iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Re: Using the board dragback feature on the LT40 S

Started by BBTom, May 30, 2003, 02:34:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

BBTom

Norm,
I think they were refering to having to reset the calibration.  Read the number off the sensor ( at the bottom of the shiny rod behind the manual scale) then enter that number in the accuset..  If my memory serves correct it would be .. Manual.. up arrow..  second button below screen.. second button below screen... up or down to set number...  but then I am at the computer and not the accuset, so don't hold me to that!!! Then very accurately set the head at 12 inches over the ways and press the (press at 12 inches) button.  that should register the accuset so it reads correctly.

Bibby.
as far as the dragback, I have found that it is EXTREMLY sensitive to the level of the machine.  It also is dependent on the width of the board you are dragging.  I use it a fair amount of time, as much as I can when it is setting the end on the table. it saves a bunch of time if it is working.  I think Woodmizer should retrofit all the old supers with the chain drops to stabilize  the board on the return.  But unfortunately I am still waiting for some information from them on the new accuset.  Last time I asked, I was told that they would replace them as they broke down, but now my machine is out of warranty,  wondering now if I am stuck with this old one forever.  

2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

Bibbyman

One of the features that come with the Wood-Mizer LT40 Super is the board dragback arm.  When we got the new mill a year and a half ago,  we had some much to learn and un-learn we didn't even try the board dragback for quite some time.  

Now we've got everything else pretty much in control,  we are starting to see how we can use the dragback.  One thing odd is,  it tends to push the boards off to the right instead of straight back.  Looks like it's designed to do that.  Sometimes it will push an 8' board off the side of the cant so soon,  one end will hit the ground and the other will hang on the kicker or hit the sawhead.  In either case,  it brings the head to an abrupt stop.

We've got the skidplate/table in place that should catch the returned board but it only makes it to it about 1 in 20 times.  We've tried to use it where the offbearer will catch the end of the board about half way off the cant and guide it straight and let if fall on the skidplate/table.  But the return speed of the Super is so fast, it's a bit intimidating to try to handle one end.

The way we are now using it is,  I'll saw one or two boards and then use the dragback arm to push then about 1/2 to 2/3 the way back,  then step around and pull them the rest of the way by hand.  Then I can keep on sawing while the offbearer gets caught up.

I've thought about extending the table area and making some changes to the angle on the face of the dragback arm so it will come somewhat straight back.

Does anyone else use the dragback and how do you use it?  Did you have to modify the angle of the arm face?

Sure would be cool to have a conveyor to dump the boards onto that will spill them onto a green chain.  That would be "right up town".
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Tom

Bibbyman, dragbacks require that the end of the log be cut very square to get the board to push straight.  The dragback might be crooked too but look at the end of the log for squareness.

Brian_Bailey

Bibbyman,

 I never cared much for the drag back feature due to the reasons you stated.  Woodmizer told me it is supposed to be used with an offbearer, it wasn't intended for a one man operation.  Since I run the mill by myself, I removed the entire arm mechanism so I can Q saw a wider board.  I considered changing the angle also, but never got around to it.
WMLT40HDG35, Nyle L-150 DH Kiln, now all I need is some logs and someone to do the work :)

Furby

 At work they have a lot of stuff they are getting rid of and one thing they still have is one of the old assembly lines. I have had to help move it a couple of times so I know how heavy it is, real heavy, but I have been playing around with the idea of getting a hold of it for just that very reason Bibby. Last time we moved it we had to cut in half which means we cut the long drive belt, >:( but I think I can get a new one. I just don't know if I really want to mess with it since I still don't have a mill yet. >:(

Norm

I have never liked the board drag back system on our WM. On the super the return speed is so fast that I think it is dangerous for the reasons you stated Bibby. I have been thinking of getting rid of mine so the throat area is bigger, one option I wish I hadn't paid for.

On a side note we had to replace the control unit on our mill, the guy at WM said we would have to redo the register on the accuset. Looked in the manual for that one and couldn't find it. Anyone know what the heck it is.

Percy

Heya Bibby
I got a different mill I know, but the dragback works great on it. The 70 has a  greatbig hangydown thing about 3 feet behind the blade that keeps the board strait while being dragged back. If you were to fashion a similar piece and get it to work correctly,  you would love the dragback feature. ;D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

dewwood

Bibby,

I use the dragback most of the time when sawing.  I don't have the remote operator station(wish I did) so I just kind of lay my hand on the board and guide it as I return the head.  I have a set of rollers on saw horses that I set up at the end of the mill and usually it pushes the board onto them.  Short logs cause more difficulty because they don't make the catch ramp sometimes.  I saw by myself most of the time and it helps to return slabs and boards to the same end of the saw to be dealt with.  

