Blade direction and guides.

[Danny_S]

Is there any discrepency on which way the blade runs? It should have the sharp side towards the log probably ..heheh :D  I kinda dont think there is but just wondering. And, the blade guide rollers, should just touch the blade and no pressure down...???  Just curious about this, I assume there is no pressure down on the blade but hey, dont hurt to ask...

[Tom]

Yer right, the tips of the teeth should point toward the log. :D

I would prefer that the sawdust not be blown out over the ramp of logs.  It's messy enough over there without having to shovel sawdust away from them.

Usually the operator side of the mill (or other side) is easier to get a tractor into.  That makes sawdust removal pretty easy.  Shoveling on clean level ground is nicer too.

You don't want the operator walking in the dust but it need not be too far away.

If you operate from a stationary control then you won't be walking in it anyway.

Roller guides have the purpose of controlling the blades horizontal and lateral positioning.  To get this control requires that they exert some down pressure on the blade.  Most mill manufacturers suggest around a 1/4 inch.

Stationary guides depend on the crown of the wheels to control the horizontal and lateral positioning of the blade.  They are set such that they are very close to the blade without actually touching.  Their job is control against catostrophic blade misalignment such as following the grain or dips around knots.

In either instance the device that provides support to the back of the blade should not touch until sawing pressure is developed.  The lip of a roller guide or the back wheel of a stationary guide should be set to about 1/16 of an inch from the blade.

[Danny_S]

Thanks Tom, valueable information. I am also in the market to buy some new blades soon, what is a general perpouse blade that sawers run?  I will be sawing mostly softwood, Spruce and pine, and cedar. What would be a good blade to start out with?  I still need to learn the pitch and kerf stuff, I am slightly familiar with it but I have to do some homework on it..  :P

[Tom]

Ballpark size is .0042 thick, 1 1/4" width, 3/4" to 1" tooth spacing (preferably 7/8')  also known as pitch, set .0021

You may find that small wheels and a smaller motor will work better with a .0038 thick blade

Woodmizer blades are good and they will help if you have a problem.

Simonds Red Streaks are good and comparable .

A stiffer blade is Lenox woodmaster "c"  it needs fairly large wheels because of its stiffness.

Both simonds and Lenox blades are available through most blade shops.

Suffox sells a limp blade , the Timberwolf, which you might try after you get started and learn a little about blades.  The reason I say that is because they want the mill changed to make their blade work and you need to understand why.

[Kevin]

I remember having a band that seemed to be turned inside out some way.
The teeth were pointing in the wrong direction.
It happened when the band was coiled and then uncoiled.
I ended up turning it back the proper way and it was fine.

[biziedizie]

Kevin ever band that's made by Lennox is like that. I don't know why there  like that but they are, had to call the blade guy and ask him why my blades were the wrong way and he told me to turn them inside out. :D
  He also showed me how to coil bands and that was a cool thing.

    Steve

[Danny_S]

We used to run lennox blades on a 5 head Baker bandsaw (resaw) I used to maintain, and the blades were allways wrong when we got them. I new the blade coil trick before I started that job, I used to do it with long gravel screener belts. It's the releasing the small coil is the fun part!  We also used sandvick blades for a while, they came just folded like a big U and wired up.