Parbuckling vs Trailer "A" Frame Log Loading

Firebass · December 27, 2007, 12:59:18 AM

I recall a thread about DanG's Log loader. But I can't seem to find it. Anyway I have been parbuckling logs onto my trailer up untill this point and was wondering if some of you that have built the "A" frame/Cam-over type log lifts could share some pros and cons of these loading methods? Seems like a faster way but how does it compare on huge logs?
Any info is greatly appreciated

Thanks
Firebass

DanG · December 27, 2007, 01:19:20 AM

There are pros and cons to each method, as you might figure. I first built the loader on the back because my trailer set down between the tires, making it impossible to parbuckle over the side. Fla._Deadheader built his to retrieve logs from the water, where he couldn't get the trailer beside the logs. Since I got a gooseneck trailer with the deck above the wheels, I haven't used the A-frame at all. Parbuckling is quicker. I still have it, and will use it if needed, since you can't always put the trailer beside the log. I'm sure that occasion would have arisen if I was still doing my own hauling, but almost all my logs are delivered nowadays.

Firebass · December 27, 2007, 01:28:58 AM

DanG, My trailer is framed above the wheels and the logs drop 8" onto the bed. It's a bit of a chore to UN-load. Did you use the "A" frame when UN-loading at all?

This is a bit too much for my trailer...

bandmiller2 · December 27, 2007, 06:51:17 AM

Firebass,trailers love a challenge its just the tires that get a little pist.What I would do with your trailer is install a removable inverted u shaped arch at the rear well braced with a pulley at the top.A good winch at the front of the trailer.You could yard logs to trailer, hook the tongs at the front of the log ,lift front on rehook and load.Unload the same way. Frank C.

woodhick · December 27, 2007, 08:36:14 AM

Firebass, my trailer is very similar to yours. I built mine myself so it is built heavier than most "factory" utility trailers that I've seen. Mine has 3/16" plate steel for the fenders and the rails around are 2" box steel on 3" channel uprights. The top of my rails are 12" above the floor and even with the top of the fenders. I have two pieces of 3"x4" box tubing 8' long that are notched to fit over the top rails. These drop over the 2' tubing and has tabs that pin thorugh the 3" channel uprights. This allows me to load logs onto trailer and not have them drop into bed. since crossmembers stick up above top rail by 3" it also allows me to umload with loader and forks. Works very well. I probably did not explain it very well. Dont know it I can get pics or not but will try if you need me to. Not sure your uprights ( the pieces that support the top rail on tralier) are heavey enough to do this or not.

Furby · December 27, 2007, 11:48:53 AM

What you were looking for?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=17613.0
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=6803.msg94732#msg94732

DR Buck · December 27, 2007, 07:33:41 PM

QuoteMy trailer is framed above the wheels and the logs drop 8" onto the bed.

You keep dropping logs like that 8" into the trailer and you won't have to lash them down. They'll all roll into the valley that will develop in the middle of the trailer. And your trailer will soon become unsafe.

HOOF-ER · December 27, 2007, 10:57:04 PM

SHHH, I think I hear a swing mill cuttin. Nice log! Read all the old threads for the log arch. Another project to work on!!. Just unloaded 3 black oak logs mon. It took almost and hour to wrestle them off the trailer. Thank you designers for the great ideas! Can' t wait, maybe I can find an old lady to give me logs and steak for taking them ;D

DanG · December 27, 2007, 11:58:47 PM

Hey, ya got a sawmill, don't ya? Just cut a couple of 4 by whatever bunks to put in the trailer and bring the height up over those rails. Then you can just roll'em off the side when ya get home. The trailer I was using didn't have side rails, so I used the forklift to unload.

Dan_Shade · December 28, 2007, 08:41:26 AM

i always chained the log to a tree and drug the trailer out from under it. a tip with doing this, though is to put a binder in the chain that you can undo afterwards or you won't be able to get the chain unhooked!

unloading should be easier than loading

HOOF-ER · December 28, 2007, 09:52:47 AM

I used a tractor, They catch on the rear of the trailer. Another project, need to put a piece of pipe on the tail to drag logs over. Too many projects not enough time. :(

pineywoods · December 28, 2007, 10:00:59 AM

Quote from: HOOF-ER on December 28, 2007, 09:52:47 AM
I used a tractor, They catch on the rear of the trailer. Another project, need to put a piece of pipe on the tail to drag logs over. Too many projects not enough time. :(

I replace that piece of angle iron pretty often for neighbors. Next time you replace floor boards, cut a recess about 3/8 inch deep, 2 in wide, across the end of the boards. The angle iron that runs across the rear end of the floor will set down inside that recess...no more hanging when you drag logs off the rear. I use a router to cut the recess, but I have seen guys do it with a chain saw.