I don't have too much trouble with it going off the side but like I said it has a guiding hand.  I think it saves me a lot more time than the small amount of trouble that it causes occasionally.

Dewey
Selling hardwood lumber, doing some sawing and drying, growing the next generation of trees and enjoying the kids and grandkids.

Mtnjack

Bibby check out your friends at the plant woodmizer they are now useing timberharvesters idea to hold your boards on th e straight.They use hanging fingers not unlike the dragbacks themselves like percy says.In woodmizers new mailing you can see the chain style on there production mill.Looks like timing chain to me.I saw these in use at the paulbunyan show . My mill will soon have this option as i saw alone most of the time.Good luck and be carefull. Mtn jack

                    

AtLast

I use my drag back constantly...this mill was designed to be a 1 man operation..as stated simply square the end when bucking.....most head returns are a " deadmans switch"..but if ya take yer finger off the button it stops pertty goote....the ole pickeroon comes in handy in that case as well.  ;D..also on my mill I can either use the drag back or it can easily be swung up and out of the way should I choose not to use it..personally i really like it and have had few instances that it pushed the board away from me...the entire " off loading" on my mill is very user friendly and MOST convienant (sp)...darn spellin...never claimed to be a rouge scholor..skolur...scoller...well u awl git the idear  ::)

Bibbyman

Our mill is set up stationary and I went to some pains to level it.  I haven't checked it lately but feel like it couldn't have moved much.   I don't think level or log butt square is the problem.  I can see if you were not remote,  you could just lay a hand on the board and keep it going in the right direction.



Here is a picture of the dragback "hand" that contacts the board.  It has a decided slope to the face of about 1-1/2" in it's 6" width.  I think it needs a little "blacksmithing" so the boards have a chance to come back straight(er).

BBTom is right on about the registry.  I've had to do it a couple of times. Once you know the number of'n the sensor,  and have the head set so the blade is "zackly" 12" over the bed,  it only takes a couple of button pushes on the panel to set.  Like he said.  I'm sure it's all in the Accuset manual but won't make any sense until you do it the first time.

We've gust this morning installed the new Accuset upgrade.  Looks like it's going to work fine.  Too windy to saw today to test.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Norm

Thanks for the pointers BBTom and Bibby, I guess the thing that threw me was he called it register and I saw calibrate and thought I was missing something. Went back and re-read the accuset manual and I had done the calibration and thought the register thing was something different. Thanks for the help.

ElectricAl

Bibb,

Just a thought. Maybe cut a couple of wedges of different angles and duct tape the wedge to the face of the drag back. With a little trial and a lot of error, you'll find an angle that fits your needs. Then a nice White Oak blank could be mounted with a couple of counter sunk carriage bolts.



I wonder what would happen if I duct taped a wedge to my board drag back?






Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

Bibbyman

Don't try it Al,  Linda would probably womp you with something.   :D  We've seen pictures of her arm. ::)

But you know,  great minds think alike.  I found a block and fund a roll of duct tape.  Pulled about 2" off the roll before it turned into where it stuck to the paper center.  Nuts! >:(
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

steveST

Bibby,

Glad to hear your Accuset upgrade came...
Mine needs replaced too, but WM is telling me "later on this week".

I understand it's a new board, cable, filters, etc.

Did you install it?

As for the board return, I'm with Brian...I'd rather have the extra space for quartersawin'!

Bibbyman

Steve,

The Accuset upgrade is a bit of a challenge.  The instructions are very procedural and detailed.  The major problem I had was identifying the wires that needed cut and re-routed.  

Mary helped me and took notes of were we had questions,  where we made assumptions, and a couple of small discrepancies we found.  I'm going to put the notes together and send back to WM for comment.  I'll send you a copy of what I found vi. instant message.

We've only sawn one log to test it out and it appeared to function much better.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

steveST

Thanks Bibby.... I appreciate your input.

How long did it take you to install? I need to schedule some time ASAP! :P

Some more results from your testing would be appreciated too.

Thanks again.  

Bibbyman

It took us a couple of hours but if you knew exactly what you had to do,  it wouldn't take but about 30 minutes.  I ment to take some pictures but 4-got.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Thank You Sponsors!