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Author Topic: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN  (Read 5455 times)

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Offline submarinesailor

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F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« on: January 29, 2008, 07:10:45 pm »
When I had my transmission flushed a few months ago, the service tech, an ex-marine and a real nice kid, informed me that the right ball joint on my F250 SD diesel was getting loose.  NOTE: He did take the time to show me the difference between the left or right front.  The right is loose.  That was about 10K miles ago.  Now I have a rattle in the right front every time I go over a bump or hit a pot hole.

My question is; how hard is it to replace the ball joints on a 2003 F250 SD diesel?  Should I try it myself?  Or have it done at the dealership?  Other than the wedging tool to clear the ball joints, we should have most of the needed tools.

Also, while we are going the ball joints, should I replace the front wheel spindles?  The truck has almost 153,000 miles on it.  Only had it for 53 months and I can’t believe I have that many miles on it.

Oh and one more thing.  The front pinion seal on the rear deferential is starting to leak.  Can I replace this seal by dropping the drive shaft off, pulling the yoke and popping the seal out?  Or do I need to down the whole differential (hogs head) to replace the front seal.  I think I need a book for this truck???????????? ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)

Bruce

Offline LeeB

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2008, 07:30:33 pm »
Trade it in on a Dodge. :D :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, Ford 851 tractor, JD 3032 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton and 2005 1 ton Dodge 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline Handy Andy

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2008, 07:38:11 pm »
  I don't call myself a great mechanic, but every time I go to work on something, I get a book, and find there could be 3  or so different transmissions,  seems like they buy components from just anywhere for these trucks, is this truck not 4wd?  If not I would just replace the ball joint or joints and pack the front wheel bearings after cleaning and inspecting them to make sure they are not worn out.  Only time I have ever replaced a spindle was when my son was driving an old car we had, and it was making some noise, but he didn't stop till the front wheel fell off, spindle and all.  Just went to a junk yard and got a good one and put it on.  New wheel bearings were not real expensive last time I checked, maybe I would just replace them, making sure they are well packed.  As far as the seal, you should be able to pop it out and replace it, checking the yoke for any wear.  If there is any wear at all replace the front yoke on the driveshaft, as that seal tends to wear a groove, and replacing the seal will not fix your problem.  Jim
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Offline Handy Andy

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2008, 07:41:36 pm »
  I was thinking the leak was at the rear of the transmission, but same goes on your rear end, if there is a groove at all replace the part.
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Offline MartyParsons

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2008, 08:08:16 pm »
Hey Bruce, Is it a 4x4? Yes you will need a ball joint fork and maybe a Ball joint press. It can be done with a hammer and a jack stand. If it is 2 wheel drive you will just need to remove the tire and wheel assembly and press out the Ball joint. A nice web site is www.alldata.com you can get the manuals on line for a small fee for your vehicle for one year. I use this all the time.
If is is a 4x 4 you had better get the manual. I replaced mine on a 1999 F 350 and I removed all parts and the axle and put the greasable ball joints on it. Not bad but it takes some time.
The spindle should not be an issue. Are you worried about the wheel bearings. I have heard of some failing but mine has over 200,000 and has never been a issue. The 99 4x4 is an assembly.
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I also use www.dieselstop.com for information on Ford Diesel trucks.
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Offline Ironwood

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2008, 08:36:20 pm »
LeeB,

 NO COMMENT.

 I think this is not an uncommon occurence if your using the truck, my buddy had to do it on a 2004, it was giving odd codes about the engine, turned out to  be a the ball joint. That diesel is heavy.

                  Ironwood
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2008, 11:50:15 pm »
Bruce, I take it that you're talking about the lower ball joint (instead of the upper one)?  Lower's usually wear out twice as fast as the uppers.

If you're mechanically inclined and have the tools, you can probably do it yourself.  However, you'll need to have the front end realigned once your done, and it might be worthwhile to have a good front end shop do the work and align it all at once.

I would not think that you'd need to replace the spindles (unless they were damaged somehow).  You should repack the wheel bearings and replace the wheel seals though.

Pinion seals are usually replaced by removing the driveshaft and the pinion yoke.  On some vehicles you need a puller to removed the yoke - this can be a pain.  Before you go to that amount of trouble though, remove the driveshaft and see if you have any amount of play in the pinion.  If you do, it will need more than a seal and you do not want to tear into the rear end at home.

