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Photographing furniture (PICS)

Started by ohsoloco, January 22, 2008, 07:51:22 PM

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ohsoloco

Whenever I build a piece of furniture, I like to take some pictures of it before I deliver it.  So far my attempts have been poor, at best  ::)  I really want to make a decent portfolio. 

Does anyone have any tips as far as the best lighting, background, etc.?  I'm currently building a coffee table, and would like to take some nice pictures of it.

SwampDonkey

Me to, to both points in your last sentence. I'm also building a table and would like to see your pics to. :) I find lighting, don't have it too bright on the piece it glares. And being closer than 4 feet puts your camera out of focus and some cameras will warn you your out of focus. Zoom affects this to. Macro usually requires you to be really close, within a foot or less. Sometimes you can touch up brightness and contrast in Photoshop or some other program. Crop out areas that don't contribute to the subject and also reduces file size.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Dave Shepard

What type of camera do you have? Point and shoot, DSLR, SLR ? there is a thread on photography that I started in the General Board that has some great advice. I have been doing a lot of studying lately as I want to get a DSLR. You will find that you need to have the piece well lit, but usually not with direct light. You need to diffuse it through something, or reflect it off the ceiling or walls. I have found that if you have direct light bouncing off of your piece, it can really mess with the auto features on the camera, and you will end up with a very dark photo. Flash can work for or against you, I have found.


Dave
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

ohsoloco

I don't know off hand what kind of digital camera I'm using, since it's not mine  :-\  I have a few pics in my gallery of a bed I made, and made the mistake of placing it in the client's room before taking any pics...right in front of the windows   :(  They're so dark I almost didn't post them. 

What's the best way for a non-photographer to diffuse light (other than the ceiling thing)  ???  I was wondering if taking pics outside would be better, or placing the furniture on a sheet...that kind of stuff.  I guess the macro feature would be good for taking some shots of the grain (I'm using some crotch walnut for the legs....you'll see). 

SD, I want to take some pics while I'm building (I like the fact that you document the whole process for us curious types  ;)  ).  The lighting in my shop isn't the best, but maybe I'll play around with some pics tonight or tomorrow.  I have all of the pieces and joinery cut, so I'm down to final shaping and sanding.  I love this cold weather we're having, but I usually do my sanding outside since I'm in a basement shop so it may be a little while before I can get any sanding done. 

I'd love to hear any other ideas, and I'll check out that thread you mentioned Dave.

Furby

For tables it will take a larger piece, but a piece of black velvet makes a great back ground.
Can even let it flow across the floor if you wish.
A gray or even off white back ground can be used as well.

If you have a room with a white ceiling, aim your lights torwards it and bounce the light.
You can add a shield around the light in order to aim it more towards the ceiling and get a better bounce.
It order to get rid of the shadows under the tables and such, aim your lights away from the item and use reflectors of white or gray cardboard and other such things to bounce it back at the subject.
Even a plain brown piece of cardboard will reflect some light, if it didn't, we wouldn't be able to see it.
The color of your reflector will affect the hue of your image.
A green tarp will give an over all green cast to it and so on.

A diffuser over the lightsource can allow the light to be aimed at the the subject, but the amount of diffusion will need to either be variable or the strength of light variable.
Some forms of diffusers are old thin sheets and other such things.
You can buy diffusers for fluorescent ceiling lights that come in different strengths and patterns as well.
The important thing is to make sure what ever you use as a reflector or diffuser doesn't sit too close to the light source and catch fire, depending on what you use for light.

Different light sources give different temperatures of light and affect the final image.
Play around with incandescents, fluorescents and other light sources.

Background and proper lighting will solve a large number of common problems that you'll find.
The final image is all about the setup, and will pay off if you take the time to experiment.
Digital cameras make experimenting much, much easier and faster than older methods of image making did.

