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Are you a bar flipper?

Started by Piston, September 19, 2008, 08:55:57 PM

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Max sawdust

This tip greasing discussion got me thinking  :-[
I was a non greaser then a greaser and now I am back to a non greaser :D  My greasing period was short, maybe a year or so. 

Now that I think about it the only time I ever had bars with roller bearing seizure with were one's I greased :o  I would grease once a day at best but most likely a couple times a week. 

On the subject of flipping, yes I am a flipper, and yes I have had people comment that my bar is upside down :-\  The timing for flipping is not a science for me, when a chain is off I inspect the bar, maybe touch up rough edges with a file and flip the best side down..

max

True Timbers
Cedar Products-Log & Timber Frame Building-Milling-Positive Impact Forestscaping-Cut to Order Lumber

Meadows Miller

Gday

The only sprocket failure Ive had was when I was log building with Dad Its hard on bar sprockets because you are cutting with the tip of the bar alot . With the people noticing that the bars upsidedown Ive never  had Anyone notice . it must be because the bar dose'nt have any paint left on it after the first week or two  ;) :D :D ;D 8)

Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

SawTroll

Quote from: Rocky_J on September 22, 2008, 09:50:08 PM
Not like me, I think greasing bar tips creates more problems than it solves. The need for grease is non existant and the grease acts like a dirt magnet. you grease to 'protect' the bearings but you're loving them to death by creating an environment where harmful grit sticks to the bearings.

Sure, you can grease the tips religiously and not have problems as long as you never forget to do it. But if you never start then you never need to grease them. Manufacturers like Stihl figured this out 10-20 years ago when they phased out grease holes in the tips of their pro bars.

Yes!     :)

...and I usually flip the bar after each use, as part of routine maintenanse. I know that is not nessessary, but when the chain is off anyway....................
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SawTroll

Quote from: Piston on September 22, 2008, 10:37:11 PM
Quote from: Rocky_J on September 22, 2008, 09:50:08 PM
Manufacturers like Stihl figured this out 10-20 years ago when they phased out grease holes in the tips of their pro bars.

Does this mean that the MS361 doesn't have grease holes in the bar it comes with?   ....

It does, unless it comes with one of the rebadged Oregon bars, originally meant for the Canadian market.
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SawTroll

Quote from: beenthere on September 22, 2008, 11:43:20 PM
Piston
My MS361 has the roller nose bar, no grease holes.

Not roller nose, but sprocket nose - it is not the same thing!
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beenthere

Quote from: SawTroll on September 23, 2008, 09:07:59 AM
Quote from: beenthere on September 22, 2008, 11:43:20 PM
Piston
My MS361 has the roller nose bar, no grease holes.

Not roller nose, but sprocket nose - it is not the same thing!

Thanks...didn't know there was a difference. Mine is with the 'teeth' and carries the chain around the nose of the bar.  You have me curious now, as to what the roller (non-sprocket) nose is like.  ::) ::) ::) ???
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Cut4fun

Not saying you were calling bars cheap (you took that wrong). I just know my cheaper non replaceable tipped bars have grease oils, my GB pro tops, Oregon powermatch and the cheaper non replaceable tipped oregon ones, sanvik, poulan,Windsor speed tips, older stihl bars have grease holes too. I only grease when the bar is brand new if provided. Only ones I have with no hole is the newer stihl bars.

pic of a roller that 4paws posted.



SawTroll

Quote from: beenthere on September 23, 2008, 10:29:35 AM
Quote from: SawTroll on September 23, 2008, 09:07:59 AM
Quote from: beenthere on September 22, 2008, 11:43:20 PM
Piston
My MS361 has the roller nose bar, no grease holes.

Not roller nose, but sprocket nose - it is not the same thing!

Thanks...didn't know there was a difference. Mine is with the 'teeth' and carries the chain around the nose of the bar.  You have me curious now, as to what the roller (non-sprocket) nose is like.  ::) ::) ::) ???

See cut's post above - the roller nose don't have a sprocket, but rather a rolling nose with a groove for the chain.

They are quite hard to find today, and are mostly used for saw racing because they offer less friction.
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Bobcat_pa

Every time I put on a new chain:   I flip the bar,  clean the bar grove out, and make sure the bar oil hole is open.   Plus chains are kept sharp and properly filed (same left & right cutter lenght).   This all adds up to excellent bar life.     

