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That's Odd

Started by ElectricAl, April 26, 2003, 06:58:20 PM

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ElectricAl

Sawing 3" x 12" x 17' White oak the other day. I was on the last cut on the cant, about 8" from the end. The blade breaks ???
I shut everything down, then walk around the saw head and find this,   That's Odd :o

 

The V belt puked out the front.  Not sure if the belt failed first or the blade. The blade only had 1000-1500' on it ???

Regardless, two new belts and a new blade for an 8" cut.  ::)

Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

EZ

Hmmm, well I guess that wood be one of them things like, which came first, the chicken or the egg.
Today I was getting ready to saw threw a 24 inch cant but before I started I thought maybe I'll change blades. So I put on a first time resharp blade and when I started sawing the saw head started banging and jerking and then came off the wheels. Put another resharp blade on and it was fine.
EZ

ElectricAl

Not so EZ,

Did the blade come off the wheels or the head came off the rails.

When we went to saw a 29" Honey Locust with a 10 degree hook the blade chattered something awfull. Took the blade off and reset the grinder for 9 degree hook. Sent the blade around twice, then back to the saw.  Smooth runner then.

I wonder if your first blade had too much hook angle?

ElectricAl
Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

EZ

Dont have any way to check the hook angle, the blade came from the same resharp lot. You wood think that all the blades wood have acted the same. I used 4 blades yesterday, all out of the same resharp lot and that one was the only one that gave me problem.
So if that blade does have to much hook angle, then it wood only be good for soft woods, I dont no, just wondering.
EZ

ElectricAl

I would mark the blade, and save it for a nail log or soft wood.

It would be nice to get some use out of it before you send it back for sharpening.

Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

dewwood

EA

Just wondering what method you use to extract your blades from a situation like the one you encountered.  I have used various means such as wedges etc so that I can back the blade out without damaging it.  Do you have any special technique that you recommend?  It seems like that always happens right at the end of a cut.

Thanks,
Dewey
Selling hardwood lumber, doing some sawing and drying, growing the next generation of trees and enjoying the kids and grandkids.

ElectricAl

Dewey,

Good question ;D

If the blade breaks, we use whatever method is quickest.
Normally, we fiddle and wiggle the blade away from the wheels, then stretch it out long and try to pull the blade backwards through the cut.

If there is a kink we'll use a 4.5" angle grinder and cut the blade.

Now, if we hit a nail and can't finish the cut, then we'll work a wedge in the center to open the cut. Back up to the wedge, then move the wedge to the end.
It's definitely quicker to tell you than to do it ???

The hardest thing is getting back in the cut and down to the end for the last 8". We use an 18" screwdriver (which we store on the saw) and door shims to work our way towards the end ::)

For the photo posted above it took 5-8 minutes to get the last 8"  :-/ not bad.

We try to use a fairly new blade to cut tall cants into planks to avoid this problem. There is a lot of weight sitting on the kerf.


ElectricAL

Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

Tom

I've had that happen.  Sometimes the blade will break and pull the belt off of the wheel.  When sawing really gummy pine, I've had the gum stick to the belt and actually stick the belt to blade.  Boy, does that sound funny.  One time I heard a wierd noise and opened the door to find out what had happened and the belt fell out.  It was the drive pulley and the blade was still mounted on the, now bare, pulley.  Why I didn't lose the blade is a mystery.

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