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Is Live Oak to tough to cut?

Started by gharlan, February 04, 2008, 09:07:32 PM

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gharlan

 I discovered a road expansion the other day and have been watching and waiting for a few large trees to be shoved out. They took them down on Tuesday and I went and procured them for the mill. Here is a pic with one on the trailer.
 
for reference the pipe the winch is mounted on top of is four feet tall.
This morning I halved one with the chainsaw then quartered one half. Here is the first quarter on the mill.

I worked all day and managed to cut up half the log into lumber. Here is a pic as it came off the saw.

Anyway my days work yielded about 150 board feet of  lumber. I started cutting 4/4 but the band usage was killing me so I switched to 6/4's for the last. I used three  new bands to saw this half. I wasted a lot of lumber as I was slabbing heavy to avoid any cuts I did not have to make. By the second cut the bands were making very wavy lumber. I had to feed slowly to produce anything worth saving. The pitch was also a major problem as nothing I tried would keep it off. The entry side looked like ants were building mounds down the cut.
When I bought this little mill last spring I called and ordered 20 bands from Menominee. I think they were the Simmonds, but I can not be sure now. I did not know enough at the time to ask about hook and set and they did not ask either. All the lumber I have found to cut, has been oak. Up till now I have be able to get about 150 bd ft from a band. But this 50 feet per band is a bit much. As you can see from the pic the lumber is really nothing special, just hard.
I guess my question after all this rambling is- Will I get better results from a band with say 4 degree hook. I went to the Wood-Mizer site and shopped for bands online. For extreme hardwood in a frozen state they say 10 degree, but yet the sell 4's too. I think the ones I am using are 14 the best I can measure. Any Ideas?? Who knows how this stuff will dry but at least the logs were straight for Texas live oak.  Thanks Gary

LeeB

I hate to say it , but I told you so. :D :D 50bf/blade is about right. How many horses you got pushing those blades? it takes a few more to push the 4* blades. The 9* might be a little better for you. The pitch build up is tough. Run lots of water to keep the blade cool. Most of it is from the blade overheating which also causes it to dull faster. Besides every thing else, the stuff is just down right hard. It is the densest wood in the U.S.
Now, as for drying, live oak is hard to dry without twist, checking and other degrade. Keep it well shaded and dry very slowly. Once you get it dried be ready to cough up some chips for new blades for your woodworking equip and or new equip. It gets even harder as it dries.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Tom

Yep, Lee's right.  That is some hard stuff.  I will cut it for someone if they really want it.  Usually one time is enough for them.  It eats up shop tools too.  One guy practically destroyed his planner and couldn't even get carbide knives to stay sharp.  "I told you so" is  heard pretty commonly around Live Oak.

It is beautiful wood, but is hard, heavy and checks.   It makes pretty table tops, but women don't move them often.  I have sawn it most frequently for "Tops" and trailer decking.  It will rot but the track vehicles don't tear it up too bad.

LeeB

Having said all that I have a couple thou bf that I intend to floor my basement with. I just trying to get a little more use outa my tools before I trash them and have to by new. :D :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

ErikC

   I don't know if the live oak we have here in CA is the same exact species or not, but it is the hardest thing there is here in these woods. No one will hardly cut it for firewood or lumber, it is so hard to saw & split. I do like the 12 hour fire though!
   I have made several beautiful knife handles with it, the grain seems curly. I think the handles are tougher than the blades. They make a tough resilient handle for peavy or cant hooks. But there is no joy in working that wood, so you rarely see it. Too bad cause it is pretty..


Erik
Peterson 8" with 33' tracks, JCB 1550 4x4 loader backhoe, several stihl chainsaws

gharlan

I have a 20 horse Honda on the Norwood. It really does not have any trouble with it. The bands are the problem they keep tying to do back flips in the cut but the motor does not bog a bit, I think it wants to see the back flips.

It just kills my soul to see these trees go to waste. I have procured three so far with a few 20ish inchers still there. I need to do some repair on the winch mount first though. That #9,000 log reveled a few weaknesses in it.

I have stacked the lumber in the shop against a wall for now to try to slow the drying for a while. I should be able to keep a close eye on it there. After I get it all cut or quit it I will weigh it down with several pallets of granite tile.

If I can find some 4 degree bands do you think it will produce a more respectable footage total?? Would the 9 do just as well?

I had a man stop and ask me if I wanted another one while loading this one. He had one cut down last year and has been trying to burn it since then. So far he has it nicely charred.

I am hoping I will not have to plane this lumber. I hope I can put a 24 grit belt on the sander and start there. Of course those belts are about $50 apiece so we shall see.  Thanks Gary

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

I do love the sort of serpentine look of quartersawn Live Oak.

It's the perfect victim for a swingblade with carbide.

Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

LeeB

I never tried the 4* blades myself, but they might work. The only problem I can see is feed rate with the 4*. Lower feed rate = more heat. The 20 hp might be a little low for the 4*. Ask WM about that. I would pass on the charred log. That stuff is hard enough green. If nothing else it is the best firewood I've ever burned. I sure do miss it for that.
I see Phil posted while I was typing. A swingblade would probably do well. Carbide would definately help.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Fla._Deadheader

 Homey eats them things for breakfast  ::) :D :D :D :D



  We use Munksforsager blades with 10° hook. LOTS of water.  ;) ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

ErikC

 I haven't cut any with the 20 hp honda, but I did with the 13hp, and although I went slower than normal, the swing mill cut it ok. Strait and accurate. You could tell it was no normal wood  though. My tailer was not happy about the weight of those boards either. I don't know what that customer did with it, but he had a few hundred board feet.