If you do shoot outside, you want an overcast day or the diffused light under a tree or such.
Shooting outdoors it is much harder to control your light source as the weather is always changing.
The nice part about shooting still subjects inside, is that you have all the time in the world to get it right.

metalspinner

I just spent a long day with a television production crew.  70% of their time was spent on lighting.  I was watching their monitor as they were making lighting changes, and I couldn't tell one bit of difference after the change was made.  They have trained themselves to pick up the most subtle changes.  We had a scene outside and they mentioned the sun was "too hot."  The director says, "We need to cancel the sun." :D  Only he was not kidding. :o An assistant said, "I have a light for that."  Out comes this light that actually cancelled the sun. :o
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Haytrader

Mrs. Hay took a lot of pictures of her projects today for advertising purposes.
She tried different angle and backgrounds.
What looked best in my opinion was a dark green sheet which was not smoothed out and then laying the object on that.
Haytrader

Dave Shepard

Even with an understanding of lighting, experimentation plays an important part in getting the shot right. I have been playing with the features on my point and shoot, but it is very limited. That is why I am going to make the jump to a DSLR. Taking pictures inside is the worst for my camera, no flash, and it comes out dark, use the flash, and you get hot spots.


Dave
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Ianab

You dont NEED to go to a DSLR to get good shots.

Most of the higher end non-DSLR cameras have exposure compensation as a minimum, and ones like my Sony H7 have full manual controls if you want to use them.

But the setup and lighting are the most important. You want a non-cluttered background that doesn't take anything away from the subject. That can be a sheet, a distant background thats deliberatly out of focus, or a nice clear green lawn, it has to leave the subject as the most important part of the picture.

The best pics I have taken have been on a green lawn under an overcast sky. The overcast gives a much more even light, the camera will adjust for the light level as long as it's reasonable. A carport or a big tree can give the same effect, and you can allways adjust the exposure to get the shot you want.

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Dave Shepard

I wasn't suggesting that one had to buy a DSLR to get good pics, but I am, as I have gotten rather into photography, and am at a point where interchangeable lens, among other features, is important. I looked at the H9 Sony, which is a very competent camera.  :)


Dave
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

ohsoloco

I've always heard that furniture pics turn out really well on nice, green grass...wait, I don't have any of that right now  ::)  The pics I took in the shop last night are cluttered (obviously), and it definitely make it harder to see what you're looking at.  I'll have to experiment with different blankets and sheets.  This morning I thought the living room would be a good place to start, I just have to get up early enough.  My picture window faces east, and there was nice light in there on this sunny morning with the curtains closed.

Robert Long

ohsoloco

Do all of the above!   But take it out side even if it's snowing, find a sheltered area and take it out side. ;)

Robert

ohsoloco

No sheltered areas outside to speak of, and no leaves on the yard trees.  I'll try some overcast day.  I'll just have to keep experimenting, cuz I really would like a nice portfolio  :)

ohsoloco

Here we go.  I took some pictures the other night in my dark shop, and I was surprised how well they turned out once I saw them on the computer.  I'm sure making it look good (showing the grain) once it's finished will be a challenge though.


I was disappointed when I discovered the included bark in this walnut crotch that I sawed.  What in the world would I do with these  ???  :( 



Well, I got to thinking, and decided to cut them short and just use the included bark edge in the furniture (these arent the same pieces that are in the previous picture)



This is how I like to construct my breadboard ends.  I cut a 1/2" deep groove along the breadboards with a dado blade, and then make the mortices with a forstner bit, chisel, and lots of test fits  ;)





Here it is after a test fitting





The bottom stretcher that will hold the shelf was done with a through mortice and wedge.   The wedge is white oak....the same as the breadboards. 



The shelf will be made with the other halves of the crotch pieces.  I'm still debating on whether I will biscuit them to the stretcher (no visible fasteners), or screw and plug them (which I think will be stronger). 

This table is for a client.  I'm also making another one at the same time either for myself, or anyone that may want to buy it. 

metalspinner

 8) 8) 8)

No picture in the world can make that table look bad. 8)  Those legs are really going to pop once finished.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

SwampDonkey

Yeah, once you get done rubbing and polishing her legs and table top, she's going to be a beaut. Gonna make the curl around the crotch wood pop your eyes out.  ;D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Dave Shepard

That is a great looking table! 8) I like trestle tables the best. I know where there is a medieval German trestle table lurking not far from me. It's twin is in the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston. Solid walnut.


