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Moving Trees: How Big is to big?

Started by jeff, July 13, 2001, 08:41:10 PM

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Jeff

Moving Trees: How big is to big? 6"Dbh? 10?

You folks gotta see this...
http://www.natlshade.com/
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Tom

Do I gotta believe it :-/

What's this world come to when they transplant a forest :-/

They could make a shopping center look like it had been there for 100 years. :D

L. Wakefield

  Well, mmm, that partially focuses this whole gemisch I have in my mind about planting..I did my popples this past month, and had fair success. I'm gonna be trying a whole lot more stuff- basswood and sweet birch- if you look at that gigunda tree, big as the rootball IS, it looks puny compared to what I know is the root system that giant HAD. Is there a rough rule of thumb for how much is needed? I tend to go out to the drip line and spade down- loosen and pry as I go- but I don't have a mechanical aid here other than the basic shovel and mattock, so I usually end up going not more than 1-2ft deep. What I end up with depends on the nature of the soil and subsoil. If the tree ( or shrub or sapling) is on a buncha rocks, I usually get a few big roots and then they dead-end in stone. If it's deep friable soil, I may get more rootage, but still the dirt frequently flakes off so I in effect transport something partly 'bare-root'. In the rare occurrences when the moon is right and all cometh in a big gob, I put my back out dragging the thing
around. What would you say the limit is for shovel and mattock? I've had fair success with specimens 2ft high or less. What if I try 3', 4' or 6'?
   Also (1 more question, I gotta ask 1 more!) do you think spring or fall is better for transplanting? If you go for fall, how late is too late?
  Thanks in advance for help.   lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

Tom

LW,

From what I can gather, too big is when you can't handle it anymore.

I was told that to move a larger plant required root pruning. Start a 6 months to a year before the move and plunge a shovel full depth around the tree.  This will cause it to generate feeder roots and will define the size of the root ball to be removed. Then when the plant is dormant, dig it up and move it.

I don't know if it is an "old wives tale" or not but I was also told that the roots grow when the rest of the plant is dormant.  I try to make the move during dormancy but just before it wakes up. I have had good luck with Oaks but not pines.  I think it is because I have to cut off the tap root of the pine and that stunts the tree until it can generate a new leader.

I also live in an area where there isn't true dormancy. So, my experience my not be true to yours.

L. Wakefield

   Thanks for the tip, Tom. I will add it to the list of things to try. If I'd known that when I was up north last time I'd've prepped some trees for later moving. I guess you'd do the chopping at about the drip line. If I get up in the fall I can set it for spring. And likewise I may do some down in WV this fall in hopes to go back in the spring.
   I think this might be temepered, as you say, by the overall rotting characteristics. it would be more mortany for those with shallow spreading roots; and less effective with those dependent on a deep taproot. I will look at characteristics of my searched-for species.
   I wish basswood/linden wood make babies not right up at the base of the tree! Mountain ash does that too, and it's exasperating. Lotsa beautiful babies but I don't see how you get em without killing them.Maybe with them, too, you'd hack em loose but leave the rooted portion intact for 6 months, and then dig. Hmmm..  lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

marc

Whale there at it they should move the whole acer that it was on. :D :D :D :D :D

L. Wakefield



   I think this might be temepered, as you say, by the overall rotting characteristics. it would be more mortany for those with shallow spreading roots; and less effective with those dependent on a deep taproot.

OK!! I just reread this post- I try to edit out my mistakes as I go, BUT...

   I can tell- and so can you- what I meant by 'temepered' 'rotting characteristics', but what the BLAZES was I trying to write when I came up with 'mortany'??!!

  I have been looking at it and sniggering til I was just crying , but I CAN'T figure it out.

   Talk about going off the deep end..  Help me, help me, the typos are gonna get me.. :D :D :D :D
             lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

Jeff

Cheer up little rabbit, it seems you simply typoed "mortality"
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Tom

Yeah, That was my entermeration too.

L. Wakefield

no wez! I can see where I might have wanted to type the word 'effective' (as in the 2nd half of the sentence), but 'mortality' isn't even correct in context. Must have been the night I was trying to determine whether or not a mint julep made with brandy instead of bourbon was still a mint julep. Or maybe it was several of those. 'Mortany'- bartender, make mine a double. Even a single looks like a double. Watch out for the mortany, it'll getcha. :D :D :D And don't even THINK about reaching for that chainsaw...lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

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