Cedar siding

[troutcreekman]

Howdy,
Is there any problem with cutting cedar siding just flat instead of with a bevel. I want to cut 3/4" x 8" cedar siding but don't really see the need for the bevel. Any thoughts? Or advice. I will be cutting with my 8" WPF Peterson. Thanks, David

[Oregon_Sawyer]

I have only done board and bat siding with cedar.  My wifes music studio in Willamina is done with WRC.

But you get two pieces of siding out of each 1x if you bevel.

I met a man in southern oregon that would buy 1x and recut into bevel siding.

[alpmeadow]

My view is that beveled siding goes twice as far!, and looks twice as good!  I cut cedar bevel siding on the woodmizer with a borrowed lap sider. 1x8 then become two pieces.
Cedar is pretty expensive make it stretch.
Cheers
alpmeadow

[Ernie]

This is some siding that we milled in redwood 20mm X 150mm no bevel

[brdmkr]

I cut 3/4 x 6" pine no bevel for my shop and I am thinking about doing this for our house as well.

[Brucer]

Louis, my competitor and one-time boss, had a standard product that really brought in the money. He'd saw Western Red Cedar, 5/8" thick by 8", and sell it for siding. The customers would lap it so it looked like bevel siding. The stores were selling bevel siding for $2.00/BF, and Louis was selling his stuff for $1.50/BF. Of course, under the grading rules 5/8" thick counts as 1" for the BF calculation, so he'd earn a lot more dollars out of a log. Customers were happy enough because they saved $$.

It was interesting how much better the siding looked than 3/4" thick material. That 1/8" less had a real effect on appearance.

I've stayed away from the product, partly so's not to compete with Louis, but mainly because it gets pretty Dang boring after a while.

[beav39]

ive sawn cedar siding at a half inch by 6in flat for quite a few people with no ill results they startoff with a small piece at the bottom so as to have a angel on the rest as they go.

[SwampDonkey]

That's (beveled) what we commonly call clapboards here in the Maritimes. If I was to build a new smaller house, I would go for cedar siding in a heart beat. Price pending of course. ;D

[beav39]

jus

That's (beveled) what we commonly call clapboards here in the Maritimes. If I was to build a new smaller house, I would go for cedar siding in a heart beat. Price pending of course. ;D

we call them clap boards hear to ,(just couldnt think of the word early in the morn)

[bck]

The vertical corner boards and frame around doors and windows may need to be thicker if siding is not beveled? Wouldnt want siding sticking out farther than windows. If it is not beveled it would be 3/4 on top of 3/4 ( total 1 1/2" )where they meet, beveled would be approx only the thickness of one board.

[moonhill]

This type of siding is also called weather boarding.  I like the traditional clap board term.  You don't loose any by sawing two 1/2" pieces from the 1" stock, its just shaped different.  You really need 1-1/8" stock to get the full 1/2", with a bandsaw.  If you are sawing form the cant you don't need any jigs, just a new saw scale and they are cheep.  I am referencing 1/2" for the economics of of it.  5/8" and 3/4" would work just fine just more material.  A benefit I like about the non beveled siding is the air space on the back side, you don't get this with the beveled siding.  I have never had a negative comment on how the siding looks, most are surprised and complementary. 

I use a 1/2"x5" board with a 4" exposure,  my fastener is about 1-1/8" up from the bottom edge allowing only that one row of fasteners to hold the board, now the siding can move, it's not held down in a way which may crack the board as it shrinks and expands.   I also tried squeezing the material even more by graduating the courses.  The first course at the bottom was 1-1/2" exposed with a 1" under the next.  Each next course is increased by 1/4" or 1/2".  This allows the use of boards with sap or wane to be removed on the table saw.   Tim

[TexasTimbers]

I also tried squeezing the material even more by graduating the courses.  The first course at the bottom was 1-1/2" exposed with a 1" under the next.  Each next course is increased by 1/4" or 1/2".  This allows the use of boards with sap or wane to be removed on the table saw.   Tim

You lost me here. Are the numbers correct? You were at 4" exposure then went down to 1-1/2" exposure?

[moonhill]

Yes that is right.  For the bulk of the building I use a 4" exposure, adjusted slightly to line the bottom and top of windows up even.  But to graduate the courses I start at the bottom with a 2-1/2" course.  The next is 2-3/4" and overlapping the first by The 1" lap.  The 3rd is 3" with a exposure of 2". The fourth 3-1/4" ...3-1/2"...3-3/4"....4"...4-1/4"....4-1/2"....4-3/4" and finally 5".  Every course is lapped by 1".  These numbers are a variable, in that if a window bottom is coming up I vary the courses to meet to bottom so the board doesn't need to be cut out.  I like the look of the courses growing and you can hide the variances easier as well.  I also work in the blocks for exterior lights and outlets on the course lines  too.   Hope this is clearer.  This thread caught my attention.  I think this type of siding is very economical.  Tim

[Ernie]

Hey Tim, could you please post some pix?  It would make it a lot easier for us poor peasants to visualise.

Thanks

[TexasTimbers]

Man this sounds like alot more work than any amount of cutting around windows. If you are keeping a consistent 1" lap as you say, then you're ripping all these different widths? You must really like the look alot if you're going through all that trouble and waste.

Like Ernie, to me a picture would be worth 1000 words.

[moonhill]

The graduated section on the first few courses is a bit more work, but it uses up some of the culled stock which would be wasted, so there is actually less waste.  The time spent sorting and resawing on a table saw in minimal.  Applying clapboards is way faster than shingles and using stock which I have made is a bit nicer than buying something at the local building supply outfit.  And don't even go in the direction of that plastic fake looking stuff that blows off in a good wind. 

By adjusting the courses I am only using a 1/8" per course over a few courses which eliminates the need to cut a step out of the clap board, you still need to cut the underlaying course at the window.  With new construction all the window tops are in the same plane if you have done a good job so you only have to figure this once and use a story pole to gain your lay out for the whole building.   

Sorry for the lack of pictures.  I may be the only one on this forum without pictures.  I have them just have not taken the time to get set up.  The siding looks just like Ernie's and note how the top to the door and the course of boards flow with out a cut out.  I have actually only just started to look at the Links of others, they are great.  It gives a understanding with whom you are chatting with.   Tim

[SwampDonkey]

Obviously it has worked well for you or you would not take the time to do it. And I agree, vynal siding is not for me either. Although I do have aluminum siding on my old house, it's been there for over 30 years.

[Left Coast Chris]

Would you put 3/8" plywood beneath for lateral bracing (shear wall)?

Also, do you use tar paper or moisture barier (tyvek)?

[TexasTimbers]

I can't think of a scenario where you would not want a moisture barrier in a structure that's built for habitation.

Nor considering code, if you fasten the siding properly, you would not need lateral bracing, but you will get plenty of naysayers on that. Me for one. Even though millions of homes have been built throughout the ages without lateral bracing, a structure using thin cedar siding will become loose over the years and I would want at least some 1 x cross braces laid in flush to the studs.