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Should I buy a chainsaw mill?

Started by peter nap, January 05, 2008, 10:59:12 AM

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peter nap

I am starting a Pole Barn that has turned into a post and beam Barn and I expect will turn into a full timber frame barn. :o

I'm an experienced carpenter and I am brand new to timber framing except for several traditional boats I built. In other words, I know nothing and freely admit it!

After pricing beams, siding, etc, I have started to wonder if it wouldn't be cheaper to buy a chainsaw and mill attachment, (I have a couple of saws but my biggest is a Husky 445 and I don't think it's up to the job}....and cut my own lumber. I have trees.

Any opinions and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

gharlan

I will confess that I have never seen a chainsaw mill work. I do use a chainsaw to quarter the logs that will not fit on my little band mill.  I am impressed at how quickly I can rip a 40 inch oak log. It is extremely slow however compared with how quickly the band cuts through that same log. My mill is a manual one that I have had for about 9 months. It works great but I already dream of one with hydraulics because handling the log is a lot of work. I suspect the chain mill would be even more work. I have no doubt that the chain mill can produce good lumber, but I bet you would be happier if you could scout around and find a good used band mill. You could always sell it after you are finished and recoup your money, if you can tolerate letting it go after you use it. If you ask around here maybe you can find someone around here that has both close to you and you can watch them in action and get your own feel for what would work best for you.  good luck and happy sawing

peter nap

Thanks Garlin. A small mill is going to be a little more than I want to put into it.

It just occurred to me that I should have put this in chainsaws instead. I'm going to post it there so please ignore this one.

Tom

Peter,
The chainsaw mills have their place, but, if you work in wood and think you might cut more than a log or two a week, you would be better off with a little bandmill.  Norwood, woodmizer lt15, Timberking 1220, or some similar push mill that you can get into for less than $6 grand.  You will gain in speed that will make up the difference of the cost of a bandmill and chainsaw mill.

If you are carrying the mill into the woods and carrying the timbers back out, then a chainsaw mill might make sense if the going is real rough.

ErikC

I have had some experience with chainsaw mills. They are a lot of work, and I wouldn't run one on a regular basis. But they do cut good accurate lumber. The secret is keep the chain very sharp, and use a BIG saw. Some of the places around here were built in large part with one of those mills, and the results are impressive. If you don't mind hard work and saw fumes they can get the job done.

Erik
Peterson 8" with 33' tracks, JCB 1550 4x4 loader backhoe, several stihl chainsaws

cantcutter

YES

If you cant afford a bandmill a chainsaw mill is the second best thing, maybe get a ripsaw as well.

Yeah I meant ripsaw, my fingers move faster than my brain sometimes :D

peter nap

Thanks Guys!
Cantcutter, what is a ripsay?

Dave Shepard

I believe he meant Ripsaw. It is a small bansaw, I think it is powered by a chainsaw head. You would use it to make boards after you made a cant with the Alaskan.


Dave
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

cantcutter

Here is a link
http://www.ripsaw.com/ripsaw.html

Its kinda pricey, but a far cry from the 5-6K you would spend on a manual bandmill.

thecfarm

I think you're going to have to buy a much bigger saw.New will be $1000 I would think.Too bad you could not come up with the dollars to buy a used manual bandsaw.Much quicker and easier.I only see the chainsaw mills at the shootouts they have.They are some slow and this is at a show where everything is nice and sharp.Can you sharpen a chain on a chainsaw so that it cuts like new all the time?I know I can't.I can do pretty good,but not good enough for what you want to do.I bought a bandmill.For the amount I saw I probaly could of bought a chainsaw mill.But the extra dollars was worth it.Good luck.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

peter nap

Good advice from everybody, thanks!

Here arew the issues I'm looking at. The place I'm building on is remote. I can get there on a tractor, ATV or Shanks Mule!

My trees are even more remote. The tractor won't go there...or at least with ME on it.

Money is always an issue but I can afford a larger mill, but getting it to the trees or getting the trees to it, is a major problem.

I needs posts right now. Longish ones 16' to 20'. The bandsaw mills won't cut that length (Or from my reading) without add ons that will kick the price up another four or five hundred dollars.

I need 12 of the longer posts and they will cost me about 1000,00 per the best price I've gotten so far. I can buy a good saw and the Alaskan mill for about 1200.00 and I still have a good saw and the mill left over. I doubt it will take much time to saw enough to make the difference up.The last issue I'm wrestling with is one I don't like to think about. I am reluctantly getting older/ I can't lift 350 pounds anymore. I'm not sure I can get the logs on the bandsaw without the tractor or a helper which I don't have.

I'm still not sure which route to take if any. I am NEW at working with unseasoned wood and I have Pine and very few hardwoods. I don't know if any poles or beams I cut will be usable within the time frame I have laid out.

Decisions, decisions ;D




Stephen1

I think your biggest problem is getting the logs, even with a chainsaw mill, squaring the timbers you will still have to haul out of your bush 16-20 foot beams. the chainsaw mill is a long tiring way to work( I know) I picked up a used band mill for $2500, it will cut 17' long, sits on a trailer so I can haul it to and thru my bush.  I will have spent after new bearings, about $500 more to fix it up including 14 new blades.
I would keep looking for a used mill, with your economy going down the tubes there will be a lot available. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

cantcutter

If you can figure a way to get the logs out and a mill in you can hire a sawyer to mill it out for you for less than 1000.00. 12 logs with four cuts each will not a day as long as they are straight.

