wallah, no more leak. Thanks.

Anyhow you have to take the saw with serial number and the month and year you purchased it  . No receipt was needed thank goodness.

They ordered me a complete updated intake for the 357 FREE of charge and even gave me the old part back. I think me and this new dealer in my area is going to get along. I bought stuff I didn't need because he was so helpful and got right on the phone with husqvarna rep.

John Mc

Cut4Fun -

Thanks for keeping me posted.

You're having better luck than I am. I took my Jonsered 2152 to my local dealer for a carb rebuild. I noticed I had the plastic clamp and asked him about replacing it. Unfortunately, it appears mine is not covered under the recall/service bulletin. It seems some of the saws in my year were made with, and some without the plastic clamp. But according to my dealer, none of my model year are covered. He did a pressure check, and mine is not leaking (yet). I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

My 357 has the plastic clamp as well. The Husky dealer in my area didn't seem to know what I was talking about with the clamp problems. It might be time for me to find a new dealer? I'm assuming since I bought this one used, that I'm not going to get any kind of warranty coverage on it.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

Quote from: Cut4fun on October 16, 2008, 02:24:51 PM
Remember to seal and plug that extra hole left on the side of Cly good. $13 for a manual de-comp button.  Mine was switched over and it was a 04 and I bought it in 06 like new.  I didn't realize it was till the cylinder was off the other day doing a repair.

I haven't poked around that hose yet. I figured I'd wait until the de-comp valve I ordered shows up. What do you use to seal that extra hole? I assume it's threaded, isn't it?

QuoteI had some brand new Oregon I was using the other day with a 084. The raker's were so high it was just riding on the wood and I had to push to get it to cut. I put the 025 raker guide on it and all is well and she feeds like it was suppose to. I bet the raker's were near 020 from the factory on this loop.

My rakers were probably close to .020 as well. Seems odd, but I guess if they are going to err, they'd rather be off in that direction than take them down too far.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Cut4fun

I took a copy of the post I made for the dealer to see. He wanted to keep a copy for his files and called the husky rep. I will post again and you can copy it for them. It has the saws listed and serial numbers affected listed in it. It is NO COST to the dealers it is all covered by husky. The rep even said they are paying for top end rebuilds that come back to  the leaky intake seal. Good Luck.

Cut4fun

Mine had a thread small bolt with red permatex sealer used.

Repost of plastic intake clamp to show your dealer. Print and take with you.

Service Bulletin for 357XP, 359, 353, 346XP
This service bulletin is not new. I thought that there might be some out there who were not aware of it so here it is. If your saw has a black plastic clamp around the intake right next to the cylinder it is applicable to it. If the clamp is of steel construction then you should be ok.

B0600023
SERVICE

*537 43 88-01*
*compl 537 25 13-02
English 1 (1)

SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP,
Partition wall and clamp for intake system,
2006-03

The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall.

The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.
The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.

Full replaceability prevails.
Introduced from serial number:
357XP 061100201
359 061100001
353 061100001
346XP 061100001

New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark
537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part
537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part

Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

John Mc

Thanks Cut4Fun. I had that service bulletin from your previous post. This time, I'll bring it with me to the dealer. I assume the 06 in the serial numbers you listed is the model year. So it would be saws made before this that had the problem (mine is an 05).

I'd like to get this replaced on both my Jonsered 2152 and my Husky 357. Hopefully I'll get some help from my dealer on this (I did buy a brush saw and two chainsaws from him, though the 357 I bought used from an individual).

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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