Help - Sawing Bridge Timbers?

Mark M · May 09, 2003, 03:04:51 PM

I got a call from a fellow today who has a large number of bridge timbers from a railway trestle he disassembled. He is interested in having them sawed into something smaller, maybe some 3 inch planks or some landscape timbers.

The problem is I have never sawed bridge timbers before so I don't know if there are special problems. Also I don't know how much to charge him. I want to get as much as I can but don't want to over charge him. I was thinking maybe something like $40 an hour. It's about 150 mile drive but he said he had about 50 truck loads of timbers so this could be just what I need to get a good start and maybe upgrade to one of dem big Woodmizers or sumptin like dat some day. The timbers are probably pressure treated with creosote so I know I need to take necessary precautions and avoid the dust, but anything else I need to know? I am going to go get a couple tomorrow and see if I can saw them.

Thanks in advance

Mark

biziedizie · May 09, 2003, 03:17:56 PM

Mark be careful with the dust it makes you feel sick and it's bad for you.
  I've cut 2 creosote beams and I won't cut them again. Found that the saw slows down and the blade doesn't last that long plus it always feels like the blade is binding. Had some smoke come out the other end as well.
  Have a good shave in the morning and wear a good mask.

   Steve

Jason_WI · May 09, 2003, 03:23:03 PM

No matter how the $$$ looks, sawing anything with creosote in it isn't worth it.

If you do then buy lots of blades because the stuff is hard on blades.

Jason

Jeff · May 09, 2003, 04:02:53 PM

Here is a snipit from an old thread with some pointers on sawing power poles. Probably pretty close reletive to a bridge timber.

https://forestryforum.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?board=sawmill;action=display;num=996183584;start=10#5

dail_h · May 09, 2003, 04:18:48 PM

Mark,
Be sure to check for metal,3/4 in bolts are pretty tuff on blades.Also be sure to wear long sleeves,if I sweat every piece of sawdust causes a blister.If you can make it pay go for it

BW_Williams · May 09, 2003, 11:41:08 PM

Mark, I have cut several MBFT of power poles, including the butts (can you say butts on the internet?) that are heavily treated with creasote. I had free use of a WM LT24 for the first bunch, I bought a swingmill. I really think you should charge by the hour and something for the blades. Maybe you could try a couple before committing to the lot? Yesterday I sold 430 bft @ .50/bft and the fellow was tickled. Wear all the approipiate safety gear, work on cool or rainy days. After reading the link Jeff B posted, I can't believe the EPA would rather have the whole pole taking up landfill space as opposed to a few slabs! BWW

Ron Wenrich · May 10, 2003, 05:01:04 AM

You won't be cutting pine, that's for sure. You'll be cutting old, dry oak that has been pressure treated. They will be big and heavy. They will also be pretty dirty.

I'm not sure how far the treatment goes into these timbers. You might be able to slab heavy and get past a good deal of the treatment. Maybe not.

The thing to consider is who is going to take care of the sawdust and slab removal. It will be viewed as a hazardous waste.

Maybe you can get one of those chem suits they use in the Army.

Fla._Deadheader · May 10, 2003, 05:10:41 AM

We have our eye on a spot that had a crossing of a small river. The timbers are supposed to be in the water. We will check into it later on. Heard they are so heavy that 2 guys thought they would take some home. Got them to the edge of the river and quit?? They were from the logging trains here getting the large Cypress out. They could be Pine or Cypress???? Doubt if they are treated??

Tim · May 10, 2003, 05:58:18 AM

There are some jobs that are not worth it, never mind the price Mark... Resawing bridge timbers would fall into that catagory in my mind. Think slag, steel, and the afore mentioned creasote. If you were to take it, charge him many because by the time you finish the first day of it, you are going to be questioning the value of the job.

Here is another question you should be asking... Will he be able to sell the resawn material in order to pay you your due? What is his market? It isn't like anyone is going to be using this material to build a fine set of cupboards.

Jeff · May 10, 2003, 06:04:55 AM

I think I would buy 1 timber from him. Saw the thing and see what it takes. That would give you an idea of the problems and expenses involved. Then charge him a huge price that would make you a huge profit. Let him make the hard disisions and take the risk, not you.

