need advise on chainsaw purchase

peterc38 · September 05, 2008, 07:34:23 AM

Hi,

I'm looking for advice on purchasing a chainsaw. I don't really know that much about what makes a good saw, but I have been lurking in here and picked up a few things. My use would primarily be for cutting firewood, estimate is about 10-16 cords of log length per year. I also have about 7 acres, half of which is wooded so I will occasionally be cutting some trees for firewood and also clearing out some poplar in some areas so that younger hardwood that is present can grow in. Also, I have a few larger white pine to take down at some point but there is no rush on this.

My feeling is a pro saw of medium size would be the best fit for me. I don't need top of the line, but I don't want box store junk that is going to be unreliable and not last. Dealers close to me are Dolmar, Stihl and Husky. I'm intrigued by what people are saying about the Dolmar 5100S. I called the dealer close to me and he sells this saw for $480.

I also went to a Stihl dealer. After I told him what I wanted to do with it, he originally mentioned the MS260 and then the MS361 @ $500 and $600 respectively. I was impressed with these saws as well as the aforementioned Dolmar. He also mentioned the MS441 but I think that is more than I need and is out of my price range, which is $600 tops and hopefully less.

I plan on visiting a Husky dealer as well, maybe this weekend. Can anyone recommend comparable models in the Husky line? Also, what do you think about the other saws I mentioned for the uses I described? I'd appreciate any input from the Forestry Forum saw Gurus, thanks.

Dan_Shade · September 05, 2008, 08:41:58 AM

i'm a stihl guy, but mainly because I have a local dealer that is pretty good.

how big are your normal trees?

I have a 260, and I like it, it's small and light. i take it with my when I go out with my sawmill. sometimes I wish that I had bought a 361, though for more power.

isawlogs · September 05, 2008, 09:37:21 AM

I know nothing of the dolmar saws , other then what I read here . They seam to be getting good reviews here , like I said I dont know . I do own a few Stihls and a few Huskys . Of those you mention , the MS361 without blinking .

You will not regret working with this saw . Get one of the Arctic version in case you have a BIL that wants to help . ;D

TexasTimbers · September 05, 2008, 10:53:27 AM

I have a 5100S and love it, but would not suggest it for your stated purposes. You need a saw you can fell, limb, buck, and cut firewood. This is very unusual for me to suggest a saw I have never even held in my hands, but I would go with the MS361. The only two saws I have never read one single knock on - and I have read hundreds of threads/reviews/seen videos/ on 3 different forums - are the 372XP and the MS361. Nary a sour word on either saw anywhere to be found as far as I know. That's extremely rare in any category of anything.

IMO it's the perfect size saw for what you describe as your intended use. I would get two bars for it though. Others can give a more informed opinion but I think I'd have a 24" bar felling/bucking and a 18" bar for firewood. I have a 372XP also, my favorite saw, but it would be too much saw for limbing and firewood. The 5100S is a little on the light side for felling medium size trees, unless it would be a rare thing. I mean, of course you can fell with any saw, technically speaking.

Don't even consider a 441 for your purposes.

My next saw will be a 346XP or a MS361 . . . . probably the 361 since the 5100S I have is only a hair less capable than a 346, if at all . . . . .

Quote from: isawlogs on September 05, 2008, 09:37:21 AMOf those you mention , the MS361 without blinking . . . . Get one of the Arctic version in case you have a BIL that wants to help . ;D

If you do have a BIL, you should surely take a page from the Marcel School of Chainsaw-Loaning Techniques and Strategies. :D

Quote from: isawlogs on August 22, 2008, 10:04:14 PM
I have its ancester , the 036 in the Arctic version . When you flip the switch for the heated handles and not tell your BIL about it ;D , He was always taking my saw not that he does not have one , but I guess using mine saved his chain : Anyways , one time I got sortof fed up and through the switch on and not say anything about it and let um go . :D Well it was in july and hot out , he kept telling me something was wrong with the saw and handing it to me , I would take it flip the switch to off , run it some and give it back to him with the switch on .... Well long story short , he dont take my saw no more , he cant handle the heat from that saw . :D :D

jokers · September 05, 2008, 01:48:08 PM

There`s no dust on the 5100s but it might be a little small for a "do everything" saw. I`d lean to the 361 or the 357xp Husky as a minimum.

