buying saw chains in bulk?

sunriseseamless · December 06, 2007, 06:11:23 PM

I've read a couple posts that talk about buying bulk chains.
How complicated is making your own chain?
I have two Stihls. 032 (I think) and an 075. The 075 is actually enroute from ebay with a 33" bar. I'm planning on using this saw for milling. Anyone know if they take the same type of chain? Do I buy a different chain for milling or just sharpen it differently? What tools are needed to fit a chain to a saw?
Who sells bulk chains? Why is the sky blue and trees brown? (Just checking to see if you're really paying attention)
Thanks, you guys are great.
Steve

beenthere · December 06, 2007, 07:00:40 PM

sunriseseamless
I let my Stihl dealer buy the bulk chain and just get what I need made up from him...He does a great job providing me what I need, and it helps him stay in business so he is there when the difficult things come up.... ;D ;D

Look at Bailey's (sponsor to the left here) for bulk chain...I'll look too.

(yep, they have reels of chainsaw chain...)

If ya know how, makin chain is not complicated at all. But on another note, changing the headlight bulb in my TrailBlazer isn't complicated (now), once I figured out how to unsnap the grill and slip the locking mechanisms out, and remove the bulb...went back together in a flash...but there were some early moments where it was DanG complicated....I kid you not... ;D ;D ;D

mike_van · December 06, 2007, 07:08:31 PM

Besides the spool of chain, you have to have the setup [ breaker, rivet spinner, spare ties, etc] to make your own. I just sold the whole set-up I had, it was gathering too much dust. If you used a lotta chain, or had a store, probably be worth it.

sawguy21 · December 06, 2007, 11:29:07 PM

What Mike said. You need to use a lot to make bulk buying worth your while, especially with two saws that use different chain. The 075 will likely be set up for .404, it has more than enough power, where the 032 will use 3/8. The tools to break and splice chain are not expensive, the break'n'mend is like a vise grip and works well.

Gary_C · December 07, 2007, 12:06:39 AM

I have never seen where you can save more than a few cents buying bulk chains vs buying premade loops. And it can be a pain to count drive links, break the chain, and then spin new presets and ties on. Yes, you will pay more for loops at your local saw shop, but you may need him there for more serious problems and perhaps for sharpening services.

Even with a harvester where I buy boxed loops of 18H harvester chain, premade loops are cheaper than full reels and I do not need the extra work. The only reason to have a breaker and spinner is to fix broken loops and change the number of drive links in a loop for a different type bar.

Dale Hatfield · December 07, 2007, 06:56:59 AM

Check outthe sale/close out section in Baileys .Usually have some pretty good deals in their for saw chain. When the chain that you use is on sale buy in bulk.

Brian_Rhoad · December 07, 2007, 12:48:37 PM

I buy 100' reels of chain from Bailey's when they have it on sale. I've been using their brand for years with no complaints. I grind the rivet head off where I need to break the chain. I use the vise grip type of rivet tool to put the chain together. I use a tooth 1/2 on the splice. When I'm done you usualy can't see where the chain was put together.

Corley5 · December 07, 2007, 07:26:32 PM

I had an order filled out for chain tools and a roll of processor chain when I decided I oughta check the price per link. I figured it out and the pre-made were indeed less. I changed the order to all pre-made loops ;D

rebocardo · December 07, 2007, 08:16:41 PM

Even for my larger 28" bar, there is not much of a difference ($1) between premade and bulk. For $1 a chain and only using 10-15 new chains a month, I couldn't be bothered making my own as the investment in equipment far outweighs what I would use in a year.

Plus, in the back of my mind was if I bought cheap equipment and botched a chain, if I break a chain while sawmilling at chest height and need medical treatment, the deal wasn't a deal anymore.

imo, Where doing your own is nice is when you hit metal or concrete and break a cutter and could replace it easily with a new one and cut the new one down to size. Or fixing bike chains for the kids ;)

sunriseseamless · December 08, 2007, 06:42:13 AM

Thanks for all the input. It sound like premade chains are my smartest choice. For a dollar a chain, I have much better things to do with my time. And I don't use 10-15 chains in a year, let alone a month. Is the best place to buy chains your local saw shop or through a large supplier? It seems like I pay $22 for my 18" Stihl 029. Do I buy a different chain for milling or just sharpen it differently?

