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Anybody running cooks supersharps? What makes them special?

Started by cantcutter, June 26, 2008, 12:09:03 PM

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cantcutter

I just recieved one to try and notice that it has simonds printed on the band, Simonds is what I usually run so what makes this one worth 10.00 more per band? Anybody using them? What are your thoughts?

logwalker

I tried a couple. Was hard to tell the difference. I talked to them about it and their claim is that the back of the blade is a few degrees steeper making the tip penetrate better and sawing better even after it got dull. They make some rather ambitious claims IMHO. I was not convinced after using the blades but didn't have a side by side comparison. I have trouble believing that the steepness of the back of the tip could increase penetration on the front of the tip. Any ideas on that theory. I do know they have applied for a patent. I don't see how they can qualify for one. Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

ladylake

I'd say a lot of hype, I tried a couple, they worked fine but I don't think much better than my regular  Simonds. It seemed like they didn't have much set, that would explain not leaving much sawdust on the log, then when you sharpen them a couplke of times the profile is back to normal, as mentioned I can't see what a sharper angle on the back of the tooth would do, a little bigger gullet which might help with a 60HP diesel sawing pine.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Brian_Rhoad

I don't have any experience with the Cook's blades, but I have experimented with different tooth configurations. From my experience a steeper angle may cut better when sharp, but it won't stay sharp as long. There is less material at the tip of the blade to do the cutting causing the blade to get dull quicker. I think most of the blade manufacturers have tested their blades and make what they have found to be the best compromise for cutting ability and blade life. I have found that the most important areas are the tooth face, hook angle and the gullets ability to carry the sawdust out of the cut. Tooth set is also very important in blade performance.

cantcutter

I lined it up with my Simonds and the back is steeper, but to me that is going to shorten the life because it leaves less metal in the tooth to sharpen. I hope to try it within the next day or so, my next problem will be finding somebody to sharpen it.

flip

Let me guess, the Cook's lady called and told you about the blades?  She sounded nice but I had a hard time believing how much better they were than all the others.  Of course they didn't offer a free one to try so I was not so much inclined to buy a box that is $100 more than what I am paying now for a box.  I'll stick with my Munks :)
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

cantcutter

No actually; I buy my Simonds from them anyway and asked them to send me one so I could try them.

flip

I bought a couple of roller guides off of them several years ago for a mill I built, guess they went through their old customer list and was doing some cold calling.  Have you ever talked to the folks at Menominee? 
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

treecyclers

I have used them on various species, and honestly, I prefer Timberwolf.
The only difference I experienced was that they ran a bit longer in pine, but the additional output wasn't enough to justify the added expense.
They did pretty well on mesquite and eucalyptus, but the same cost vs. output relation was in full effect.
For me, I'll stick with timberwolf, as it's the best all around blade for my purposes.
I'll wait until they come out with a self sharpening blade that I can run for a month and never change it.
I will add that Timberwolf carbide blades are good, but there's a saw company in Phoenix that makes a similar blade that's 30% less in cost and I get the same production and cut quality from.
Never know until you try it.
SD
I wake up in the morning, and hear the trees calling for me...come make us into lumber!

Toolman

I've been having good success with Lennox Woodmaster "C" .042  They seem to last longer than the Timberking blades I used to use. They are priced right too. I paid $199.20 for box of 10 including shipping. Anybody else using these?
"A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have" (Thomas Jefferson)

cantcutter

Quote from: treecyclers on June 27, 2008, 01:20:55 PM
there's a saw company in Phoenix that makes a similar blade that's 30% less in cost and I get the same production and cut quality from.
Never know until you try it.
SD

Does the company in Phoenix ship? I really need to spend the money on some carbides, 150+ year old chestnut  is hell on regular bands.

WH_Conley

I'll wait until they come out with a self sharpening blade that I can run for a month and never change it.

That would be my dream to. :D :D
Bill

deeker

I use only the cooks super sharp blades.  On my Norwood mill.
To those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know.  On an empty C-ration box.  Khe-Sahn 1968

cantcutter

Quote from: deeker on June 28, 2008, 12:42:49 AM
I use only the cooks super sharp blades.  On my Norwood mill.

What are you sawing and what kind of board footage do you average per sharpen?

I can get 600 bf of oak out of a simonds on a good day, a little better in walnut and alot worse in pine. Cooks claims that they will increase production by as much as 100%, if that is true I would not have to change a band for 2 days unless it broke!

deeker

I cut a lot of pine, cedar, cottonwood, walnut, apricot, spruce and fir.  And on and on.
I cut about 800bf of the cedar if it is green, if it is fire salvage (bone dry) no bark I get 500+ bf.
Pines, and fir's and cottonwoods I can cut well over 1500bf without much problem.  Never broken a blade.
Always change it when it starts to dull.  The sharpen it, set it every 3rd time.  The fourth or fifth time I send it to Cooks to have them set, rolled flat and sharpened.  They now charge $8 a blade plus shipping.

Kevin Davis
To those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know.  On an empty C-ration box.  Khe-Sahn 1968

cantcutter

My Simonds will do the same in (red) cedar. Pine Spruce, Hemlock I am getting around 200 bf. Sounds like they do better in softwoods than the Simonds, but its hard to say on hardwoods.  I can cut 7-800 bf of walnut.

cantcutter

I ran the super sharp today through 306 bf of pine. It clears the sawdust very well and saws fast, but it waves a little when it comes up on knots no mater how much I slow down. I put it back in the box and am going to use it again the next day I saw just to see how many bf I can get out of it before it will not cut anymore.

I am undecided as to whether it is worth the cost, but I will say it is a good band. 

ladylake

Quote from: cantcutter on June 29, 2008, 06:05:41 PM
I ran the super sharp today through 306 bf of pine. It clears the sawdust very well and saws fast, but it waves a little when it comes up on knots no mater how much I slow down. I put it back in the box and am going to use it again the next day I saw just to see how many bf I can get out of it before it will not cut anymore.

I am undecided as to whether it is worth the cost, but I will say it is a good band. 
Not enough set, I set mine the first time I sharpened.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

TexasTimbers

I tried the Super Sharps. A two-pack just to test them. Well I tried to try the Super Sharps, but the blades I received had no set at all in them.

I called and told Tim about it. He was skeptical but I assured him "These blades have no set at all in them." He had UPS pick them up at his expense. I guess he can't be sure until he sees them hisself.

He called the next week and said "These blades have no set in them. Sorry about that they must have just slipped through. Can I send you some more to try?" If it had been me, I would have immediately sent out a couple of more blades while I was awaiting the defective ones. But that's just the way I do business.

I like the folks at Cooks, but the only blades I have ever used that are noticeably longer lasting than any other brand I have tried are Munks.

'Ol Tex here is a card-carrying Monkey Man.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

treecyclers

Quote from: cantcutter on June 27, 2008, 06:51:08 PM
Quote from: treecyclers on June 27, 2008, 01:20:55 PM
there's a saw company in Phoenix that makes a similar blade that's 30% less in cost and I get the same production and cut quality from.
Never know until you try it.
SD

Does the company in Phoenix ship? I really need to spend the money on some carbides, 150+ year old chestnut  is hell on regular bands.

I don't think they ship, as they're a smaller operation, but I'll look into it for you.
I have to get 2 more carbide blades quick, as I have about 7 tons of desert ironwood to mill up. Talk about cutting concrete, and murderous on blades!
It should be a felony!
I wake up in the morning, and hear the trees calling for me...come make us into lumber!

MrMoo

Well I need some blades and I was thinking of trying a couple of these but after reading this I think I'll just go back Munky blades.

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