SawTroll · September 05, 2008, 08:02:10 PM

Quote from: jokers on September 05, 2008, 01:48:08 PM
There`s no dust on the 5100s but it might be a little small for a "do everything" saw. I`d lean to the 361 or the 357xp Husky as a minimum.

My thoughts as well - over here the MS361 is the obvious choise (they are a tad different from the US ones - porting and muffler)....... 8) 8)

In the smaller class, I prefere the NE346xp over the 5100S - the MS260 isn't anywhere close - but as you said, all those are probably a bit small in this scenario.

Rocky_J · September 05, 2008, 08:19:37 PM

I agree with SawTroll. I don't own a saw in that size, but if I did it would be the Stihl 361. This is Stihl's best new model of the last couple years and has set a new standard in it's weight class. If you go smaller then I like the Husky 346xp and if you go larger then I like the Husky 372xp. But Stihl now owns the 4 cube class. The Husky 357xp is a good, solid saw but it's not as good as the new 361.

Just a side note- the Stihls of late seem to be mighty stingy on the oiler output. If this becomes a problem with your new 361 then there is an easy solution. I've heard the 460 oiler will fit on the 361 and give you a big boost in oil output.

SawTroll · September 05, 2008, 08:28:56 PM

Quote from: Rocky_J on September 05, 2008, 08:19:37 PM
:::::
Just a side note- the Stihls of late seem to be mighty stingy on the oiler output. If this becomes a problem with your new 361 then there is an easy solution. I've heard the 460 oiler will fit on the 361 and give you a big boost in oil output.

Right, but not the ordinary 460 oiler, but the one that comes with the full wrap version.

No need for it with my bars though (max 18").

peterc38 · September 05, 2008, 08:40:47 PM

Thanks for all the responses so far. I'm leaning towards the Stihl MS361. I can get it for $590 w/ 18" bar, no tax next door in New Hampshire. Does this seem like a good price? Would 18" be the best all around bar size, especially for cutting firewood? The trees I would be cutting are not huge. Some of the oak is maybe 18-20" in diameter but I don't have many that size. Some of the pine I want to cut is larger in diameter, probably up to 36" but I probably only have a dozen of them and I am in no rush to cut them. Also, is it worth upgrading to the model that has the toolless quick chain adjuster (MS361 C-B) or the model with the second manually activated brake (MS 361 C-Q)?

jokers · September 05, 2008, 08:53:15 PM

Quote from: Rocky_J on September 05, 2008, 08:19:37 PM
I agree with SawTroll. I don't own a saw in that size, but if I did it would be the Stihl 361. This is Stihl's best new model of the last couple years and has set a new standard in it's weight class. If you go smaller then I like the Husky 346xp and if you go larger then I like the Husky 372xp. But Stihl now owns the 4 cube class. The Husky 357xp is a good, solid saw but it's not as good as the new 361.

Hey Rocky,

I like the way the 361 feels in my hands a wee bit better than the 357xp or the 359 but what makes you say that it`s a better saw than the 357, and by extension the 359? BTW, the Huskies have a more generous oiler right out of the box.

Rocky_J · September 05, 2008, 09:11:43 PM

Russ, Of all the saw size classes, this is the one with which I have the least experience. But I have run a couple of each and was relatively impressed with the two 361s I've tried out in the last 6 months. I think the Husky 357xp was very competitive with the old Stihl 360 but the 361 has raised the bar.

peterc38 · September 05, 2008, 09:18:31 PM

The dealer I went to today sells both Stihl and Husky (not sure how common that is). The 357 XP was priced $130 higher than the MS 361 ($720 vs. $590). Since the upper limit of my budget is about $600, that took it out of the running for me.

jokers · September 05, 2008, 09:56:54 PM

Quote from: Rocky_J on September 05, 2008, 09:11:43 PM
Russ, Of all the saw size classes, this is the one with which I have the least experience. But I have run a couple of each and was relatively impressed with the two 361s I've tried out in the last 6 months. I think the Husky 357xp was very competitive with the old Stihl 360 but the 361 has raised the bar.

