Thoughts about the Procut and Jonsered mills..

[ranger]

I have been thinking about making a chainsaw mill this summer. I have already built a mill similar to the Alaskan mill and now would like to put one together like the procut or jonsered mill. Was wondering how well that style of mill works as compared to the Alaskan. Have thought some about making a band mill, but I am just not ready to tackle that one yet. I can probably use the bottom framework from the chainsaw mill later if I decide to go the bandmill route, and just make a new carriage for the bandsaw. Any thoughts, good or bad would be much appeciated.  

 Matt  ;)

[J Beyer]

If you build the Pro-Cut, it would be real easy to convert it into a bandmill.  The frame on the Pro-Cut is setup for either chainsaw or bandsaw in my opinion.

Check out this link.  Hudson's chainsaw mill uses the same tracks/frame and their bandsaw sawmills.  An easy way to upgrade:

http://www.hud-son.com/bandmills.htm

The hudson frames are a little on the small size for heavy logs, but a good model to look at when coming up for ideas on building a chainsaw mill that you can upgrade to a bandmill.

JB

[Danny_S]

Hey Matt, I am in the process of building a bansawmill but I wanted to resaw some cedar slabs for siding for my camp. Having most of the bandmill built, except for the bandwheels, and powerplant, I mounted my chainsaw on the head temporarily to resaw those slabs.






there are more pictures of what I have got built under the "Building a Mill, Have you?" topic.. I have to get a couple of pictures up of it running with the chainsaw on it...it works excellent for those slabs and I have cut a couple of 4x4 with it. It is just a 45cc saw so it cannot cut anything big. I just filed a regular chain at 0 degrees and the rakers off at 35 thousands. Cuts good.

[ranger]

Thanks for the info guys! I see most mills seem to roll on angle iron. What thickness of angle do most run on? I am going to be building the frame out of 2x6, 3/16" or 1/4" wall. Should that be beefy enough for a 20 foot span? ???

Matt

[ranger]

Buck,

Your mill looks like it's coming along very well. How are you going to raise and lower the saw head?  Can't wait to get started with the building of mine. I can hardly get the idea out of my head, hard to get to sleep at night. Kinda like the night before opening day for deer season.  ;D

Matt

[Danny_S]

Mornin' Matt, dream about sawmills dancing in your head last night?  :D Dont feel bad, I think about that mill all the time too. I copied Norwood's raise/lower system, the garage door spring thing....



It works good, it is faster than threaded rod or anything like that and easy to build, adjust,and get parts for. The only thing you have to make is a way to lock the head in place, which is no big deal. Good to have it locked anyway so you are assured the blade wont wonder up or down cuz of the head floating around.

This is just the way I did it... there are lots of great Ideas out there...and probably smarter people...maybe.. :D :D :D

[MrMoo]

Ranger,
I wouldn't use the 3/16" angle iron. To me more steel is better. The 6" height is good but I would go with at least 1/4" and maybe consider 5/16". The more rigidity you get the less flex in the frame & less time trueing up the frame. I would even consider 6" tall box tubing with 1/4" wall. Of course if your machine will sit on concrete it doesn't matter.
Mike

[ranger]

Mike

Thanks for the reply! I wasn't planning on using angle for the base, I planned on using 2"x6"x20' tubing. Not sure if 3/16" or 1/4". The angle iron question was for the track or runners. Not too sure what to roll the carriage on. Any thoughts...

Matt

[Danny_S]

Matt, just to show you what I did, not that it is the only way or best way, but works good and is very ruggid,..


The roller locks on the 1/2" shaft with a small setscrew.
That way you can slide it on the shaft a little for alignment.
I had them milled by a friend of mine, he is one of those "case of beer" for payment fellas. :D  I told him I would saw him some lumber for his work as well.



I got the pillow block bearings on sale for $8 each so it turned out to be fairly cheap. About $100 put 4 rollers on the mill.

[Furby]

Hey Guys,
 I've been thinking (oh no not again ) would it work any better to weld a metal rod along the top of the 2"x6" beams? I just wondered if it would be cheaper, lighter, and easier. I guess you would have a harder time getting it straight though, hum?
Buck,
 Did you weld your cross beams or bolt them? I can't tell but it looks like you bolted them. What size are your cross beams?

[Furby]

Duh!
 I just read the post in the Harold gave me the bug! thread. I didn't even have to ask, oh well. I do remember seeing that on WM's though.

[Danny_S]

I used a couple of frames that came from our local telephone company, they were racks that held something,..they are 3' wide by 7 1/2' long. I bolted two of them together and plated the side with 6" x 3/16" plate to act as a big gusset. I have 3" x 1/4" angle for cross peices and other peices of tubing for strength and mounting spring shackles and the pole to. I bolted most everything to keep from warping and to be able to change stuff around easier if I need to.