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alskan... with or without mini mill?

Started by Alexis, February 11, 2008, 07:13:59 AM

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Alexis

Hello,

I will soon start my first small tf project and now need some beam. I tought of buying the alaskan mill. I read all the other post and understand that it will be hard work, but it is not for plank, just for beam.

After attending a tf workshop and seeing how important is a right angle on the beam, I  am wondering if it is possible to cut a nice beam using the alaskan or if it has to be used with the mini mill to cut the side. I understand how to make the top and bottom cut... but how can you achieve a perfect right angle side? Does the mini mill work good enough to do the side cuts after I've done the other with the alaskan? Is there a better small chainsaw mill for cuting beam?

Thanks a lot

Alexis

ironstumper

Alexis,
           I can come close to answering your question. I operate a Lucas that has a slabbing attachment. I did one time take the slab off the top of the log, then use my mini mill to edge the sides and they came out very square......Doug
Rom 8:19 Can't wait!!

Peterrum

I am new to this site as well and I am going to start with the Alaskan Mill and then use the Haddon slabber to take the sides off.  Its similar to the Mini Mill and runs on a 2x6 or a 2x4.  I think I will stick with the 2x6 for more stability.   I haven't had a chance to read the other items in these forums but was very surprised at your comment that others have said the Alaskan is not good for slabbing.  I always assumed that is was and time will tell for myself but I intend to slab with my Alaskan. 

Kevin

I use both the Alaskan and the mini mill but I use two saws as well to save time .
You set the mini up to making straight end cuts or angled cuts on the beam as well.

Greg

Quote from: Alexis on February 11, 2008, 07:13:59 AM
Hello,

I will soon start my first small tf project and now need some beam. I tought of buying the alaskan mill. I read all the other post and understand that it will be hard work, but it is not for plank, just for beam.

After attending a tf workshop and seeing how important is a right angle on the beam, I  am wondering if it is possible to cut a nice beam using the alaskan or if it has to be used with the mini mill to cut the side. I understand how to make the top and bottom cut... but how can you achieve a perfect right angle side? Does the mini mill work good enough to do the side cuts after I've done the other with the alaskan? Is there a better small chainsaw mill for cuting beam?

Thanks a lot

Alexis

Yes, an alaskan + a mini mill are a great, inexpensive combination to cut almost perfectly square beams from logs. I've cut numerous beams that way.

As far as chainsaw size, I'd try doing a search first. Has been discussed many times before. I use a 65cc Jonsered w/24" bar and thats about as small as I'd recommend for this.

Good luck,
Greg

zopi

you can cut nice square beams with an alaskan, I use a pair of UNI Struts as a "ladder" for the slab cut, roll the log
90 deg and set the ladder back on the log and nail it in square..use a long framing square to check the set up for square several places down the log on successive slabs..it might be easier to use a 2x8 or 10 for the slab cuts..I use the uni strut
because I can put jacking bolts down the length of the log to adjust to an uneven log...

as far as saw size...get a pro saw..stihl 361 (or whatever equivalent..) or bigger, If you are going to use a bar bigger than
about 24" you should go into the 440 or 660 range..I use a 660/36" on an alaskanIII..it's pretty quick..but for some (orange)
reason I haven't used the CSM lately... :D

at any rate..get the biggest pro saw you can afford..it makes a HUGE difference.
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

happyj

I use a small alaskan mill with an 028 stihl. It is way to small but, what i had. I use one section of a 24' extention ladder with wedges and straps. After the top and bottom cuts i roll the log over and set up with a square for the other two sides. I am saving for a mill but still working on small stuff. I need to get soem pics posted.

UniStrut you mean like the posts folks use for electrical stuff? How do you make the ladder perpedicular with it? do you have any pics? 

zopi

Quote from: happyj on February 11, 2008, 09:29:17 PM
I use a small alaskan mill with an 028 stihl. It is way to small but, what i had. I use one section of a 24' extention ladder with wedges and straps. After the top and bottom cuts i roll the log over and set up with a square for the other two sides. I am saving for a mill but still working on small stuff. I need to get soem pics posted.

UniStrut you mean like the posts folks use for electrical stuff? How do you make the ladder perpedicular with it? do you have any pics? 

that's the stuff...i made a couple of crosspieces out of perforated angle iron, and bolted them to the unistrut with the square hanger nuts..and with wingnuts to jam the bolts...nail the angle to the ends of the log, and add shims as necessary..





Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

hazard

zopi, I really like the steel rail system.

I use 2x4's with a 2x2 screwed to the inside.  The 2x2 allows me to use hand clamps for clamping to the piece of angle attached to the log.  This way I don't have to cut the log to a specific length.

Yeah a stihl 028 is way undersized.  I thought my 044 was to weak for the mill.  The 066 works good though.

If I was careful I could cut a square cant.  Just as long as your guide is setup correctly and the mill doesn't move.  I have been having problems with the far post sliding.  To much oil on the post.  I have to drill a hole in the post at my desired depth and put some kind of pin in it.

Chris

solodan

Alexis,

The mini mill is definately money well spent. They are pretty cheap, and do a great job at squaring up a cant and squaring up the ends. If you have two saws this method is real productive. I have a Lucas and a slabber, but I still use my Alaskan and mini mill occasionally. :)

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