If you're planning to keep the truck for a while, with 150K miles on it you may want to consider rebuilding the entire front end (lower ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm (if equipped), pittman arm, and shocks all around).

Scott
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Offline ScottAR

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2008, 01:02:29 am »
I recently changed the ball joints on my '99 F350 4x2.  It's not that complicated,
but it does require a ball joint press and some basic tools.  The chilton manual I have
does not explain the ball joint procedure but tells you how to remove the steering
knuckle.  I used the book mainly for torque specs.   The 4x4 model is fairly similar in
procedure except the 4x4 has a hub assembly and the 4x2 has old style bearings.
Four bolts and the hub just comes off.  Sit down when pricing the assembly. 

The upper ball joints on my truck were ok but I changed them anyway as the new ones are greasable and I don't like doing jobs twice.  Takes a couple hours a side.  A vise would have saved me some headache as holding the knuckle still and working the press at the same time was a pain. 

You'll need 15,18,21,27mm sockets, and a 1 1/8" wrench for the castle nuts.
The ball joint press, jack and stands, good size hammer, and a ft lb. torque wrench that'll go to around 100 ft lbs.  Four joints should run about $100 give or take.

Go to amazon.com and search ball joint press for pictures.  Looks like a beefy C clamp with some adapters to fit over or on the press. 

As for the pinion seal, it's not complicated either but you'll need an inch pound torque
wrench (0-40ish inch pounds) for the bearing preload setting on the pinion nut.  Going inside the case shouldn't be needed. 

Measure the preload on the yoke nut before disassembly, Mark the nut and count the threads so you know how close your getting when torquing the nut back on.  Take off
driveshaft marking the ujoint position.  Take of yoke nut and yoke.  Pry out seal and replace.  Retorque pinion nut to spec that you measured and put the driveshaft back on. 

HTH

Scott
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Offline submarinesailor

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2008, 05:53:35 am »
Thanks for all the info.  I’m hoping that I can hold off until the weather gets a little warmer – hate working on cold wet ground.  Also, I think I will go ahead and do both sides, top and bottom at the same time.

Scott – Not to long ago I went ahead and got a package deal for front end alignments on my truck from NTB.  All the alignments I want for 3 years.  So, I have it done about once very 6 months – really helps on the tires and fuel mileage.  The roads here in northern Virginia make it a real good deal.

Will let you know the results after I attempt/complete the work.

Bruce

Offline flip

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2008, 07:21:56 am »
Don't mess with it yourself unless you have the seal drivers to put in the vacuum seals in the knuckles and on the axles shafts. The balls press in and out of the knuckles.  The book gives 5.9 hours plus alignment and it takes my guys most of that to do the job and we have done hundreds since they went to this design.  Tell them you want the greasable joints or else expect the same thing in 50K miles. 
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Offline moosehunter

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2008, 07:38:12 am »
Back to post one;
 You need a ball joint. No doubt about that.
I would be suprized if that fixes the rattle though. Ball joints rarely make niose. Your stabilizer bar mounts are the more likely cause of the rattle.

 Check with your local chain auto parts store for the ball joint press, they may loan you one with the purchase of the joints or rent it to you cheap.

 What the others said, get the greasable ones and replace them both on that side - you've got it apart anyway!

mh
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Offline Lud

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2008, 08:52:14 am »
I'm  not a natural gearhead but I did work HR for Ford for 34.3 years so my blood runs blue.  Pop worked for them before I did.  Still working the 57' Ford 841 PowerMaster here at the farm.........BUT IT IS A FACT............SOMETIMES STUFF GETS WORN OUT AND WE NEED TO REPLACE !  Or just want a different set of headaches, maybe.

Anyway, should any of all y'all be considering a purchase of a Ford product,  send me a note and I could generate a X-pin that might save you some money or improve your negotiating position.  May save you a few thou on an F series.
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2008, 10:26:42 am »
Lud - thanks for the offer.  My last four purchase have all been on the X-plan and it's a great program.

Scott
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Offline submarinesailor

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #13 on: January 30, 2008, 12:23:17 pm »
Ok, I have got to ask.....What's an X-plan??????????  I got one hell of a deal on this one.  The list was just under 41K and I got it for just over 32K, taxes and all.