Dave
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

david_keith

I stumbled across this thread today, see my website link  --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!--/gallery/5947524_pYmhn#370693833_8gVeK and browse the images and ask me how I lit them. 8)   

dk
dk

Ironwood

Lighting is SOOOO key. Love the "cancel the sun" comment. If you really want good pics hire a pro. I have spent thousands of dollars w/ a buddy of mine. He always needs tools, and wood for his wood hobby (thank goodness), that said, you can try yourself. Set a side a large enough shop area for a "shoot". Get a seemless roll of your favorite color paper (these are reuseable, but BIG) from a photo supply shop, try State College in your area. Treat the paper w/ respect as it wrinkles easy and also blemishes. Then EXPERIMENT w/ your digital (I say "yours" because you will need to get to know the camera and your lighting and this takes time). If shooting outside as stated, they are right on with overcast being best.  I find pro shots are far and above the best.

Ironwood



There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

ohsoloco

Ironwood, do you use the paper on the floor as well as the wall?  I'm guessing, since that table looks like it's "just there". 

The photographer that is going to do our wedding is giving us a "free" session in her studio.  After careful consideration I don't think Denise will go along with my idea of having some furniture photographed instead of us  :-\  :D  I may just talk with her and see what she'd charge to photograph furniture....she'd already have the background and lighting already taken care of. 

Ironwood

O,

Try visiting a shoot somewhere. The seamless rests on a couple tripods behind and arcs downward to the floor and out toward the camera. It is pretty simple once you see it set up. Lighting is the key, even w/ a seamless.

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

david_keith

 Yes, hire a professional commerical or editorial photographer to photograph your wood working artwork, you will come out cheaper in the long run money wise  and your time is spent more productive in building wood projects and sawing lumber.  If you feel like you have a calling to be a shutterbug,  hiring a graphic designer to color correct off-color images and add specular highlights to your images to get that professional look would be another way to go at it. 
Overcast days are better than direct flash from P&S camera's or even DSLR's with top mounted portable flash units.  It takes a hard lit to bring out the texture in wood grain and Fresnel lights are one of  the industry standard tools that photographer's use in either strobe, HMI or tungten based lighting units.  That's the way most furniture catalogs & advertising is lit for the past 85 years, you will also need a soft fill light as well.
It's a big learning curve and the equipment can become very expensive real fast but anybody who can build timeless furniture can learn how to take better images of there woodworking projects.  Most communinty colleges teach a evening digital photography course and you could have access to there camera's, computer's, photo editing software "photoshop CS3 or CS4, lighting gear and photo  studios with seamless paper to capture your works of art and the cost is very low and you don't have to buy all that expensive photo gear and materials.  I would go that route first before I invested a lot of money into seamless paper and light stands, lights  etc, etc. 

Some food for thought.

dk


dk

Ironwood

David is right on, except a seamless is fairly cheap, and can be hung from a rafter or what have you. This alone will make your images look better. The seamless, if treated well will last for a while (take your shoes off when walking to move your projects and keep a clean cloth near to clean blemishes). Then experiment with your camera w/ out fancy lighting, it will still be a ways to get "pro images", but at least you are starting down the road. I spend a TON of time w/ my photo guy on lighting (GOOD lighting effects) and his depth and breadth of knowlege makes it obvious that this is truely a realm for a pro. The seamless is a start to a professional image.

Ironwood (builder,  NOT photographer)
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Dodgy Loner

Lots of good information on this thread, but I just had to say Ironwood - that curly cherry bench is incredible.  I love the way the edges oscillate in synch with the grain.  The ebonized (I'm assuming) legs match perfectly with the top - no grain to detract from the figured top, but they still have plenty of architectural interest.  Fantastic work! :)


"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

ohsoloco

david, that's the one drawback to working second shift...can't take evening classes  :-\  I've always wanted to take a welding course at the local tech school, but I'm not available at the times they offer it  :(

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