Need splitter for ripping unisaw

Brad_bb · September 08, 2008, 12:27:49 PM

Well I got my new think kerf rip blade installed on my unisaw, but I think I really need a splitter before I start ripping oak. The 1953 unisaw came with a blade guard that I guess has sort of a built in splitter. It is thinner than the blade though so I'm not sure that it actually works well. I think a splitter should be at least as wide as the kerf if not slighly more. I am ripping withough the blade guard installed. Is there a splitter made for the unisaw in this situation, preferably something that comes close to the blade like the one on a saw stop? I could use the blade guard mounting bracket/splitter as a template to make a new one, but it wouldn't be easy and I'd rather just buy one.
I was looking in the Hartville tool catalog and saw something called an MJ splitter for use with a zero clearance insert. Is that my only choice or is there something made for a unisaw?
Thanks, Brad

Brad_bb · September 08, 2008, 12:44:40 PM

I just did a quick google search for unisaw splitter. I saw two different splitter products that range from $150 to $250. I don't want to spend that much.
I also saw a website of unisaw parts called sawcenter.com/unisawparts.htm
On there they have a delta splitter but it says that it's .070 thick. So how does that help with splitting? Is there something wrong with my thinking that the splitter needs to be at least as thick as your kerf or slightly thicker to keep the cut stock from pinching back on the blade?
One thing I could possibly do is use my exisitng blade guard bracket and add something to it to make it thicker (on the outside) to make it more effective. I guess I need some better understanding here. Anyone?

Larry · September 08, 2008, 01:30:07 PM

I just walked into the shop and measured my splitter...its .073 thick. Works fine with thin kerf blades on my Unisaw...and even with full kerf blades.

I often wondered about the same question myself...the splitter is 9" long and I think the length may help it work.

You sometimes can find the stock splitters on eBay cheaper than going to the sawcenter. The splitter off a standard Delta contractor saw will fit a Uni...and vice versa. I usually modify them by throwing away the plastic guard along with the anti-kickback pawls. I add a wooden hinge thingy on the splitter to act similar to the plastic guard....none of my modifications are OSHA approved.

;D

Iffen I remember right you can get the MJ splitter with two different thickness tabs...one for thin kerf and full kerf.

It's pretty easy to make a zero clearance throat plate and glue a little tab of wood in the slot the exact thickness of the kerf. Low tech and best of all cheap. I usually make maybe 10 throat plates at a time but don't but a blade through them until needed. Takes several different sizes when you mount a dado blade.

Brad_bb · September 08, 2008, 02:30:51 PM

You need so many inserts for different dado setups?? I only have two stock inserts. This is my first table saw and I've had it about a year now so I am still learning.

I'm still hoping someone will chime in on the theory of the splitter width. If I have a splitter that is .070 and a blade that is .125, wouldn't the wood collapse back in on the back of the blade? Don't I need asplitter at least as thick as the kerf? I need to know if my assumption is right or wrong. Thanks,
Brad

low_48 · September 08, 2008, 02:58:16 PM

I bought one of these but don't have it installed yet. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5067&mode=details#tabs
They have a kit for "full size" and thin kerf. I've seen the same thing done with an 1/8" dowel drilled into a zero clearance insert about an inch from the back of the saw slot. I think the splitter should be the same width as the blade. The original guard had a vertical piece of steel, but I think that was to keep you from bringing the stock into contact with the back of the blade more than keeping the kerf held open. It's my experience that you can get a more severe kickback from rotating the stock into the back of the blade, after the cut is completed, compared to getting the stock pinched. Pinched stock will more than likely stall the motor. Rotating into the back of the blade will lift the stock and propel it like a missle. I've seen stock stuck between the fence and the blade shoot back through plywood leaned against the wall. It started with friction, but once a tooth comes up through the table and gets it, LOOK OUT!!!! Rotating stock against the blade when you have fed it through is a major cause of lost fingers. Your hand will stay on top of the stock and you will watch your fingers leave your hand before your brain has time to react. A woodworker in a local town did just that. He said he watched a finger fly over his head before he knew what happened. He lost most of three fingers in that rotation/kick back accident.

Kcwoodbutcher · September 08, 2008, 03:24:49 PM

I've got a merlin splitter on my uni. I think I got it on sale at woodcraft for about $40. It is made for thin kerf blades but works fine on regular kerf. I like it because it pops out real easy when you don't need it.

Brad_bb · September 08, 2008, 06:05:52 PM

I'm not seeing the the merlin on woodcraft...

Kcwoodbutcher · September 08, 2008, 09:35:16 PM

Looked at my catalog and I don't see it either. Must have been a clearance sale. I've seen them on Ebay as cheap as $25. Google it, somebody has to sell it. Regular price was about $75.00, I don't think it's worth that much.

Kcwoodbutcher · September 08, 2008, 09:59:17 PM

I googled it and found one at Northwest powertools for a C note. Too pricey for what it is if you ask me, but I found it somewhere else for $150

Brad_bb · September 09, 2008, 11:05:05 AM

It sounds like my best bet is to use my original delta blade guard bracket and remove the arm and sheild and maybe the dogs, maybe not, but modify the splitter part of the bracket to be wider and I'd be in business. I've just got to figure out how to do it with something that thin. It's .070 now and my thin kerf blade is .094. I wonder If a tape would work?

beenthere · September 09, 2008, 01:34:18 PM

I'd try the .070 and see how it works for you. I think it will work, and even be better than having the splitter the same thickness as the kerf. Getting a project hung up on the splitter while making a cut isn't fun, IMO.

I primarily like the splitter for keeping the wood from getting hung up on the teeth on the back side of the saw. If there is some stress in the wood, it will want to spring over towards the saw blade.

I think tape will just wear off and be sticky.

Just some thoughts to ponder.

HOOF-ER · September 09, 2008, 08:57:34 PM

Brad , you might consider a riving knife. I have not researched one , but I like that they go up and down with the blade. Preventing kickback is a good deal. I have sawed without either all my life. 3 major kickbacks in all the years lucky I guess nothing serious just one large bruise.

Brad_bb · September 10, 2008, 09:50:06 AM

It I knew of one for the unisaw I'd be going for it. I like the one I've seen on the SAW STOP cabinet saw. They call it a european style. It looks like a shark fin.