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Started by bandmiller2, August 21, 2008, 05:51:43 AM

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bandmiller2

Do most of you bandmillers cut the last board down to an inch or do you chicken out when you get close to steel and stop at 2".What about you swingers how close do you cut to a clamp/dog.I put a stop on my mill at 1" won't go lower.When I had my old circle mill I always cut to 1" except twisty stuff like fresh oak,of course back then I didn't know any better. Frank C.
frank
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Larry

A lot of older mills, my mill included could not physically saw much closer to the bed than a couple of inches.  Some sawyers made modifications to allow sawing to 1".  On my mill it was a simple matter to raise the bunks.  And it don't bother me a bit sawing a 1" board...unless I forget to lower the log stops all the way. >:(
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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Chuck White

I cut to 1" on my mill. The blade clears the clamp by over 1/2".

I have the flip-up hydraulic clamp and the high-performance blade guides on my mill and I have to move the blade guide out around the clamp when going to 1", or the guide will bump the clamp.

Yesterday, one of my blades had an accident when the sawyer (me  :o :-[) forgot to lower the log stops.
I believe the blade was only injured.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Dan_Shade

I cut 1 inch, but if you can't cut 1", tuning the log so that the pith is in the last board is a good idea
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

timberfaller390

I can actually cut down to 3/4 in. on my mill
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flip

I can get to 3/4 until the limit switch stops me.  If the last board is an odd size for what I'm sawing (too thin it goes in the junk pile).  If it is thicker I will put the best face down and skim off the top to bring it down to correct thickness.
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

TexasTimbers

Mine will go down to 3/4 of an inch too but it tilts the head a slight bit causing the board to be angled off the side a hair. It will cut down to 1" with no problems though.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Tom

I'm certainly not afraid to cut to one inch.  It's harder on the spectators than it is on the sawyer. 

On my old Woodmizer, knowing that I could cut to 6" with the clamp up and 1" with the clamp down, I gave many new off-bearers and spectators anxiety attacks. :D


Fla._Deadheader


We built ours to bottom out at 1", so, no problems.  ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Engineer

I could probably get to an inch if I tried hard, but the clamp limits me to about 2" and the stops won't hold the board if I get that low.  What I do is cut from both sides so that the pith is in the last board, which works out to a 2" board with QS wood on either side of the pith.  Those thick and narrow QS pieces are just as valuable to me as anything else because I save them for butcher blocks or tool handles (if hardwood) or trim pieces (if pine).  The last thick piece on a pine log, if you plan your cuts right, will also get you decent framing lumber.

Now, if you're resawing cants for lumber, I can see where you might want to get down to an inch.  I've wanted to do that but I can't make the saw do it.  What I'll do is set the last piece on a cant and saw it about 6" off the bed.  Still, it's hard to get the stops to hold it well (old mill + beat up stops = poor holding power).

MrMoo

I cut down to the last inch too. Plenty of clearance.

milling man

My mill will also cut down to an 1" maybe even alittle thinner. I have not tested the limits yet but you really need to watch the log stops they really can play havoc on your saws when you hit them :o

Corley5

Grandpa added short pieces of angle iron to the bunks on the Corley so it will cut to one inch.  Before it would only saw to 2"s
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

brdmkr

With the swinger things are still round on the bottom but I have cut until my blade kisses the bunks.  I use a small floor jack to keep the middle of the log from sagging. 
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

StorminN

With the Mobile Dimension saw, things are round on the bottom too... my mill bottoms out at 2" (log dogs do not retract), but I've flipped the bottom board over a time or two and surfaced it on the other side to get a 2" board out of it if I needed...

-Norm.
Happiness... is a sharp saw.

solidwoods

The back fence on my mill (Kasco IIB) only allows 1.5".
If I'm making 4/4 I cut on 1.125" increments so when I get to a 3.375" cant, I set the blade height to 2.25" ,, cut the top board off.  Then put the board right back on the cant exactly how it came off (match the ends also in case of any wave in the cut), flip the 2board cant and 1 board sandwich over ,, blade is still at 2.25" Voilà 3 boards at 1.125" thick.

Also when splitting that last cut I watch the blade to make sure it stays in the middle of the cut.  I move the blade up/down if required as I cut.
If I have a Tail person, they walk on the cant to ensure it stays flat to the bed.
jim
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

backwoods sawyer

I get a lot of call for ¾" cedar, and until I upgraded to the newest style of saw guide it was no problem, other then getting the clamp to hold in the soft cedar. Since up grading, the saw guide clears the bed rails at 7/8". I can cut ¾" but the guide rubs each of the bed rails lifting the outer edge of the saw head as it passes over each one. As long as I slow down for each bed rail and ease over it, I can cut ¾" The rise is only noticeable when the wood is planed, most of what I cut is used rough.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

Tom

Kinda makes me wonder what you are doing to the set on the bottom of the band, and if the tips of the teeth that are bent outward are being damaged.  I don't think I'd want the band touching anything.

backwoods sawyer

Quote from: Tom on August 21, 2008, 06:43:03 PM
Kinda makes me wonder what you are doing to the set on the bottom of the band, and if the tips of the teeth that are bent outward are being damaged.  I don't think I'd want the band touching anything.


Tom could you clarify whose post you are replying to? I am not seeing where anyone mentioned that there band is hitting anything.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

Chuck White

Quote from: Tom on August 21, 2008, 10:40:39 AM
I'm certainly not afraid to cut to one inch.  It's harder on the spectators than it is on the sawyer. 

On my old Woodmizer, knowing that I could cut to 6" with the clamp up and 1" with the clamp down, I gave many new off-bearers and spectators anxiety attacks. :D



Mine cuts the same as yours Tom.
I've had more observers run around the mill to get my attention.
It's kinda funny, but someday, it could save me a blade.
When the blade comes within 1/8 to 1/4 inch of "any" iron people get excited.
I have forgotten to lower the clamp before though.... so far I've always cought it in time. Unlike yesterday with the log stop.  FIL says the blade is salvagable, but probably lost one sharpening.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

thecfarm

Mine last cut is always an inch.It cannot go lower than an inch.Good thing too,or I would be hitting iron.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

ladylake

Quote from: backwoods sawyer on August 21, 2008, 07:34:12 PM
Quote from: Tom on August 21, 2008, 06:43:03 PM
Kinda makes me wonder what you are doing to the set on the bottom of the band, and if the tips of the teeth that are bent outward are being damaged.  I don't think I'd want the band touching anything.


Tom could you clarify whose post you are replying to? I am not seeing where anyone mentioned that there band is hitting anything.

What part of the guide is hitting, might be time for a grinder or lathe work. If you have the bottom guides must be the best you can get for clearance.  Do they help?   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

backwoods sawyer

Maybe this will help:


The flat part on the bottom of the guide is what is rubbing on the bed rails, not the saw.
(I was cutting some white oak today and havent washed the guides off yet)
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

MikeH

Mine will go below a inch even when I leave up the clamp. :-[




moonhill

backwoods, it looks like the bottom bolt is what hits, grind it a bit. 

I can saw to 7/8" (3/4" stops)  for the last board.  My trick for sawing to 1/2", for siding, is to leave the last cut at 1-1/8" keep the last 1/2" piece on after its cut and flip both over so the 1/2" is on the bottom,  I place a catcher piece on the outside and with no dogs slowly cut the top thicker piece in half.  Tim
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