I have been a greaser, but going to stop.   I think Rocky is correct in that there is enough bar oil moving around to keep the nose lubed and cleaned.   

dannymbrown

I have never flipped and have always notices a excessive wear on the bottom side of the bar. After reading all the experts, I most certainly will start flipping after the next sharpening.

Thanks for all the great info!!

Bustech

I have to agree that bar flipping is a great way to get the most milage out of your bar as well as a good dressing now and then when it's needed. One tidbit we need to keep in mind is the fact that there are anti-kickback bars out there that have a curved lower portion on the tip of the bar. These bars are usually found on smaller Poulan/Craftsman type saws but they are out there. This type of bar should not be flipped because of it's configuration because it will defeat the purpose that it was intended and just really not recommended.

Just my two cents.....
Wisdom is knowing what to do next; skill is knowing how to do it, and virtue is doing it.

ely

i flip my bar when i put a new chain on,and i also change the drive sprocket then too. i always clean the bar up really well to get the groove clean and if it needs truing up i dress the bar also. i used to grease the tip on my sprocket tip bars each time i filled the tank. then i had the lady at the saw shop tell me the same thing you guys are saying, dont ever grease them any more. and i have never had one break down either way.
i take that back i did have one bar that had a replacable tip that was riveted in place, it was a greaser. it blew up one day and i riveted a new spocket tip in place and used it for ever. probably still on the wall in the shop now. weird name like sandvik or something.

anyhow, this place is the best place on the face of the earth to get info on anything that you need to know. 8)

beenthere

Bustech
Would these banana bars be made to only bolt on one way...??
I'd think so,  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

isawlogs


I have been flipping the bar for as long as I have been sawing , I do it cause dad told me to , never questioned the why !!!!

beenthere , those bars where never ment to be flipped , nor where they ever made to be used more then ocasionaly . ( homeowner saw ) I had one with a Craftman one hander a long time ago .
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

Cut4fun

2 post were made and cant figure out how to delete this one

Cut4fun

That would be those Hognose bars i was talking about in the first few post in this thread. Usually go on the little top handle saws. A041 mount.


Piston

Quote from: ely on September 26, 2008, 04:24:54 PM
anyhow, this place is the best place on the face of the earth to get info on anything that you need to know. 8)
DanG Right!

when you guys "dress up" your bar, does that just mean you run a flat file over the edges of it to smooth out the burs?  and clean out the inside of the bar, with a compressor or brush or something?
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

tyb525

I take a really small screwdriver or something small like that to scrape out any dirt that gets in the rails.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Rocky_J

A putty knife works well. I've also used a tine broken off a leaf rake as a tool to scrape out the guide bar. But nothing works as well as following up one of these tools with a good blast from an air nozzle connected to an air compressor. The scraper tool can bust up baked on crud, but the air nozzle gets rid of all of the crud residue (leaving behind a slight oily film which prevents rust).

And Piston- Yes, dressing the bar consists of a good cleaning followed by filing off any wear lip and an inspection to make sure the bar is square and straight. Look closely to see the wear and understand why it's worn. Once you can identify the wear, then you can identify the proper course of action to address that wear.

Meadows Miller

Gday

I clean the bar with either air the back end of the hand file or the flat head on the chainsaw spanner but I usually use a combination of them toget it nice an clean
A good clean rag comes in handy to
Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Al_Smith

 A bench mounted belt sander works excellant for deburring and trueing  a bar .

SawTroll

Quote from: beenthere on September 26, 2008, 05:34:54 PM
Bustech
Would these banana bars be made to only bolt on one way...??
I'd think so,  :)

Hopefully - or  smiley_eek_dropjaw smiley_eek_dropjaw
Information collector.

SawTroll

Quote from: Rocky_J on September 26, 2008, 10:26:30 PM
A putty knife works well. I've also used a tine broken off a leaf rake as a tool to scrape out the guide bar. But nothing works as well as following up one of these tools with a good blast from an air nozzle connected to an air compressor. The scraper tool can bust up baked on crud, but the air nozzle gets rid of all of the crud residue (leaving behind a slight oily film which prevents rust).

And Piston- Yes, dressing the bar consists of a good cleaning followed by filing off any wear lip and an inspection to make sure the bar is square and straight. Look closely to see the wear and understand why it's worn. Once you can identify the wear, then you can identify the proper course of action to address that wear.

Very well put!    :)
Information collector.

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