Turnings

[Fla._Deadheader]

How does one achieve perfect results sanding end grain  ??? ???

Seems like it takes forever  ??? ???

[Texas Ranger]

If you find out, let us know, I think wood selection is the quick answer.

[Burlkraft]

The best way to sand end grain is to not have to sand it much. VERY sharp tools are the answer. I have a good selection of bowl gouges and in turning burl bowls I use just about every one of them. If you do not have many then constant sharpening is the answer. You should be able to tell by the shavings as to how sharp your tool is. If you are turning dry wood sometimes spraying water on end grain help smooth out cuts. Jill has been turning some olive that even green is hard as steel. She became very frustrated because she would use a gouge for a couple of minutes and it would need sharpening.

Welcome to the world of turning  ;D  ;D  ;D

[Left Coast Chris]

I have also had luck with a freshly sharpend scraper or skew chisel used as a scraper.  If all else fails, leave a little extra thickness and sand very coarse (80 grit) first to speed things up.  Im with Burlkraft though, after awhile you learn what types of wood give you the most trouble and avoid them unless they are very unique.  Sometimes though it can be the grain orientation, growth ring size or how the tree grew.  An example is some claro walnut limb wood that I recently roughed out a bowl with that kept tearing end grain.  It was a nice looking piece but I suspect it may have had internal stresses and the way I cut it (at a slight diagonal) may have contributed to the tearing end grain.  It may finish out better when it dries also.  I have had very little trouble with claro walnut from the stump area.

[Fla._Deadheader]

Reina's homemade 2 way does a fair job. Needs a larger motor : Turning the piece in the opposite direction makes it a lot better, but, still a problem.

I start with 80grit.

[Tom]

The best way is to do like the public school system and redefine "Perfect".  :D

[RSteiner]

I will agree that sharpe tools make a lot of difference and that wood type is also a factor.  I am currently working on a bowl of Zebrano or Zebra wood.  The wood is open grained which I think makes the end grain more difficult to deal with.  I am finding that it dulls tools very quickly.

However, it is the end grain that is very figured in Zebrano.  Sanding is what really makes the difference in how a piece looks when it is done so a little extra time sanding is worth the effort.

Randy

[turningfool]

a very sharp bowl gouge is the way to go with more tiny cuts/tiny shavings than bigger more aggresive cuts..i have found that my termite tool leaves little tear out on my end grain stuff

[Fla._Deadheader]

Photos of tools ???

[Burlkraft]

http://www.oneway.ca/tools/termite.htm

Here's a link to Oneway's site and the termite tool. You should be able to fab one down there.

I use a deep fluted 1/2" bowl gouge with a revised Irish grind for just about everything. I like Crown tools the best.
With the Irish grind you can cut into the bowl like a gouge and use the other side on the way out as a scraper  ;D  ;D  ;D

I'm watchin' football right now, but later I'll get some pics and post 'em  ;)  ;)

[Fla._Deadheader]

Once a piece is rounded true, how fast do you spin it ???

[Burlkraft]

Depends on the wood and the cut. I like to turn finish cuts as fast as possible...or safe anyway   : :

I always get smoother finish cuts at a faster rpm

By the way...Gald ta see yer finally turnin'  ;D  ;D  ;D

[SwampDonkey]

I have one just like the 'Termite', I call it a hollowing tool. I can go way inside a piece and make something like an urn or egg cup for instance.



Turned this from basswood.

[isawlogs]

Look like something that could turn up under da hen . 

[SwampDonkey]

Even my aging grandmother who was ailing from bone cancer for years would get out the egg cups and silver spoons every morning we had breakfast together. Then have to polish that silver because eggs tarnish silver. Me, I just cook and break open in a bowl with a steel spoon and skip the formalities.  ;D

[LeeB]

I'm with Marcel, that looks just like an egg. Cup looks good too. :D

[CHARLIE]

Tearout of endgrain is sometimes a challange.  Sharp tools and light cuts are a must. Another helpful hint is to apply a good coat of sanding sealer over the wood and turn it while it is still wet. The sanding sealer helps support the wood fibers.

