Something special I need help with - spalted maple inclusion -

[OneWithWood]

Here is something unique I stumbled upon while sawing out some spalted maple



This is what I would call an inclusion.  It is a dwarf maple growing inside a maple!  I wish I could have seen the whole thing before I sawed it in half  :-\  but this is still something rather unique and special.  I need help with preserving this piece.

My first thought is to encase it in acrylic to save the 3D effect. Then make a spalted maple frame for it.  It is very fragile.  It has been kiln dried.  The dimensions are 5/4x14.5" x 9' but I will probably cut it off at 32".  You can see a fainlt line at the 32" mark.

What are your suggestions?  I think this is a high dollar item and I want to do it justice. 

The pic is not the best.  It is setting on a stack of wide spalted maple boards.  The 3D effect is awesome with a lot of fine little filament roots throughout.

[Ironwood]

Well, given the fact that it has already been kilned I would rule out the use of PEG to preserve. Instead I would probably use an epoxy on the more fragile portions (epoxies are designed to fill voids, "read" span gaps and create some rigidity to the fragile portions), then chase the epoxy w/ a flat laquer to kill the gloss to created by the epoxy. You might try to somehow "mist"/ "drizzle" the epoxy on (never done that before) Cool piece, love nature!

[Dana]

Are you sure that isn't the heart wood that remained after the decay started? It is a neat piece either way.

[thecfarm]

I almost did not bother to click on to this thread.My first day back to work tomorow,so I'm taking it easy today.
That is very interesting.Never know what you will find inside a log.

[gharlan]

OWW if you are going to go the epoxy route do a search for pour-on or EX-88 or EX-74. It is the products you see on table tops that encase coins or the like. It would probably work well since it is a pour thickness and dries pretty clear.  I think you should be able to find it for around 100 a gallon not that you would need that much. I have used it several times so if you have questions let me know.-----gary

[Tom]

I agree that the acrilic/resin described is the way to go.  We see things like this sometimes where vines gre up inside of hollow logs.  I've always wanted to make a showpiece of one of them.   It could be the heart, as suggested, but you can't beat a good story.  I think I would stick with the tree-in-a-tree story.

It's a good thing it fell in the hands of an entrepreneur/artist sawyer rather than a log grader at the sawmill, eh?  Those guys step over dollars to pick up dimes and it would have ended up on the slab fire.  :D

[low_48]

I would stay away from epoxy, it is way to yellow. Clear casting resin or the thin pour on finish will be the way to go. Bubbles will be the problem unless you take some precautions. All casting guys use a technique called degassing. This is the process of removing all the air in the mix. After mixing the resin and catalyst you should put it in a vacuum chamber to pull all the air out or it. That will give you the perfectly clear look. Know anyone with a vacuum pump? You can also use a vacuum venturi that uses compressed air to pull the vacuum. Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that is sold as an automotive air conditioner pump down rig. A lot of penturners that cast their own resin pens use a Harbor Freight pressure paint pot as the vacuum or pressure chamber. Some of them put the pen blanks in the pressure pot and apply pressure to break the bubbles instead of using a vacuum. That board will be out of the question for that.

I do wonder though if the acrylic will actually kill the 3d look. It may just look like an inlay instead of the tree in a tree. Maybe you could just sandwich the board between a backer and a sheet of glass in the frame. You know, kinda like a sand painting, or a shadow box look. Then you don't have to worry about bubbles, cracks in the acrylic from wood movement, etc.....If the background is breaking up and would not take the vertical hanging, maybe just a coat of polyurethane when it is put on the backer board. Use the flatest sheen you can find.

Certainly more than my $.02, but just trying to help.

[Ironwood]

Off gassing and bubbling issues are NOT that complex. You simply need to have the piece in a "cooling" mode so it is not of gassing on it's own. IF temp of the piece is rising while epoxing then YES bubbles are and issue. AND yes there will be pockets of bubbles, use a small propane torch to give the mix a little CO2, it is the gas  and not the flame that makes the bubbles come out . If you use the West System epoxy, they have a 207 clear coat hardener that has LESS yellowing effect. MY .03 cent.

           Ironwood

[OneWithWood]

I have thought of the shadow box idea and it was the first thing Linnea suggested when she saw it.  My concern is that the piece will degrade over time.  Preventing that degrade is why I am leaning towards some type of coating.  I like the shadow box after applying a polyurethane coating.  The coating would have to be sprayed on because parts of it are too delicate for a brush.

I have built a sailboat but we did not use the West system epoxies - wish we had.  The WestSystem is made to be sprayed, correct?

I do have an a/c vacuum pump that is capable of pulling a 30Hg vacuum.  Probably overkill  :D

Keep the ideas coming.

What would you all suggest as a frame design.  I want to use the spalted maple for the frame.  The boards are all a heavy 4/4 to 5/4 as is the board in the pic.

I came up with the tree-in-a-tree story because of the bark inclusion in the background. 

[gharlan]

with the pour on finishes you do not need any vacuum. The propane torch works great as suggested or you can exhale across if it is a small enough area. The ex-88 is the same as the ax-74 except it has the uv blockers to prevent yellowing. It is about the consistency of syrup when poured and sometimes needs a little help flowing out even if pouring to thin. The down side of it is it is only usable on horizontal surfaces. It does dry very shinny though but a little polishing with rottenstone will make it more satin. Good luck with you project however you tackle it.

[Furby]

What does the other side look like?
No pics needed right now, just describe it.
If it looks interesting, I would consider some kind of free standing object.
Maybe frame it in the spalted maple with glass on both sides with a clock or lamp on top of the frame.
Or just free standing by itself.