Furby

If you can't get anything back there to get the logs out, then as was said, you will have to carry the beams out and you are talking about several hundred pounds each.
Most manual band mills will setup on the ground or just off it allowing you to roll a log up shallow ramps. Don't need a tractor for that.
If you get a mill that cuts 16' and you want 20' beams, it's pretty easy to add a homemade 4' section.

I don't know how big of a tractor you have or how far back these logs really are, but a cable, winch and/or tractor and a snatch block or two will allow you to pull them out with out having to drive all the way in. If you were to use a log arch, a simply hand crank winch will probly pull the arch and log out in short pulls to where you can get to it with truck or tractor.
Just a thought.

fuzzybear

   I run a chain mill powered by a husqy 2100. It is a hybrid mill designed on the procut style mill. Only differance is I used 6x6 for the frame decking. This way I can mill as long as I want. I have it set up to be taken apart and hauled behind ATV or skidoo. It is great for making cants. I have it built with a cable feed so I don't have to break my back as much.
   Best thing is it sets up in about 30 min.  hardest part is getting it all level. That is the key thing for cutting square cants.  The one thing most people forget when running a chain mill is that you have to totally reshape the cutters.  Think of it as a flexable saw blade. For ripping you want to file your cutters at 0 deg. this makes it like a big table saw.  Ripping chains are cut at 10 deg., refile all the cutters so they are the same length. Use a gauge for this, then file your rakers to .25, again use a gauge for this. You are turning it into a precision cutting chain.
   For cutting beams like you want you can get away with a smaller saw (72ci. min) as long as you are just squaring up the logs. For 8x8 beams try to stay with 11 in logs. If your going to spend the money for a big saw then try to go the largest.  I tried two saw heads before and was not very impressed with it. My 2100 can rip through the center of a 24" birch with no problem.
   Again the chain is where most people have their problems. KEEP IT SHARP. Happy sawing.  If you have any questions just ask.
Donovan
I never met a tree I didn't like!!

york

Chainsaw mill,good for breaking down huge logs,that are too big for other mills...
Albert

hazard

I have a chainsaw mill from Granberg.  I use a Stihl 066 with a 36" bar.  I use an extra oil tank on the post away from the saw for extra bar oil.  This is a good setup.  Also a really good work out.  I use the ripping chain that granberg sells.

All in all I probably have $1500 into the mill.

I have simplified my setup some from what Granberg sells.  If you go this route and want some tips on setup let me know

If you go with the chainsaw mill make sure you are in decent shape.  It also helps to position the log so you cut downhill.

I am not sure how you would set the mill up to cut a 16'-20' beam.  I use 8' 2x4's for my jig to make the first cut.  If you went say longer then 10' 2x4's for the jig I would assume they would start to bow some in the center when cutting.  You would probably have to go to 2x6's to avoid bowing.


Chris

sawguy21

Welcome aboard Chris, it is good to have hands on experience talking.  8)
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

hazard

Peter

If you do decide to go with the chainsaw mill keep the chain sharp and well oiled.  When the chain drys up it will heat up and start smoking.  Also you will harden the teeth.  I was doing this before I bought the oil tank I have on the end of the bar.


I wouldn't say a great amount of experience.  I have sawed up around 1500 bf with this mill.  Probably 20 trees.  If I had my choice I would use the bandsaw mill everytime but alot of the time it is more convinient to use the chainsaw mill.

Over the last 3-4yrs I haven't sawn much with having young kids and having 4000bf of lumber.  Who needs more?   Me!!!!  Another time.

Goodluck
Chris

beenthere

Quote from: hazard on January 08, 2008, 01:08:38 PM
...........  Also you will harden the teeth.  ....................Over the last 3-4yrs I haven't sawn much with having young kids and having 4000bf of lumber.  Who needs more?   Me!!!!  Another time.
............
Chris


What hardens the teeth?  ::) ???

The "another time" statement, does that refer to why you want more kids?   ::) ???     ;D ;D 8)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

hazard

When I was heating the chains so much I could not sharpen the teeth because they became harder then the file.

More lumber.  I think I would pull out the rest of my hair if I had more kids.

peter nap

Thanks Chris. I'm still sitting on the fence. I would like a bandsaw mill but I doubt it would pay for itself. I also have the location problem.

I ask for help with it and thanks to all the members. Several of you have PM'ed me and given me your phone numbers.

This is a good forum!

tim1234

What about a swing mill, Peterson or Lucas?  You can set it up around the logs and a small one might get into the remote areas.  The saw head is on wheels.  Just a thought.

Tim
You buy a cheap tool twice...and then you're still stuck with a cheap tool!!
Husky 372XP, 455 Rancher, Echo CS300, Alaskan 30" Chainsaw Mill

GlennG

I have an Alaskan 36" mill with a Stihl 066. I have cut approx 20,000 board feet of oak,cherry,elm and pine. If I was smarter I would have saved my loot and purchased a Woodmizer LT-15. I probably took 10 years off my life breathing in 2-stroke fumes and wrecked my back aswell. I could have sawed 20,000 brd ft on a LT-15 then sold it for slighly less than I paid for it, while proccessing the wood in 1/20th the time with 1/10th the gas.

D Martin

I built one a few years back I would unload cheap ,minus the saw. Its basically an alaskan mounted on a carrage that rides on tracks mounted on roller conveyor, set up like a band mill. I used a husky 3120. As previously said keep your chain sharp,but also keep the saw cool,a little extra two stroke oil, an extra oiler, frequent breaks,etc Milling is definately hard on a chainsaw if you make wide cuts. been siting out back since i bought a band mill

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