Corley5 · December 08, 2007, 01:20:28 PM

Bailey's is a forum sponsor with a link on the left. They're much cheaper than the saw shops in my area ;) ;D

rebocardo · December 14, 2007, 01:21:25 AM

> Do I buy a different chain for milling or just sharpen it differently?

You can do both and I have, imho, you are ahead of the game if you buy it already sharpened for milling if for nothing else that you get more teeth for the money.

Granberg has a milling chain, that I have not tried. The low profile chain Baileys sells with a top plate angle of 10 degrees has worked well for me. Much better then the converted full comp stuff I was making for myself.

dancan · December 16, 2007, 07:26:40 AM

my local stihl dealer will make loops from bulk if they don't have a loop in stock for the same price of the pre-made .i don't think it's a money maker or increases their profit margin because they sure have alot of pre-made in stock .

sawguy21 · December 16, 2007, 12:16:38 PM

We carry the common sizes for Stihl and Husqvarna in boxed loops because, at the price, we cannot make them cheaper with the labor involved.We do have to make a lot of chain, my job because the new parts guys have not been trained yet :

, for all the other brands and the vintage saws that keep showing up.

fuzzybear · December 17, 2007, 03:47:16 AM

Our local dealer charges $.48 a drive link. Ordered from bailey's in 100ft roll with shipping and customs fees, $.195 a drive link. I make all my own. But then again I cut about 200 cord of fire wood and 400-600 mill logs a year.

Dale Hatfield · December 17, 2007, 07:53:23 AM

Please watch your fingers using a grinder to cut rivets on saw chain . Friend of mine had done this a few times and got away with it. But the one time he didnt get away with it .The grinder caught the chain and stripped his middle finger to the bone. Took a few skin grafts to get something that looked like a finger again.
Dale

sawguy21 · December 17, 2007, 10:06:00 AM

Good point. Either a bench mount punch or the Break'n'Mend is a lot safer. Also, do not clean dirty/rusted chain with a wire wheel. Don't ask how I learned that one. :

Climber · January 09, 2008, 10:35:12 PM

From MY personal experience
Pros of buying bulk
1)   $20 pre-made loop cost me $7 of chain (our prices around here)
2)   Any time of day, night, weekend I can get chain.
3)   I do not need to spend time to drive to dealer and back
4)   Takes me about 2 minutes to make a loop
5)   Feel of independence

Cons of buying bulk
1)   cost up front for equipment (~$50)
2)   cost upfront for spool (~$300 for my size chain)
3)   time upfront to make a ruler with link count
4)   need to bring all saws to same link size (NOT BAR) for example 3/8 x 050
5)   need some minimum skills

I personally am buying bulk. In the year I am going through 150 feet of chain.
Good luck

sawguy21 · January 09, 2008, 10:44:37 PM

That volume makes it worthwhile. Oregon has a bench scale that is easy to set up with a chain breaker. Drive some finishing nails into the bench to hook the end of the roll and quickly measure the drive link count. As Climber says, it works best if all the saws use the same size chain, only one roll required.

Jim Spencer · January 12, 2008, 10:19:46 PM

If you are milling with the saw you should change anything you need to change to run 3/8"X.050 chain. You may need to change the drive sprocket and bar but in the long run you will never regret it.
3/8" X .050 drive link width(bar slot width) is standard for ripping chain sold by Baileys.
I own a Logosol and have bought dozens of chains and think the Baileys chains are excellent.
Most of my chain loops are 16" and I think the last loops I bought were about $10 ea.
I also use 20" loops but can cut almost any large log with the 16". Just have to roll log after the first cut to get by with 16". I use a Stihl 066. Be sure to order RIPPING CHAIN.

