cutting 4x4

[fivedogs]

  hi everyone i have just started using my mill  after a long winter  and have started cutting 4x4 cedar  my problem is  two fold  when dogging the logs the dogs on my mill won't hold the logs in place  and after the first two   cuts  i have trouble holding the cut log  straight if i dog it too hard it cuts it at an angle if too light it drops it the minute the blade bites in  anyone have an alternative way of holding these small logs in place  i'm  running a hudson 228  thanks 

[Tom]

Small logs are difficult with almost any mill. 
End dogging is about the only way and the Scraggs do that.

The best way for a small bandmill is to turn 180° and get the log on a stable "flat" as soon as possible.

Sometimes the only way to keep the cant from rolling is to slow down the sawing speed.

Using sharp bands and blade lube helps to cut down on the resistance. 

Clamping is an art, as you have found.  You learn to use just enough preasure.

You are lucky that the blade is pulling into the fence dogs.  That helps to keep the cant straight with minimal clamping.

[Radar67]

I have the Hudson Oscar 28 (an earlier model of the one you have). I've cut a few small logs with the same problems you are having. What I found to work best is to dog the log at the wide half point and make the opening cut. I like to get 6 inches clear face, then flip the log 180 degrees. Cut down to a 6 inch clear face. Rotate 90 degrees and dog mid way. Pay attention to get the faces square to the bed. Cut down to a minimum of a 6 inch clear face (I try to get a good edge on one side on this face. Flip 180 and cut the cant how you want. It is easy to dog low now, just don't put too much pressure on the cant or it will lift up causing an out of square cut. I'm working on an idea for a better clamping system. Hope this helps.

[deeker]

One trick on my norwood, is to use a "cant" on the off side to clamp beams/logs against.  Also when edging boards.  It gives support the length of the entire cut.  The cant is often sacraficed.  But it braces the logs/boards instead of frustrating me to no end.

Kevin Davis
Ruff Cutts

[bandmiller2]

As stated small poles are a problem,but ceder is worth the trouble.Use alot of sacrificial blocking and odd pieces to steady the pole.This is where you run into mill parts go slow.Frank C.

[schmism]

were's that thread i just read the other day about "clamping" small logs via a nail and a recess in the bed.  just drop the small log down on top of it ....  seems to be the way to go for small logs

[Radar67]

That thread was for the swing saws. A band saw won't work that way.

[New Brunswick]

 I cut alot of 4x4's on a manual dogging bandmill, and I flip 180, and I keep 2 blocks of 2x3 about 16 inches long tied on ropes under my dogs, on the 3rd flip I'll use them to put in between the log and dog and it works fine for me. I also keep a framing square handy just to make sure the open face is 90 degree's from bed. For me after cutting a few, a quick glance and you can soon tell if it's not square. 

[fivedogs]

thanks for all the responses  it much appreciated  keep any ideas coming  i was thinking of using a bracing system  like a  wood clamp setup that would bite into the side if it works i'll send out some pics. thanks again for all the great advice fivedogs 

[rbarshaw]

The first mill I made used 3/4" pipe clamps to dog the log, just take the foot off the threaded end and grind a point in it. I could dog a 2" branch. Look at the pics of my old mill. It wouldn't be to hard to build a drop in rig to do what you need.

[woodmills1]

not being smart A..... but woodmizers clamp very well.

[deeker]

woodmizers clamp well, true.  Except for short logs...or those that have too much sweep.  Same problems as any other band mill.  With the norwood LM2000 I can move the dogs and back dogs on any or all bunks.  Short logs are a pain no matter how you set them up.  For edging, even on the woodmizer...we use a sacraficial cant to support the entire board.
As well as small logs.

Kevin Davis
Ruff Cutts

[Cedarman]

For 13 years we used a 1983 WM LT30 for sawing cedar.  We made tens of 1000's 7 and 8' cedar 3 1/2 x 3 1/2.  The guys got good at clamping and sawing nice square pieces.
This is one area where manual mills outperform hydraulic mills.

To run efficiently, it takes 2 people.  We would have the log deck full and use a 4' rod with a hook to pull the log onto the log bed.  We would always have the logs onthe mill so the mill would go into the small end first.  We had a shim piece taped to the cross beam that the small end would set on.  This taped piece could be flipped into place in a second.  The off bearer would grab the clamp in the center and raise it up to be in the center of the log and chain it in place.  Saw the face and on the return, the sawyer would release the dog for the offbearer to rotate 90 degrees and redog.  Saw and release.  The off bearer would flip shim out, rotate 90 degrees and press down  on log to keep it from moving as the saw would enter the wood.  As the sawyer got about 1/2 way down the log, he would push down on post to keep it from moving.  Sawyer returns and  offbearer would rotate log final time and repeat as on 3'd pass.  The log was not locked on 3'd and 4th pass.  It was held down by offbearer and then by sawyer.  Slabs were put in jig and hauled to burn pile.  After market developed, they were banded into 1 ton bundles and sold.

Logs 5" make 1 3 1/2 x 3 1/2, larger logs made post and some lumber. 8" made a 3 1/2 by 7 1/16 which was then cut in 1/2.

We made good money because the margin on log costs and post market was big.

In 94 I built a home made end dogging scragg and in 97 replaced with a Baker scragg which we still use.

The manual WM was replace in 96 with a hydraulic mill.dd