That`s interesting Rocky because I feel that although the 036/360 is a proven excellent quality saw, it was always way behind the 357 in ergonomics because it still had the rubber antivibe buffers and antiquated air filtration system. I feel that Stihl raised a personal bar but that it only brought them up to the current state of the art as established by Husky. I like the 361....alot.......but I don`t see it as being ahead of the 357 in any way other than I like the spacing and feel of the handles. This is my opinion of course.

cheyenne · September 05, 2008, 10:57:24 PM

check the husky 359. 20" bar and then when your ready get the 24" bar for it. I like the balance & it dosn't kill me running it all day. $400.00 or so. The best thing your doing is talking to dealers pick the one you like & stick with him you won't be sorry. CHEYENNE

John Mc · September 06, 2008, 09:23:46 PM

Last time I checked (about a month ago), the Husky 359 was $517 with bar and chain at my local dealer.

sawmilllawyer · September 06, 2008, 10:17:45 PM

The price on the MS-361 is about right. Get the 20" bar. When I bought mine I got the case, extra chain and oil mix for $49.95 more. The saw will probably have the low kick back chain on it from the dealer which is OK but work up to the RSC chain, you will notice quite a difference. Had mine for 2 1/2 years and its been a great saw. Andy

peterc38 · September 06, 2008, 10:57:27 PM

Quote from: sawmilllawyer on September 06, 2008, 10:17:45 PM
The price on the MS-361 is about right. Get the 20" bar. When I bought mine I got the case, extra chain and oil mix for $49.95 more. The saw will probably have the low kick back chain on it from the dealer which is OK but work up to the RSC chain, you will notice quite a difference. Had mine for 2 1/2 years and its been a great saw. Andy

any thoughts on whether or not it is worth upgrading to the model that has the toolless quick chain adjuster (MS361 C-B) or the model with the second manually activated brake (MS 361 C-Q)?

Rocky_J · September 06, 2008, 11:02:19 PM

IMO those features are designed for people who probably shouldn't be operating a chainsaw in the first place. If you need those features then you probably need to be buying a smaller saw or leaving the cutting to somebody with better motor control skills.

sawguy21 · September 06, 2008, 11:18:06 PM

:D :D :D :D :D My thoughts too.

jokers · September 06, 2008, 11:37:24 PM

Gotta agree with Rocky and sawguy. I have to admit that I had quick chain adjust on an 019T and my son`s ms180 has it and I find it more of a pain in the behind than benefit.

sawmilllawyer · September 07, 2008, 01:19:13 PM

If your asking me, I would not get the quick chain adjust system. I have heard nothing good about them. Besides I am old school and like adjusting my saw the old fashioned way with a scrench. Andy.

SawTroll · September 08, 2008, 02:37:32 AM

Quote from: peterc38 on September 06, 2008, 10:57:27 PM
Quote from: sawmilllawyer on September 06, 2008, 10:17:45 PM
The price on the MS-361 is about right. Get the 20" bar. When I bought mine I got the case, extra chain and oil mix for $49.95 more. The saw will probably have the low kick back chain on it from the dealer which is OK but work up to the RSC chain, you will notice quite a difference. Had mine for 2 1/2 years and its been a great saw. Andy

any thoughts on whether or not it is worth upgrading to the model that has the toolless quick chain adjuster (MS361 C-B) or the model with the second manually activated brake (MS 361 C-Q)?

Stay away from the C-B, those "features" are designed to counter non-existing problems, and adds weight and complexity. :

SawTroll · September 08, 2008, 02:42:11 AM

Quote from: jokers on September 06, 2008, 11:37:24 PM
Gotta agree with Rocky and sawguy. I have to admit that I had quick chain adjust on an 019T and my son`s ms180 has it and I find it more of a pain in the behind than benefit.

Fits very well with my limited experience with some MS250Cs...

pallis · September 08, 2008, 08:30:13 PM

For those of us who don't keep up, what is a quick chain adjust? ...Not that I want one, or anything like that. ???

beenthere · September 08, 2008, 08:45:21 PM

Quote from: pallis on September 08, 2008, 08:30:13 PM
For those of us who don't keep up, what is a quick chain adjust? ...Not that I want one, or anything like that. ???

Stihl calls it a ~~""Side access chain tensioner ""~~ (edited, as it is really the Quick Chain Adjuster) note: thanks to John Mc, my error swapping names was noted, so I edited this post

It requires no tool (scrench) to make the adjustment to the chain tension.
My only experience with them was a the GOL (Game of Logging) training, where one participant had a saw with the quick adjuster. He was continually losing his chain off the bar, and the instructor made the comment he had never seen one work good. Some people like them.

I like the ""Side access chain tensioner"" using the scrench tool, loosening the two nuts and adjusting the screw, then ~~tightening~~ snugging up the nuts.