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Mounting a mile marker on a JMS trailer

Started by OneWithWood, May 08, 2008, 05:35:28 PM

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OneWithWood

I have a JMS 10 ton trailer with a Farmi 51-D grapple loader.  Recently I removed a 10,500 pound MileMarker hydraulic winch from a truck I will be selling.  I would like to mount the winch on the JMS trailer so I can pull logs close enough to grab with the grapple.  Fabbing the mount itself will not be a problem but I could use some advice for hooking the winch up to the hydraulics.  On the truck the winch was powered via the power steering pump and controlled by a hand switch connected to the positive battery terminal and ground.  There is a little electronic component in the wire ahead of the positive terminal.
The only battery on the trailer is the little emergency one to power the brakes in case of separation.  Could it be as simple as adding a battery and mount and teeing into one of the hydraulic lines?
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Dan_Shade

DR_Buck hooked up one on his log trailer, I figure he'll be along directly to toss some info out.

Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Dave Shepard

What is the 12volts for, just a solenoid valve? Are you using a 7 pin flat (RV) plug? They have a 12 volt feed that may be enough to supply. Do you also tow the trailer with the dozer? You may have to have a hot wire to clip on to the dozer somewhere.


Dave
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

ScottAR

As I recall, the milemarkers have a very low hydraulic volume so you may
need to put a restrictor or run a small size hose.  If using a restrictor,
put it in a 45deg or 90deg fitting.  If you put it with just a hose on the
output, it'll blow a hole in the hose.   Personally, I'd just use small hose. 
It's cheaper anyway. 
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

OneWithWood

The 12v is or the control switch,  it probably controls a solenoid but I do not know for sure.  The trailer gets hooked up to my F-350 for road use and when it is hooked to the truck it is hooked up with a round RV plug.  When it is hooked up to the crawler the plug is not used.  However, I do want to hook up a brake controller that I can operater from the crawler.  I just have not been able to find a weatherproof controller.  If I hook up a controller than I would have a 12v source through the RV plug. 
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

DR Buck

OWW

It's piece of cake.   I'll get you pictures and parts list tonight and post them.   

WELL WORTH ADDING !     

Almost as good as having a couple extra helpers.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

DR Buck

Here you go..... 

First thing is the MileMarkers can not take the high hydraulic pressure used with the Farmi loaders. I believe MileMarker told me the max it could take was about 1200 PSI.   You'll need to get a pressure reducer.  I got mine from Surplus City.  I think it was about $30.   It gets placed in the output side of the valve bank.


These first two pictures are the winch mounted on the front end of the trailer. I cut one of the vertical angles to fit it in.  I still need to weld a horizontal piece above and below the winch to support the piece I cut.  (Disregard the missing roller.  I lost the keeper clip and I haven't got it replaced yet.  I'm going to drop in a bolt with a nylon nut to replace it.)




Here's looking down on the winch.  Its mounted to a 1/4" steel plate bolted to the flange at the top of the loader support legs.


This is a close-up of the mounting plate.  I used the 3 existing large holes to bolt the plate to the loader support.   I also had to drill 2 holes through for the winch mounting bolts in order to get it to sit flat on the top of the loader support platform.  The 1/4" plate is also drilled on the outer end to bolt the front mounts of the winch.   The outer end of the 1/4" plate just hangs there.  There isn't any down pressure on it so I figured it would be OK.   I've pulled some pretty heavy things and haven't bent it yet.   I even pulled my dump truck out of the mud with it and it was loaded with stone at the time.  About 20,000 lbs.


This next picture is also of the underside of the mount showing how i bolted it.   You can also see where I mounted the connector block for the winch control cable.  It's up underneath out of the way where it won't get smashed.



Here is a another shot of the mounting arrangement.  The shows a better view of the connector block.



This picture is from the opposite side where the hoses connect.  While I'm on this view, I'll explain the 12V connection. ... I tapped the wire at the emergency break battery terminal.  That way the winch fuse can be put into the box out of the way.  When hooking this up I discovered that JMS never hooked the 12v vehicle charging wire to charge the break-away battery.   I had to add a jumper in the terminal box.  (It's under the trailer mounted on the frame near the front.


These next two pictures show how I installed the pressure regulator.  It just 'hangs' off the output end of the valve body.  The 'T' provides the return for the valve body and the 'dump' to reduce pressure when activating the winch solenoids.


(The white spot is bird crapola)


This one is a close-up of the pressure regulator label. 



Here are a couple other things you might want to change while you're at it.

This one I haven't done yet but I plan on it soon.   Add a couple of 90° adapters on this distribution block to take the hanging weight off the hose connectors.



This one I did last fall after banging the grapple into a log and breaking a hose connector.   I removed all 4 of the grapple hoses from the loader and took them to a hydraulic shop and had them cut off the ends.  I then had them put on straight connectors.  I also had them make up 5 short hoses that couple to the straight connector I had them put on.  The short hoses have a straight connector on one end and a hard 90° on the other.  These are connected to the grapple.  If you look close, you can see the connection through the hose wrap.  The 5th one is a spare so the next time I'm at a customers picking up logs and break another connector I can just swap out the short jumper and be back in business.



Hope all of this helps you keep up in the toy department.   Let us know how you make out.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

DR Buck

OWW,

Here is the spec sheet for the pressure relief valve.   It's got my cryptic notes scribbled on it.  ;D
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Gary_C

Quote from: DR_Buck on May 09, 2008, 09:09:57 PM
This one I did last fall after banging the grapple into a log and breaking a hose connector.   I removed all 4 of the grapple hoses from the loader and took them to a hydraulic shop and had them cut off the ends.  I then had them put on straight connectors.  I also had them make up 5 short hoses that couple to the straight connector I had them put on.  The short hoses have a straight connector on one end and a hard 90° on the other.  These are connected to the grapple.  If you look close, you can see the connection through the hose wrap.  The 5th one is a spare so the next time I'm at a customers picking up logs and break another connector I can just swap out the short jumper and be back in business.



That's a good idea. On my forwarder those four grapple hose are replaced quite often. One other thing you should do is buy 90 degree male/female JIC fittings that screw onto the grapple and eliminate the crimp on 90 degree fittings on the hose. The 90deg screw on fittings are so much cheaper than the crimp on 90's that you can afford to replace about 3-4 screw ons for one crimp on and you do not have to go to the hose shop to replace them.

I generally start with one hose for the full length and then as it gets damaged will cut off one end and put a new fitting on till it is too short and then add a short hose with a coupling.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

DanG

Quote from: OneWithWood on May 08, 2008, 05:35:28 PM
  There is a little electronic component in the wire ahead of the positive terminal.

That's just a fuse...no big deal.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

OneWithWood

Excellent, DR.  I knew you would come through.  8)

Before I mount the old winch on the JMS I am struggling transferring the Warn brush guard/winch mount from the '86 F250 to the '89 F250 so I can mount my new mile marker (that puts me one up in the winch category  :) )  Of course Ford changed the front bumper assembly and modified the frame members so I have to first remove the '89 bumper and fab up some brackets.  To add to the challenge the previous owner(s) apparently attempted to remove the bumper and rounded off the bolt heads  >:(

It never ends . . . .  :D

Thanks everybody!!
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

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