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Bar Length for a Stihl MS 361

Started by WDH, June 23, 2008, 11:46:54 PM

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WDH

Thanks rfalk.  I have heard that the MS 361 could be hard to start.  Sounds like you had the same problem that I am having.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

routestep

If you aren't already, you might try using hi test gas. The octane goes down when the oil is mixed in with it and can make a hard start. In the winter I keep the saw inside the house.

WDH

The dealer told me to use regular unleaded, not the high octane stuff because he said the additives can be detrimental ???.  For 30 years I have used regular gas.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

jokers

All I use in my saws is premium, to prevent detonation, the additives are detrimental? Never seen it, and if you read the owners manual it sets a minimum octane standard for your saw which is above Regular unleaded levels. Here is an excerpt taken from the MS 361 manual on page 28:

Use mid-grade gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 89(R+M/2). If the octane rating of the mid-grade gasoline in your area is lower, use premium unleaded fuel.

note that there is no caveat suggesting that you use lower octane fuel, the manual goes on to say...

Fuel with a lower octane rating may increase engine temperatures. This, in turn, increases the risk of piston seizure and damage to the engine.

There is further discussion on page 28 of the manual regarding fuel quality, specifically regarding additives, based on what`s said I`d have to posit that they are speaking of ethanol content and it`s negative impact on engine and carb life and performance.

Here`s another interesting note from the manual that I`m sure alot of guys overlook, this is on page 54:

Firmly tighten the cylinder base screws of professional saws(3.4kW or more) after 10 to 20 hours of operation.How many of you did this? Even a slightly loose cylinder will short circuit the fuel/air charging of the combustion chamber

If the carb on your 361 is adjusted right it should pop within the first 4 or 5 pulls or maybe even less on choke when cold, then move the switch to the Hi idle position and it should be running on the next pull. Obviously you skip the choke when warm and it should be running in the first pull, maybe second. I have found it necessary to spin the engine quickly when trying to start it, maybe that`s an issue with your starting technique?

WDH

Excellent points, Jokers.  I read the manual before using the saw, and I saw the info about using higher octane gas.  I mentioned this to the dealer, and he said that he had never heard of that.  Obviously, he never read the manual.  I will upgrade to the mid-octane gas.

My starting problem was caused by flooding the cylinder with gas by using the cold start technique after letting the saw sit for one hour.  It was too warm for full choke, and in addition to that, it was 90° outside.  There was a lot of gas in the cylinder, some was even leaking out of the muffler.

Thanks for pointing out about tightening the cylinder base screws.  I will be sure to do that.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

jokers

Quote from: WDH on July 04, 2008, 07:52:03 AM
I read the manual before using the saw.....
That simple step probably makes you exceptional WDH!

Cut4fun

I have to agree with Jokers on the 93 octane gas choice.

My Dolmar dealer even has a sign in his shop, please use 89 octane minimum in chainsaws please, gas isn't what it was years ago.
When I ask him about it he said the lower octane gas will make your saws run hotter.
Nuff said for me and my saws like the cheap insurance at only 20 cents more a gallon.

ex-Engineer Wannabe

Given the proper techniques, you should be able to get just about anything you'll ever run into (down there) with a 20" ES bar and an MS361.  I was trained by professional GOL instructors, and I never saw any of them use a bar longer than 20 inches long.  Yeah, they didn't all use Stihl saws, but the bars were all the same length -- 20 inches.

I own three Stihls -- an MS200T, an MS361 & an MS660 -- and the 20" ES works great with the two larger powerheads.  It is not uncommon for us to fell softwoods in the 30"+ range, and this type of bar has served us faithfully from day one.

We are located in the Berkshires, but I'm as southern as the sawgrass, so I've got SYP pitch in my DNA. ;)     
"Measure twice, cut once" -- Don't know who coined this one, but he was pretty wise.

sawguy21

20" on the 660 ??? That is like shooting squirrels with a 12 ga. :D
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Cut4fun

Quote from: sawguy21 on July 09, 2008, 11:46:39 PM
20" on the 660 ??? That is like shooting squirrels with a 12 ga. :D

All of my 084's have a 16" bar to run plus my 066. Sometimes the long bars arn't needed, but you want your work done in a hurry  :o
Remember the days of shoving a small block in a Vega, same concept, hold on and let it rip  8).

jokers

Quote from: Cut4fun on July 10, 2008, 02:48:33 PM
Remember the days of shoving a small block in a Vega, same concept, hold on and let it rip  8).
HOLY CRAP! YOU MUST BE OLD!  :D

I had a 73, or was it a 74? Vega when it was almost new. A local machine shop sleeved the engine and it was good to go.

ex-Engineer Wannabe

You should give it a try some time, sawguy.  The 20" bar works great with the MS660 and my back thanks me for it on a regular basis (every time I walk uphill in fact). ;)

Seriously, though, we've got some big logs to buck up soon -- that we can only get to from one side -- so a 28" ES is currently on order.  Once that job's done, however, it's right back to the good old 20-incher for me.
"Measure twice, cut once" -- Don't know who coined this one, but he was pretty wise.

SawTroll

Quote from: Lanier_Lurker on June 26, 2008, 03:15:58 PM
......

I almost always use the stock 20" with full comp.  In terms of power the MS390 is comparable to the MS361 - I think...

Only on paper..... :)
Information collector.

Lanier_Lurker

Yep, that is why I said "I think".  ;)

I figured a more learned person than myself might chime in with some real world truth on that one.

Thanks SawTroll.  :)

Cut4fun

Madsen's has a gas tip in the back of their 08 catalog this year. They now recommend gas for Husky and Stihl to be 90 octane from a new study they have been doing. They show pics of pistons with lands broken off etc where saws were being run on 87 octane in a pro saw under working conditions. Get the new catalog and read the tips for yourself.

(Fuel For Pro Saws
Today's pro saws have special fuel needs. If you are new to the industry or haven't been updated on what these needs are, the following information will be very helpful.

To start, both Stihl and Husqvarna recommend the use of high octane unleaded gasoline. Both brands of pro saws are designed to burn fuel rated at  90 octane.)

WDH

I buy gas in a large plastic gas container for use on the woodmizer LT 15 and to mix chainsaw fuel.  It is nice to have gas only in one container.  Does anyone know if it is an issue to use high octane gasoline in the 15 Hp kohler engine on the LT 15?
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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