Bruce

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #14 on: January 30, 2008, 12:54:17 pm »
X plan on a pickup or any other vehicle is basically dealer invoice.  Rebates and different plans can be lumped on top of it too.  X plan pins can be given to up to 8 ??? people/friends a year.  X plans are given to employees of Ford Linc or Merc. or a company that is a supplier of Ford.  Saves a lot of dickering  with the sales guys and you know what/where invoice is.  Since I am at a dealer I get D plan but can only use 2 a year and it can only be given to family or inlaws :( and is about 800-1200 under invoice. 
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Offline Polly

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #15 on: January 30, 2008, 04:12:07 pm »
   :)        make sure the vent tube on the read axle is not stopped up causing the pinion seal to leek  :-[ i had it happen to me only it was causing axle bearing seals to leek ::)

Offline ErikC

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #16 on: January 30, 2008, 10:43:57 pm »
  I have a 2000 F250 4 wheel drive. If you want to pack the wheel bearings-no luck.It's a sealed hub unit worth about 500 bucks a side. I've put in a couple. 200,000+ miles. Also ball joints. Thats the Logging road/diesel engine combo I guess!


Erik
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Offline logwalker

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #17 on: January 30, 2008, 11:01:41 pm »
Just a thought on Ford ball joints. Check your psi in your tires and don't go over the suggested pressure. You will find it inside the drivers door on the gvw sticker. On a 3/4 ton diesel it is about 60 lbs. The E tire is rated at 80 and a lot of the tires shops put that much in. That by itself will knock them out pretty fast. The ride is better at 60 too. Joe
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Offline submarinesailor

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #18 on: January 31, 2008, 05:49:56 am »
Joe,

I run all my tires at 55 PSI unless I put a load on.  Then I will go to 65-75 depending on the load.

Those sealed bearing arethat much?!?!?!?!?  Maybe I will hold off on them or just do one at a time; a couple months apart.

Bruce

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #19 on: January 31, 2008, 09:32:02 am »

 SOOoooooooooo

  This X-plan = BRIBE, to getcha to buy them ferds, EH ???   ;D ;D ;D :D :D
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Offline flip

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #20 on: January 31, 2008, 10:01:20 am »
A, X and D plan=reward ::) for working for Ford either directly or indirectly.  Most of the time if you are buying new you will be working off of or at invoice.  The competition between dealers for business is so fierce there are times the dealer will actually LOSE money on a deal if it helps them meet their stair step goals.  Another buying hint, if you are buying and the F&I department tells you there is a "doc" or document fee, tell them to shove off.  It is another way they can hose you for a few hundred bucks.  No state requires a doc fee to be collected.  The dealers south of us in a larger city all charge this fee because they can and site the fact that "everyone else does it".  This little fee helps make up for any loss the dealer might have on a close deal.  It's BS and it's dirty.
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Offline ScottAR

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #21 on: February 01, 2008, 11:52:43 pm »
I forgot, a couple days ago, Lisle sent out a product update.  They are making
a seal driver for the hub seals on the super duties.  At least it's available from
somebody besides OTC/rotunda now. 
Scott
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Offline Dana

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #22 on: February 02, 2008, 07:12:16 am »
  Another buying hint, if you are buying and the F&I department tells you there is a "doc" or document fee, tell them to shove off.  It is another way they can hose you for a few hundred bucks.  No state requires a doc fee to be collected.  This little fee helps make up for any loss the dealer might have on a close deal.  It's BS and it's dirty.
Flip you are right that it isn't required by the state. However if a dealer charges one customer for this fee, then they have to charge all customers for the fee. At that point I would tell them fine, you can show a document fee. But now you can knock off from the selling price enough to cover the fee.

I owned a very small used car dealership and never charged the fee. As you say its just another way to hose the customer.
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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #23 on: February 03, 2008, 08:45:56 pm »
 8) 8)    its amazing how old horse traders turned into young truck traders    :D :D

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Re: F-250 Super Duty Advice – AGAIN
« Reply #24 on: February 04, 2008, 09:56:49 pm »
I have a F250 also but with 129000 miles, my truck had a rattle in the right front also. It sounded like a loose shock.  It was a spring hanger bushing that was dry. Sprayed it with some lube and the rattle stopped.