sealing turning blanks

[brdmkr]

I am planning on cutting some cherry turning blanks.   Will AnchorSeal work to seal the entire blank?  I notice that most green blanks say that they are sealed in wax.  I know that Anchor seal is a wax emulsion, but is this the same thing or does it even matter?

[metalspinner]

Probably the same thing.  As a turner, however, I dislike blocks completely encased in wax.  First because it does not give the block a chance to dry at all - which is the point , I guess.  Second it makes for a dangerous shop floor with piles of waxy shavings on the floor.  Only the end grain should be waxed in my opinion.   Crotchity parts with lots of endgrain on the face may need to be waxed if they are not used right away.  And some burls for the  same reason - lots of end grain on all faces.

[Left Coast Chris]

I use Baileys emulsion end seal and like it for the ends of boards which is what it is intended for.   The issue for me is that on a really nice bowl blank that I may not want to size down too much the end seal emulsion will absorb somewhat into the wood. 

If you can buy some wax it does not absorb as much.  Most turners I know prefer the wax.  The wax can be expensive to buy any kind of quantity.   I look for old candles at garage sales to do waxing with.

Even better is to turn the piece green, rough out the bowl then dry in a bag. 

[jim king]

This is a bit more far ranging than sealing or drying but it may intertest you.

                    Turning Blanks

Turning has become a segment of the hobby wood business that is growing rapidly and as a result a lot of new and  inexperienced turners are getting into this enjoyable hobby .  The new turner usually has trouble with the blanks as wood is not a perfect item but instead is blessed with colors , grains and all sorts of wonderful defects that make it the great median for the hobby.

We have basically pen turning , bowl turning, spindle turning , hollow forms and segmented turning and of course commercial turning and then the variations. Turning blanks come in many forms and temperaments as do turners.  Some turners like them green and some like them dry.  Some like flat sawn and some like end grain.  Some like a perfect piece of wood and some like the blank with holes or natural edge.  The result is that the turners are about as varied and unique as the woods they turn.

All blank types and turning preferences present unique problems.  The more advanced turner will look for the perfect defect while the new turner will look for a defect free blank.  After we find the perfect piece of wood to fit our level and style we get into drying the wood.  This is definitely the most complicated and frustrating for a new turner. In the drying of blanks or the drying of a rough turned blanks turners being the rare species that they are rely on simple facts to wood witchcraft.

If you have the patience you can put your blank aside to dry for a few years or you can end seal the ends or the whole blank with wax or a wax emulsion .  Others put the blank in a paper bag to slow the drying process .  Some will boil the rough turned piece and let it dry slowly for a few weeks, others will soak the piece in denatured alcohol prior to drying and have good luck.  Some soak the pieces in liquid soap.  Some make a small kiln from an old refrigerator.

Normally whatever figured or colored wood will present some problems when drying either in the blank or the rough turned form.  The problems can be a twist in the turning due to uneven beautiful grain which is solved by turning thicker than the finished piece and returning when dry not to mention that some strive for warped pieces.  Small cracks or checks which are easily repaired using super glue and sanding dust.  A large crack can present a danger when on the lathe if a backer plat is not glued or screwed on properly, some people like to turn more air than wood, this is for the experienced hand only or you wont have a hand.  Super glue is the turners ace in the hole and right hand man.  Mold is disliked by some turners and liked by others as it can create wonderful spalted designs in sapwoods ot light color woods .  Knot holes , wormy woods, and blanks with pith holes should not be used by beginning turners.  No question they make spectacular turned pieces but can be dangerous to the inexperienced.  I would suggest to everyone that you start with local wood from your woodlot or whatever source and leave the highly grained and colourful and defect woods until you have the appropriate experience.  In other words practice on low priced  or free local woods.

I would suggest to every new, inexperienced or advanced turner to join a turning club or study and participate in some of the many wonderful wood turners sites on the internet.  There is a wealth of information and the turners are extremely helpful to each other and it is all free .  On those sites you will get the full spectrum of likes and dislikes of woods, tools, finishes,  styles and whatever else imaginable.  Wood turners are very helpful to each other.

This is like most hobbies , it can become an obsession or a business or both.  Good luck, go slow , learn from your mistakes and you have joined a hobby that will never cease to keep you challenged and satisfied.

[treenail]

Cherry is my favorite tuning wood for the large bowls that I make periodically. When I'm sawing blanks on the sawmill, I use anchorseal heavily on the end grain and have had very good luck. My blanks usually average  4-6 inches thick , and as long as I don't put them in extreme drying situations immediately after sealing them, the results  are very favorable for good solid turning stock down the road. I leave them square until I'm ready to turn, at which time I round them on a bandsaw, which allows me to remove any slight checking. Have not totally sealed the entire blanks.

[brdmkr]

Thanks Treenail!  I end-sealed some 2x2 and 3x3 spindle stock.  I was going to try to sell these to turners, but the same old problem cropped up.  I decided to keep them myself 8)  I figure turning would be a lot of fun.  I am just waiting on a good deal on a used lathe.

[WIwoodworker]

brdmkr...Here's a photo of a cherry burl I cut open yesterday. I end sealed the exposed face and the ends but did not seal the bark side. All of my customers are OK with this method for burls.

As far as a block goes I would probably just seal the ends. That's where you would expect checking on a piece of green wood if it were not sealed.

[rfalk]

I am a woodturner and I would say if in doubt, coat the whole piece....most woodturners would rather have the wood block wet and unchecked than dry and checked (which is invariablely happens if you don't seal the wood)

[solidwoods]

I use anchor seal.
I dip the fresh blank into it.  Works great for no checking.  Even with split pith or pith on one face type cuts.

I don't know about easy spalt type woods but my guess is the sealant type products don't seal or stop moisture transfer that much .

jim