Firebass · December 28, 2007, 07:28:32 PM

Quote from: DanG on December 27, 2007, 11:58:47 PM
Hey, ya got a sawmill, don't ya? Just cut a couple of 4 by whatever bunks to put in the trailer and bring the height up over those rails. Then you can just roll'em off the side when ya get home. The trailer I was using didn't have side rails, so I used the forklift to unload.

That's a good one DanG. Thanks, Cheap, Easy, Fast and Fun.. I think I'll do it. Until I got a sawmill I never had the opportunity to work with wood, so I have a stubborn tendency to think in terms of buildiung things with steel. Heck I even made some wood saw horses the other day... Thanks for everyones input Love this forum...

Firebass

HOOF-ER · December 28, 2007, 08:06:43 PM

Thanks Pineywoods , The floor is new , your right no sense adding more weight to the trailer. Just as easy to take the angle off and do it right.

Furby · December 28, 2007, 08:21:02 PM

Firebass, it's important to either tie the cants down to the trailer or build a box or H shape.
If they are taller then they are wide, they will tip forward when braking, no matter how good you strap the logs down.
I use power poles across mine with them strapped together.
When we went to the ATV trip, we built up Oakimac's trailer along the same lines so we could load the quads from the side.

Dakota · December 29, 2007, 12:11:47 PM

Firebass,
It's a lot easier to roll the logs like this:

Notice how the ramps raise the logs up and over the tire. The bed has two cross pieces that are high enough to keep the log off the tire as Dan described.

brdmkr · December 29, 2007, 02:22:07 PM

Dakota,

How big is the winch that you use for parbuckling?

Chris Burchfield · December 29, 2007, 08:00:12 PM

I have the trailer below the fender wells. I've parbuckeled then dragged them off with a tractor. I've also built a logging arch, utilizing a Waren 9500ti wench. Here's a pic. you can also look at other picks as my logging arch will also go mobile.

Dakota · December 31, 2007, 08:30:23 AM

brdmkr,

The winch is a Warn utility winch (U2500) rated at 2500 lbs. of pulling power. For logs under 16 inches, I pull a single line. Anything over 16 inches, I double up with a snatch block.
My biggest Ponderosa pines are in the 30-36 inch range. Doubled up with snatch block, it will roll a 12' log up on the trailer with ease.
Dakota

jpgreen · January 02, 2008, 11:12:10 AM

Quote from: Dakota on December 29, 2007, 12:11:47 PM
Firebass,
It's a lot easier to roll the logs like this:
Notice how the ramps raise the logs up and over the tire. The bed has two cross pieces that are high enough to keep the log off the tire as Dan described.

Nice rig Dakota. Do you have any pics showing how you mounted the mast and winch?

DanG · January 03, 2008, 12:48:24 PM

That's a nice set-up for sure, Dakota. I really like the ramps, but I've found a mast to be unnecessary. I just drop a loop of chain around an axle and clip the snatch block to that. I roll them onto some 4x4 bunks so I can get the forks under them at home, so the cable isn't trapped under them either. ;)

Dakota · January 07, 2008, 08:22:01 AM

jpgreen,

Sorry I'm so long replying, been stuck in the snow. Here's a few pictures I took while I was building the mast etc.

John Bartley · January 07, 2008, 10:17:49 AM

Dave,

Can you enlighten us about the size of material you used for that mast? I'm guessing (from the photos) at about 2" square tubing ... did you use 3/16" or 1/4" wall?

Also, what size of logs have you pulled with it so far?

Reason I ask??? ... I just built one for my Champion sawmill, and I'm pretty sure that I (as always) overbuilt it by a huge margin...

cheers eh?

jpgreen · January 07, 2008, 10:28:21 AM

Thanks for the pics Dave.

I think one good reason for the mast is stacking logs.

Seams like I have a heck of a time getting logs on top of each other with my rig.

zopi · January 07, 2008, 11:57:02 AM

Quote from: John Bartley on January 07, 2008, 10:17:49 AM
Dave,

Can you enlighten us about the size of material you used for that mast? I'm guessing (from the photos) at about 2" square tubing ... did you use 3/16" or 1/4" wall?

Also, what size of logs have you pulled with it so far?

Reason I ask??? ... I just built one for my Champion sawmill, and I'm pretty sure that I (as always) overbuilt it by a huge margin...

cheers eh?

1st rule of engineering..build it strong. i might have to do something like that...volume of free wood i'm coming into is ridiculous..