Mark M · May 10, 2003, 06:27:09 AM

Hi Everyone

Thanks for the advice. I am going up there today to take a look and pick up one or two timbers. I'm not as optimistic as I was yesterday but I will check it out. I am not too worried about handling the material as I work around dangerous chemicals quite frequently, and it will be sawed at his location so he will be responsible for the dust and waste. If I do it I'll have to make sure he knows the waste may be considered hazardous.

Wish me luck :-/

Mark

Larry · May 10, 2003, 06:28:28 AM

I sawed some bridge timbers a few years ago. None of them were treated. The wood was white oak and a funny looking wood that we thought was chestnut. The cracks were filled with years of crud so the timbers were harder on bands than treated poles. Gave up after a few timbers because of the band problem but some of the wood was nice looking.

I wouldn't hesitate to try a few just to see what they are if you could get the guy to bring a few to you. They might not be as bad as the ones I cut.

Percy · May 10, 2003, 04:48:10 PM

I cut a bunch of cresote treated WRC poles a few years back and I wouldnt do it again. Just me of course but it was so hard on blades. I set up with the wind at my back and slabed heavy, then turned the log so as I was cutting into a clean face. That helped with the blades but the guy who had me cut it, sold most of it for fencing and those fences still stink. As far as being an enviromental hazard, how come it was ok to have them treated tressel/bridge beams over a river/creek for so many years, then when they get taken down,they are bad....confuses me.... :

biziedizie · May 10, 2003, 05:03:34 PM

Yeah the good old days when you could kick a bucket of gas over and let it spill into the creek and nobody seemed to care :D

Steve.

Mark M · May 10, 2003, 08:34:59 PM

Well I decided to pass on the timbers. Spent most of the day driving up to New Town to check them out but don't think I can do anything with them. Most have lots of big metal bolts and re-bar like metal sticking out of them and many have road tar with rocks. There were some that might be saw-able but I don't think I could do it for a reasonable price and the quality would at best be questionable. Also I know enough to listen to people with experience (even if I don't always follow their advice).

My wife and I did however have a nice time up to the res and saw (as in seen) some nice scenery in the Killdeer Mountains. I'll post some pictures later on over in the outdoors/travel section.

Thanks again for the help.

Mark

chet · May 10, 2003, 08:55:13 PM

Mark I know you want to saw, :-/ but I think you made a wise decision to pass. I wouldn't saw that stuff if it was free, and I got to keep the lumber.

SteveS · May 11, 2003, 01:24:37 AM

I just sawed some cresote bridge timbers for the first time. They had large bolts through the ends of them. I didnt need the full lenght so I just trimmed the ends to get rid of most of the metal. I got me some nice poles for my saw shed now

I sliced some switch ties in half after the timbers, the ties were saturated quite a bit more. The dust from sawing the ties did burn my skin a little, sort of like sunburn.

Tim · May 11, 2003, 05:36:11 AM

Something thos timbers are excellent for is pile bottoms. They rot but, it take on awful pile of time to do so. I have a bunch of them around here. A couple of them have date nails that say 1930's.
I put them down and put a board that isn't treated on top of them, then the pack of lumber. Four to a street and then the piece of untreated get the pack high enough to keep good air flow under the pack as well, and high enough to keep the grass from being an issue. We are so environmentally conscience around here that we don't even cut the grass... :D

Minnesota_boy · May 11, 2003, 06:58:22 AM

In this area, railroad ties are commonly sold for landscaping and fence posts. Many oif these make excellent pile foundations. I saw out a few 1x1 stickers and put them on top of the ties so the lumber never touches the creosoted tie. These 1x1 peices make a pretty small contact area so I shouldn't get much discoloration from them. I put 2 stickers on the end ties (one on each side of the tie) so the ties won't roll if the ground gets soft (had that happen once, not fun) and one sticker on the rest, centered on the tie. The next layer only gets one sticker per tie, lined up with the one below except the end sticker is out near the end of the pile and only one sticker.

ARKANSAWYER · May 12, 2003, 05:59:31 AM

Sawing them timbers would have been tuff. They often make good wood but there is a cost. I saw alot of power poles and there are risk involved. I have sit in the river and seen the oil slicks coming from bridges and tressels and have often wondered how the Gov could allow this.
I save the sawdust here at the house and use it in the bottom of holes for post of pole barns and such. It will kill the grass and have spread it out under where I keep lumber stacked.
But it is a good way to improve blade inventory at someone else's expence. ;D
ARKANSAWYER