iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Steel Or Poly Banding?

Started by WIwoodworker, September 06, 2007, 11:31:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

WIwoodworker

Wondering if any of you who saw and ship quantities of lumber have an opinion on whether poly banding is sufficient for shipping or if steel banding is the way to go? It stands to reason that steel banding will be stronger but is it necessary?

I'm talking about quantities in the 200bf to 500bf range. Thanks.
Peterson 9" WPF

thecfarm

This might help you out until someone else posts. poly banding  I did a search on steel banding and came up with this. 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Ron Wenrich

I have only seen steel banding in the mills I've been around.  Its coated, so you don't get any discoloration of the wood.  And, it can be recycled, which helps reduce the price.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Bibbyman

Here is another thread on the same subject...

Banding



We've used Acme 5/8 poly banding for over a year now.  We seldom use steel any more.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Cedarman

We use both depending on what is shipped and where it is going.
If bundles are going on a flat bed and will be strapped, we use 1/2" Tenex plastic strapping to keep the wood together. 
For loading in containers that will go overseas we use 3/4" steel.
For LTL bundles we always use steel with cardboard on corners to keep steel from damaging the corners.  Plastic won't stand up to the abuse at the trucking terminals.
For logs that are bundled and shipped flatbed we use steel also.

Plastic is a lot more economical.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

SAW MILLER

  I use the poly from Baileys.It is tuff and has worked well on 500 b/f bundles of hardwood.
    I use it for all kinds of stuff other than banding.I'm always cutting me a little chunk of that yellow "rope" to get me out of a pinch 8)
LT 40 woodmizer..Massey ferg.240 walker gyp and a canthook

WIwoodworker

Thanks for the responses. I thought I had seen a thread on it here once before but I couldn't find it.
Peterson 9" WPF

LT40HDD51

I remember reading something somewhere about poly banding (thats helpful, aint it  ::) ;D). It claimed you could stretch it tight and it would allow the wood to shrink and still stay tight. It had some kind of one-way buckle, and the tightening tool could be used to re-tighten the bands after the wood shrinks and dries...
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

Bibbyman

The stuff we are using has some elasticity to it and tends to keep bundles tighter longer than steel.  But this kind uses crimped steel seals.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

SAW MILLER

The material from Baileys has a steel buckle and can be re-tightened easily.
LT 40 woodmizer..Massey ferg.240 walker gyp and a canthook

Warren

I have used 3/4" steel, 3/4" orange woven synthetic from Bailey's and currently using CordStrap brand plastic with same style buckle as Bailey's.  Synthetic is lighter to handle bulk bundles than steel.  Having the "all in one" tensioning tool for synthetic with buckles is easier than having the tension tool, the snips and the crimping tool when workig with steel.  Also very simple to cut the synthetic strapping with a pocket knife.  No need to run down a pair of snips to break a bundle open.

I still use steel when shipping to construction sites.  But, I am aware that steel strapping will break as well when mis-treated....

Warren

LT40SHD42, Case 1845C,  Baker Edger ...  And still not near enough time in the day ...

Thank You Sponsors!