Harbor Freight chain grinder. Opinion?

[Steven A.]

Harbor Freight will have their bench mounted chain grinder on sale on Black Friday for $28.00
Anyone have one? Is it any good?
I'd be sharpening maybe 10 to 20 chains a year with it.

Thanks, Steve

[MemphisLogger]

I use one and like it. It's more flexible than the name brand grinders so it requires a little more attention but with a decently dressed wheel it dous a good job.

I take it to big jobs with me and plug it into the power inverter on my pickup. When i do the customer always brings out their chain for a sharpening too--at my hourly custom sawing rate.   

[sharp edge]

Had one for 4 years and like it a lot. I do use a file in the woods. Use a H-F digital caliper to keep the depth right. I think the caliper is the best deal I every got in my life and had lots of calipers over the years. 8)
SE

[Warbird]

Can you give me the item/part number on that chain grinder?  I went to their web site but couldn't find the one you are talking about.

*edit* Think I found it.  I don't see how it works, though.  Is that for sharpening just square chisel chain?

[Cut4fun]

I was wanting to get one just for rocked out chains. But when I ask about the wheel for 7/32 cutters on the 3/8 chain, they told me they dont sale them. So it comes with a wheel for doing 3/8LP and thats what wheels they carry.
So what are you using for regular 3/8 chains?

[TexasTimbers]

Maybe I should have spent $28 instead of the $99 I did on the northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company #193021. It is not a quality machine.

At least if I had bought the HF one and didn't like it I would only be out about $35 after shipping. If I replace mine I am gonna go the opposite end of the spectrum and get the Maxx, Silvey, or FB308 if I can find one on ebay for non-stupid money. I figure life is too short to dread using a tool. I want to look forward to it and think it's money well spent when you pay a premium price for a premium tool. Another lesson re-learned for umpteenth time.

I only bought the NT one because I read favorable reviews on it. I just don't like it. It's a cheap POJ and a waste of a perfectly good Ben Franklin IMHO.

[Daren]

if I can find one on ebay for non-stupid money.

Keep an eye out for an old Foley grinder too. I have a couple. I don't care if the thing is 20 years old...it is still going to be worth the money. I have one that is probably 40 years old (the other is newer), that old thing has been used hard its whole life in a sharpening shop, not once in awhile by an individual. It is still a better tool than 90% of the new ones on the market. They can be had for $100 on a good day, last one you will ever buy.

[TexasTimbers]

That's what I meant by the FB308 Foley Belsaw. Are you saying get one that's just the Foley before Belsaw bought 'em out?

[Daren]

That's what I meant by the FB308 Foley Belsaw. Are you saying get one that's just the Foley before Belsaw bought 'em out?

No, I just did not read your post close enough I kinda scanned it and missed the FB308 part  :. Which now makes me look stupid because the model 308 is the 40 year old one I was talking about  :D. I have a 399 too. If you do find a 308 cheap enough and it does not have the manual give me a holler, I can scan mine and send it to you. I'm sure you know how to use it...but the manual never hurts to have  :P

[TexasTimbers]

Cool. I am gonna bee looking for one. Maybe I can find some jackleg that will trade thier 40 year old used worn out 308 for a brand new shiny northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company. :D Guess I would have to catch him on a day he was smoking crack. ;D

[rebocardo]

>  I figure life is too short to dread using a tool.

I can agree with that   

It is one reason I avoid buying tools in stores like Autozone.

[Daren]

I don't know anything about the grinders that are being asked about. But I did have one more tidbit about using any grinder. Underpowered ones can ruin chains. Even improper use of one with enough power can. You should always make a fast/hard stroke down as you grind. Slowly wearing away/fiddling around at the tooth builds friction heat, this heat will make the tooth dull alot faster the next time you use it. I know chains get hot in use, but a grinder can make them red hot, not good for a cutting edge.

If you are grinding a chain and the wheel speed is slowing don't baby it. Push hard, if it stops the machine lift up, let it build full speed and push again. You want as little time with that wheel in contact with the tooth as possible.

[stonebroke]

I bought a grinder from my Stihl dealer 30 years ago. Stihl makes quality stuff. Just switch it on and go. Have not had to touch it at all.

Stonebroke

[pineywoods]

I have one of the harbor freight grinders. It has some limitations, but it's just fine for my way of doing things. I keep spare chains and swap them out before they get dull dull. Use the grinder to just touch up the cutters. If the tooth is so dull you need to take of 1/16 of an inch, the harbor freight grinder is a bit marginal. I caught mine on sale for $29.95  figure use it 5 times and it's paid for...

[Warbird]

I bought a grinder from my Stihl dealer 30 years ago. Stihl makes quality stuff. Just switch it on and go. Have not had to touch it at all.

Stonebroke

I did too but not a bench grinder like these guys are talking about.  Mine mounts right onto the bar of the chainsaw.  I still don't see how the bench grinder works, cause I can't picture how the wheel contacts a normal chains cutting surfaces just right.

Plan to head down to the local Stihl dealer and figure it out soon, tho.  ;)

[stonebroke]

warbird

Lots of adjustment. You can pretty much grind anything you want into the chain.

Stonebroke

[rebocardo]

> I can't picture how the wheel contacts a normal chains cutting surfaces just right.

There are not enough adjustments on the cheaper ones for that, so you are right.

How I do it depending on the chain.

Use the curve in the grinding wheel's edge to match the bevel in the tooth as close as possible. This requires continual adjustment because by the time you finish a long chain, it will be off just enough from grinding, so doing the cutters on the other side without adjustment is no good. You can get close to the factory look on a chain this way.

Sometimes when doing a chain, you have to bump the cutting a bit closer to keep all the teeth the same length because the wheel wears. What I do is check the 1st and last tooth ground to be sure they are all the same, profile wise.

What I mostly do is just set it at the proper top plate angle, try not to create an extra gullet ?, and just grind it at the preset angles using the side of the grinding wheel, and make sure all the teeth are the same length. It is quicker, easier, but, results in a slightly poorer cut. I concentrate on making the cutting corner sharp were it could draw blood by a slight press. Many of my chains dull from hitting urban objects so having an extremely sharp chain last for three hours is not a priority. 

Where the last method is worse is on ripping chains with only a 0 or 10 degree top plate angle.

[TexasTimbers]

Daren thanks for the tip. I have been doing it exactly wrong! I was babying it because the wheel was slowing just as you describe. I have also thought my chains get dull too fast i think you have corrected my problem.

[oldsaw]

I use one to convert regular chains into rip chains.  It's a bit flexible, as was mentioned, but I take small bites to keep the wheel speed up and the flexing down.  If you understand it's limitations, it isn't a bad deal.  The run them regularly on sale for $40, and once in a while at $30, which is what I paid for mine.

I hand file to sharpen, but every now and again I'll run them on the HF to true them up.

Mark

[Frickman]

I've used the Stihl grinder, and love it. A friend has the Harbor Freight grinder, and he loves it. I like good tools, he doesn't care.  :(

[PineNut]

I have the Harbor Freight grinder. I use a hand held grinder for the sharpening and every several times, I use the HF grinder to true up the chain. If you don't have a large number of chains to maintain, the HF grinder should be good. It works but has some give in the frame. If I did a lot of sharpening, I would look for a better unit. 

[hydro2]

I have a Speed Sharp Chain Grinder #45320 from Baileys and love it. Works very well and can sharpen the chain many times before it is time for a new chain.  You take it to the shop and after they sharpen 3 or 4 times the chain is shot.  It is much better than sharpening by hand.  Get the chain factory sharp.  Paid about $269.00 for mine.  Well worth it.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=45320&catID=152