Honey Locust looking a little under the weather...

[Amy46268]

First post...just found this forum after looking for some advice.  Nice site!

My question:  I have a very large Honey Locust tree in my front yard that is almost 20 years old.  Over the past couple years, I've noticed some of the branches are not producing leaves, and it's overall not as full as I remember it to be. 

I'm looking for any tips on general care, or signs of diseases that I should look for.  There is a light-greenish tint on parts of the bark.

I'd really hate to loose this guy, as it provides the majority of shade for my home. 

Thanks in advance!

[Riles]

Welcome to the forum Amy. We need a little more info, please. Where are you located? A tree planted outside it's native range may have more problems. Are you sure it's a honey locust? They aren't known for their shade and "Very large" and "20 years old" is a little bit of a mismatch. Young trees tend to be vigorous trees, and just like people, the older they get, the more susceptible to disease they become.

http://www.cnr.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=30

Yard trees can get abused unintentionally. String trimmers are notorious for killing yard trees with their quick little girdling action at the base of the trunk. And weed & feed is great for the grass, usually bad for the tree.

Leaves are great indicators of tree health. Are they anything other than their normal color? Spots, curling, fading, holes, are all signs of insects or disease. Don't panic though, leaf diseases don't mean alot for trees that dump them every year.

Branch dieback is an indicator of canker (a dead spot on the branch or main trunk). Check for sunken, swollen or distorted bark. Dead areas that go all the way around will kill everything above the dead area.

Are there any other trees nearby that show the same signs?

The best advice for helping your tree is to keep it vigorous. Prune the dead branches in the spring, fertilize and water the appropriate amounts and hope for the best.

[Amy46268]

Thanks for the reply!  I'm in central Indiana...  It definitely looks like a honey locust with the tiny leaves and long pods, but it is a best guess for me.  I'm no pro!  I'll try to get some pics of it.  The leaves look ok, but I'll take a closer look when I get home. 

I didn't notice any trimmer damage at the bottom.  We did prune it a bit last summer, and again a little this spring.  Maybe we stressed it out?

I also noticed some spots where it was leaking sap--NOT where it was pruned though, but in the main part of the trunk, seemingly random.  Is there something I could do to help those areas?

Any advice on fertilizer, if that is indeed the tree I have? 

Thanks again!

[Riles]

The textbook answer for fertilizer is to have your soil tested and find out what's missing. The state of NC does it free for landowners, perhaps Indiana does the same. Best to contact your county extension agent, who would also be an excellent resource to see your tree in person and make recommendations. Without soil testing, a basic 10-10-10 applied according to the directions on the package would be a good starting point. It's better to under fertilize than over fertilize.

Pruning would not cause the symptoms you're describing. Typically, a tree's reaction to improper pruning is to grow more branches and leaves.

Leaking sap can be caused by a couple of things. Woodpeckers going after insects can punch a lot of holes, although the insects are generally in areas of decay in the tree--areas less likely to leak sap. Check the tree for small holes that might be caused by insects or birds boring through the outer bark.

Another possibility is a bacterial infection, which is more likely than birds and bugs, although bacteria still need a way into the tree. Sometimes bacterial infections smell, so give your neighbors something to talk about and sniff your tree (really!).

Lastly, mulch is a wonderful thing. It moderates soil temperature, retains moisture, aerates the soil, makes it easier for water to move into the soil, and keeps the nasty yard tools away from the trunk.

If you're really committed to saving a dying tree, you might try contacting a certified arborist. The good ones have the tools and knowledge to treat things like infections that would have us foresters and sawyers saying "Time to make some lumber."  Good luck.

[urbanlumberinc]

Thyronectria Canker - I'd bet the farm on it