Quartlow · January 25, 2008, 06:47:50 PM

Quote from: Climber on January 09, 2008, 10:35:12 PM
From MY personal experience
Pros of buying bulk
1)   $20 pre-made loop cost me $7 of chain (our prices around here)
2)   Any time of day, night, weekend I can get chain.
3)   I do not need to spend time to drive to dealer and back
4)   Takes me about 2 minutes to make a loop
5)   Feel of independence

Cons of buying bulk
1)   cost up front for equipment (~$50)
2)   cost upfront for spool (~$300 for my size chain)
3)   time upfront to make a ruler with link count
4)   need to bring all saws to same link size (NOT BAR) for example 3/8 x 050
5)   need some minimum skills

I personally am buying bulk. In the year I am going through 150 feet of chain.
Good luck

What he said!, We bought everything from Baileys this year. 100 feet of chain that was on closeout, spinner and breaker with all the anvils, If I remember right it was in the neighborhood of $250 theres 1640 drive links in a 100 feet of 3/8, All of mine and my brothers saws take 62 links or less with the exception of the 075 so thats roughly 26 chains. Figuring in the cost of the tools thats $9.61 a chain. OF course thats based on my memory of 62 drive links for the chains and my memory aint what it used to be.

rebocardo · January 25, 2008, 08:29:43 PM

Jim, I agree. I usually avoid anything that I can't get the 3/8 .050 for from Baileys.

Al_Smith · January 26, 2008, 03:44:31 PM

Actually at times the ready made loops on sale at Baileys are cheaper than buying chain bulk. I can buy a 72 drive 3/8" chain loop plus the tie strap and cut two out for a Mac cheaper than ordering a 70 driver for the same saw.Then also because of the design a Stihl using a 72 driver will accept both a 7 or 8 tooth rim.The danged Macs take a 71 for an 8 tooth on a 20" bar.

I use a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to remove the rivet heads then either spin it together or peen it depending on the size. My spinner only has the anvil for 3/8" and .404.Other sizes like .325,3/8 pico or rarely 1/2" get peened.

I have little punchs I made from grade 8 bolts that will form a rivet head as perfectly as a spinner if used correctly.

Dave Shepard · January 26, 2008, 09:07:30 PM

We are set up at the mill to make just about any size from .325 to .404, in three different gauges. If I were just using one size chain all the time, I would just buy enough loops from Bailey's to get a discount, and be done with it. We are doing many different things though, we have many different length bars, Alaskan mills, and different brands of saws, and it seems every one uses a different flavor of chain. It is handy to have the tools and chain in stock to get it done. We also have taken damaged chains from the Alaskan mill and cut them down to fit a smaller chainsaw bar. It all depends on how much time you want to spend making chains.

Dave

johncinquo · February 06, 2008, 12:03:52 PM

I bought somebody elses used equipment so start up costs were cheap. Theres always somebody that doesnt want what you want any longer out there. (conversely somebody always wants the junk your getting rid of) Baileys has a sale as often as the shoe store, so I just waited for the spool I wanted to come on sale. I like making up the chains, the time is minimal and its just another part of playing in the garage. I switched around some bars and sprockets, so most if not all saws I actually use take the same chain now. I made up about 20 chains at once. I can cut for several days and not sharpen chain. When I want to spend some time at the grinder I can sharpen them all up at once. Batch processing is a time saver.

I also picked up a dozen chains cheap that were off sized by 3 links. I sacrificed one chain for extra links, added them to the other chains, and had 11 new chains for next to nothing in cost.

bandmiller2 · April 24, 2008, 07:42:58 AM

As John said sometimes you can scoop a deal on chains that are too short or long ,if your set up easy matter to convert them.The up front price smarts for a short time then you have it.The more you can do yourself with your saws or mill the better off you are,thats what seperates us from the weekend pilgrims.Frank C.

bandmiller2 · April 25, 2008, 08:02:44 AM

A case in point, a good friend just gave me a Stihl 041 farm boss,almost no use with 8 chains 16".My firewood comes from a municipal butt and stump yard,I need a 20" bar.Will make three 20" chains from four 16". Frank C.

TheBusyBeaver · January 07, 2017, 08:02:35 PM

I'm really considering it sense I have a landscaping and repair business and I get discounts. I have a Husqvarna 460 with 16 and 24 inch bar 3/8x050 a Stihl 034 with 20 inch bar 3/8x050 and a Stihl MS661 with a 36 inch bar 3/8x050 and soon a 42 inch bar 3/8x064. want to mill some and I use it for trimming logs too large for the sawmill and breaking down big log butts for the wood splitter.