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Unisaw blade and dust?

Started by Brad_bb, January 22, 2008, 01:07:53 AM

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Brad_bb

I recently acquired a 1953 Unisaw in the best condition you'd ever want to find.  Two questions:  What would be the best blade for me to get for it (10").  It currently has a 10" Craftsman carbide tipped blade, but now sure if it's cutting as fast as it should.  Also, do you guys take the time to clean pitch etc off a blade?   I have lacquer thinner handy so it wouldn't be much trouble.
Lastly, my unisaw didn't have the dust collection cover that goes over the motor when I bought it.  Are there any reproductions available?  Sure i could probably take the time to make a wooden one, but I'd rather have an original if possible.
Thanks, Brad
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

flip

Depends if you are doing a lot of ripping or crosscutting.  I use a thin kerf Freud for ripping and if I am doing much crosscutting I put in a Forrest Wood Worker 2.  The Freud line is less expensive and does a good job for the $$.  I generally don't have a pitch problem with the woods I use.
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

metalspinner

I stopped switching blades around when I recieved the Forrest Woodworker II.  It is a very nice blade.  Sending it out to get resharpened is a pain, though.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Larry

Blades I use...and even with pictures for your enjoyment.  Reply #37 on the second page.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,24381.20.html

I worked in a shop where we sawed a lot of Formica for signs and also quite a bit of hardwood ply.  We cleaned the blades maybe every 10 to 20 hours with lacquer thinner.  In my home shop, with just hardwood I still clean with lacquer thinner...but it might be several months apart and only if I need a perfect splinter free cut.

For rectangular motor covers I have been buying Grizzly...you have to fab up a hinge.  If it is a egg cover which I suspect you have good luck.  Originals come up for sale on eBay and there are some reproductions out there...both are quite expensive.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Brad_bb

Where are these repos?  Someone else mentioned it on another site (owwm.org) but didn't tell me where to look for them.  I haven't found any repos via google.
Thanks for the replies on blades.  $110 for a blade is pretty expensive, but if it's worth it, it's worth it.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

shopteacher

Take a look at the systematic line of blades.  I use them at school and at home. I also have the Forrest blade and dado set at home.  The Forrest is only slightly better than the systematic from what I've seen, but a lot harder on the pocket book.

I've seen the egg shape covers on ebay and they do go for a good bit, but haven't seen the repro's.  If you could find some one who had one you could layup one out of fiberglass and marine epoxy using the original as a mold.  Sand and paint it and only you would know.
Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
Tilt Bed Truck  and well equipted wood shop.

Kcwoodbutcher

Google unisaw or delta parts, I remember seeing one from one of the aftermarket suppliers very close to the top of the list.
My job is to do everything nobody else felt like doing today

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