Erik
Peterson 8" with 33' tracks, JCB 1550 4x4 loader backhoe, several stihl chainsaws

brdmkr

I'm with Phil.  I have only cut one live oak log, but it was not any big deal with the swinger.  I thought it was considerably easier to cut than any pecan that I have sawn.  The lumber was stunning, but in a bad way.  It had grain and swirls like I have never seen before.  HOWEVER, drying was also shocking.  It warped, cupped, twisted, cracked, and everything else that could go wrong.  I will have to cut everything very short to have anything useful. 

I would like to have a floor in our house made of LO, but given the drying difficulties it will take a heap of sawing to have enough for just a moderate sized room.  Oh, it is HARD to machine.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

New Brunswick

   Is live oak different that red oak? I have cut red oak with a 20 hp onan and a 10 * blade and it cut like butter, it sawed extremely easy, and it had been sitting for about a year.

brdmkr

As I understand it, live oak is really in a group by itself.  Some group it in with white oaks, but it really differs from both.  I thought the log I sawed cut like butter as well, but it dried like a propeller  :D  My experience is with a swingblade and that may make a difference.  To date, pecan has been the most difficult to cut.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

thecfarm

I never heard of Live oak until I got on here.MUST be differant than the Red oak we are use to seeing New Brunswick.I never heard of problems like that with it.Not that it matters,but White oak does not grow around here.Seems like it's down by the coast more.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

New Brunswick

  For me the toughest to mill has been hornbeam (Carpinus Caroliniana) also known as iron wood.(and their not kidding)

LeeB

Most definately a different critter than red oak.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Dodgy Loner

Quote from: New Brunswick on February 05, 2008, 05:38:26 AM
Is live oak different that red oak? I have cut red oak with a 20 hp onan and a 10 * blade and it cut like butter, it sawed extremely easy, and it had been sitting for about a year.

Live Oak
Density: 0.98 g/cm2
Stiffness: 1381 kg/mm2

Red Oak
Density: 0.67 g/cm2
Stiffness: 1153 kg/mm2

White Oak
Density: 0.71 g/cm2
Stiffness:  1251 kg/mm2
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

rfalk

Live oak is one of the most durable woods available, on par with, if not more durable than, black locust and osage orange. In fact, Old Ironsides, the US Navy's oldest commissioned ship (1797) is framed with live oak.  If I got live oak to saw, I would investigate the wood boat building world (check Wooden Boat magazine). My guess is boat builders would pay a premium for properly sized timbers, knees, or other wood boat parts as this wood is pretty scarce.

Bob Falk
USDA Forest Products Lab
Wood engineer, woodworker, chainsaw miller, bandsaw miller, all around lover of wood.
Stihl 026, 361, 076 AV

gharlan

As a follow up I called Wood-Mizer and ordered a box of 4 degree bands today.  Maybe by the end of next week I will have a report of my progress. I guess for now I will hold off milling any more till I get the new bands. I guess since I am the optimistic type I will go and acquire a few more logs this weekend.

rfalk; I had never thought of doing anything with this lumber but using it in projects. But I will go and look at some boat mags and see. It would not hurt to find a need for some of this wood to offset the cost of my personal stash. So thank you for the lead---Gary

ely

i think those logs look like post oak that we have here, except the post oak saws very easy, but it does turn into propellers if you arent careful. the down side is it sometimes turns into propellers if you are careful. ;D

LeeB

looks good ole Central Texas Live oak to me. Hard hard stuff. GAry, if you can debark it it will help some with the blade life, although I also used the bark to clean off the sap.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

gharlan

LeeB  I debarked in the areas where it had any dirt on it. I did notice that an area of bark cleaned up the blade nicely in the cut. Blade life really did not matter though as some were only used after a cant was being cut. I took a 6 gallon fuel jug today and drilled a hole in the bottom, inserted a car valve stem through the hole, attached a sink 3/8 compression angle stop on the stem, and a hose from there to the lube stem on the blade. Works greet in practice today so now I am ready to be able to really run some lube on the blade when I get back to cutting. I hope 6 gallons will make at least a cut or two.

ely  We have a lot of post oak here also. It is mostly what I have found to cut up to now. A great deal of what I cut has been keeping me warm in the shop this winter. Most has been to twisted to even use for stickers which I have found to be a constant need. You would not confuse the live oak for a post if you saw it in person. While the barks look alot the same the leaves are nothing alike. The live oak holds its leaves all year except for early spring when it sheds the old and puts on the new. We rarely get any ice or snow here to amount to anything, but sometimes we will get a spell of ice and the live oaks suffer. All the ice builds up on the leaves  so the weight sometimes rips off huge limbs or splits the tree in two. For that reason I bet they would not due well a lot farther north.

customsawyer

Sounds like that stuff is as hard as carbide tip woodpecker lips.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Slabs

Me n' Canthook cleaved up a big Live Oak a couple of years ago and I can attest to to the hardness and density.  I saved a couple of the larger scraps to make small items around the shop.  Another surprise I got was it's ability to stain my cast-iron tool tables.  even with regular applications of oil to prevent rust the stains remain after a year or more.  Must got some potent tannin in the wood.
Slabs  : Offloader, slab and sawdust Mexican, mill mechanic and electrician, general flunky.  Woodshop, metal woorking shop and electronics shop.

ellmoe

  Tpuogh wood to saw. The 4 degree blades made a big difference, almost easy to saw now. We're running 25 hp electric motors though.

Mark
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

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