On the inside of a bowl being turned from heart to bark or bark to heart you should be using a sharp bowl gouge. On the outside of the bowl, after you cut to shape, shear scraping will give you a very nice finish with no endgrain tearout (don't shear scrape on the inside of the bowl).

Turning endgrain boxes or bowls (down the center of the log) use a scraper or a hook tool or a Termite. I like my termite because it slices the wood instead of scraping it. you can hollow out endgrain real fast.

For safety's sake you should turn a piece of wood towards the slow end and not jack up the speed. Speed is dangerous and unless you like to get hit with chunks of wood flying off the lathe if the wood comes loose or breaks apart, keep it on the slow end.  Remember, the larger the piece of wood, the faster it is turning on the perimeter. You can turn a piece of wood just as smooth slowly as you can at high speed. You just don't cut as fast.  Once, I caught a chunk of wood in the chest and I didn't like it.   If you are turning something small like a pen you can get away with high speed turning, but on a bowl.......don't....speed kills.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  THANK YOU, Charlie  8) 8)  Right now, I am limited, because the motor is really too small to cause much trouble. I will go to the shop, directly, and snap a few photos of the bowls and the Lathe.

  I only have a cheap set of 4 chisels. I will photo those as well.

  Here's the photos  ;) :D :D

  First is the first attempt at turning HARD wood. This is Pilon, from scraps from sawing the Giant Pilon a year ago.  Nothing really in mind, just making something smaller from something bigger.  : :

  Second set is more of a bowl shape. Again, nothing in mind while turning.  : ;D

  Look closey and see the end grain-tearout. I sanded heavy with 80, then 120, then wore out 120, then 400. Just playing.  Then wiped on Lacquer sanding sealer and buffed with a rag while turning. Nothing special. Then, it's been SO humid, with all the rain, The pieces Blushed really bad, so, I had to doctor them up a little.  :D :D

  The Lathe is something I threw together for Reina to play on. Needs a bigger motor. This is off a scrap Washer. No capacitors so, it rune in either direction, which has proven to be VERY handy.  8)

  The cheap chisel set is last. Sun was setting and I'm NOT a photo graffer.  : :

 

[SwampDonkey]

From your explanation, I guess your like me. You look for what the wood will reveal and the pattern just 'comes' as the piece turns.  ;D

Nice looking wood and good job for a novice. What am I talking about? I'm a novice to. :D

You don't need expensive tools, just avoid junk that won't hold an edge, or that is too soft and the handle bends. But as you'll notice with each piece you go to turn, you'll likely end up giving the edge of the tool a few rubs to hone it a bit or sharpen.

Keep going.  ;D ;)

[Fla._Deadheader]

I'm constantly honing. Use a sanding disc on the Angle Grinder, to shape, then wipe off the burrs.
This wood pretty much scrapes. No curly chips much on this hard wood. I got a couple indexable carbide inserts from Burlkraft, so, I'm gonna make a couple new tools with them. MIGHT stay sharp for a couple minutes, anyway.

[SwampDonkey]

If your wood is real hard you can really give it a shine when sanding with fine grit. It will look like polished stone. 

I'm about to experiment with rotten stone and a damp sanding sponge on my palm sander. I want to polish my table top so she shines. But, I won't be able to do the impossible. The open grain of walnut and ash won't let you polish it like glass. You can get it real smooth though. 

If you have some powdered clay and a good sponge it would work about to the same. Hopefully the clay has no foreign material (stones) in it.

[Fla._Deadheader]

Sanding Sealer won't fill the pores ???

  This is NOT the hardest wood I have sawn. Just one OF them.  : :

[SwampDonkey]

Oh, yes on my walnut and ash. The rotten stone is used on the finish.

I tend to think sealer would bridge the pores in that dense stuff and get sanded right off. (talking about your piece of wood). I bet the pores are so tiny in that dense stuff you need a microscope to find them.  :D

[Fla._Deadheader]

I use it on most projects, for raising the grain, making the fines stand up to be sanded off.

  Works well, just blushes a lot, lately.  : :

[SwampDonkey]

Water is a lot cheaper.  ;D