grading logs for sale to the mill

[Polly]

 :( :(     8)    due to ecomic conditions i have got a bunch of logs red and white oak and some other timber i need to cut to length and grade to sell what length is most profible and what should i not try to sell and keep to saw myself for rough lumber locally any suggestions would be appreciated i know very little about this in fact next to nothing : :

[Dan_Shade]

you should buck the logs to yeild the highest grade per each tree.  cutting each log to 16 feet is'nt the most profitable way to buck most logs

[Dave Shepard]

You need to talk to whoever is buying the logs. Their market will dictate the best way to buck the logs. For hardwoods around here, they don't pay the higher grades for logs under 9'6". One of the mills I talked to last fall said it was better to cut a log long, even if it had one knot, than to cut it short just to get four clear faces. The reasoning was that any of the boards that did have the knot could still be trimmed back, leaving the rest long.


Dave

[Polly]

    8)so you all are saying it is best to have i 16 ft ibstead of two 8 ft  would it be more profible to keep 8 ft and saw myself  when cutting to length should everything be cut to 8 10 12 14 16 plus 3inches or so  :

[Dave Shepard]

Most mills want either 4" or 6" of trim, and I believe they take hardwood in one foot increments. Are you selling to a mill or a broker? They should be able to give you a price and specification sheet, and will help you with their bucking preferences.


Dave

[Polly]

    8)   thanks fellows i am going to take a load monday and see what happens i just got a tandom axle trailer probly can haul 5 ton  again thanks

[WH_Conley]

Check with your buyer before you cut. Around here if a log 11'6" it is still a 10' log. Lumber is sold, for grade, in 1' lenght's. We have one buyer here that will pay more for big ugly logs than small slick logs, knots be hanged, the big deduction is sweep.

Talk to the buyer first.

[Ron Scott]

Ditto! Talk to the buyer first to see what they specifically want.

[Bibbyman]

There are a lot of mistakes made by professional loggers bucking up logs.  They tend to buck logs up to fit the bunks on their trucks.  And then too,  if they have a tape measure, they don't know how to use it. 

We had one part-time logger that would ask what we wanted and we'd tell him we were low on 12' logs.  Next load he'd bring in all 12' logs.  Problem was,  only about half would be usable.  Some would have made 3 – 8' logs because of the crook, but he'd cut them 12' long because that's what I wanted.  He'd often leave a complete fork to make the 12' log when it should have been butted back to 10'.  I'd show him and tell him I can't get lumber out of these logs.  But it never sunk in.

There is some training information out there on bucking and grading logs.  I'm not sure if there is much here on the Forum.  You may try over on the Logging section.

Find out what they are making.  If they are making ties out of the centers they may want specific length logs. 

Appearance means a lot.  Trim the knots and limbs close,  trim and spurs or butt swells,  buck the logs square and leave at least 4" and better 6" trim.  Deliver fresh.

Here is a link to an old topic I started on grading logs. At the end is a link to some training information at the end of the topic.

Grade the log - sweep, crook, shell, rot, etc.

[Ron Wenrich]

Bucking for grade is pretty much dependent on who you're selling them to.  Veneer is the highest value, and it has to be free of defect.  They have specific sizes that they want.  Let the veneer buyer come to your yard and tell you how he wants it cut.  Far more profitable than whacking a log and carting it away.

The next best is a sawmill grade log.  Again, size matters as does defect and their placement.  Crooked logs will drop you in volume and value.  Quite often a defect can be overlooked.  Sawyers put them on the corner of the board and take them off in edgings.  No need to cut back on most defect unless its at the end of the log.  Many log graders will disregard defect on the end, and simply cut the log back in volume.

The more knots on a log, the lower the value.  The very worst may suit your needs, if you are using it in rough cut construction.  If you need clearer wood, then you'll need better logs. 

The lowest quality of logs are pallet, with tie logs being a little better.  Tie logs have some pretty specific things that it can't have, such as shake, rot, and double heart.  I've have to throw out several logs a day that were cut on a crotch and too much bark remains.  Tie logs also have to be of a certain length and diameter.  We cut primarily 8' 6" ties, but also sell 8', and 13' on up to 23'. 

As noted, talk to buyers first. 

[woodmills1]

any log you can cut and have a buyer for the product will pay you more than selling it, unless you are cutting pallet boards from veneer logs.  I sell quite a few logs now and most checks I get 2 or 3 logs pay as much as the whole rest of the load.  Believe it or not 8 foot pallet pine is going up here and pallet hardwood is worth more as firewood.  Funny market

[ely]

one mill near here will allow an extra inch on your scale if you haul them 16 footers. they like the longer logs. but like bibby says sometimes the log will not let you cut them long.

[beav39]

safe bet is to see what the log buyers specs are     you will get more money that way