woodmizer setup

[Dan_Shade]

How high do you guys set the frame up from the ground when leveling?  do you lift it minimally? or do you get it flat, then lift it another hole?

i've found my saw to be a little "wobbly" when setting up.  not a real big deal to me, but if I could get it out, that would be great.  I normally don't lift the frame up any higher than I have to to make it level.

[woodbeard]

Well, the wheels serve as part of the support system, so you don't want to lift them off the ground, and usually taking it up one more notch will do that, so I think you probably have it about right.

[big_sid]

you need to let the tires still give support, don't lift them off the ground,  I have found that if the jacks are down in the bracket thing very far instead of level with the top, it will cause the mill to wobble some, the front jack is the one that makes it worse. I go by the water bottle to check if it is level, but you want all the jacks down soild on the ground. sometimes you may have to dig out under one tire, or put dirt under the other, then if it looks level enough let the jacks down and do the same, keeping them low enough not to hit the blade, or let the log or cant rest on them.

[spencerhenry]

i always get the tires off of the  ground. the springs and air in the tires are an unknown, that doesnt give the same amount of support all the time. the log is closer bar far to the one tire therefore the suspension is loaded unevenly which is the bane of accurate cutting. i currently have my mill at a job in town. set up on a concrete slab. i will adjust the two end outriggers 3 to 4 times during the day because the mill changes with temperature. today first thing it was cutting almost perfect, then about an hour later after it got heated up, i had to release some tension from the rear outrigger, about an 1/8 of an inch. then it cut fine for another couple of hours.
but i am resawing doug-fir beams, truing them up. my maximum allowable difference in thickness from end to center to end, is 1/16 inch.

[Dan_Shade]

how do you know you're cutting that straight, spencerhenry?

[musikwerke]

I have an early Wood-Mizer with only the hole by hole adjustable outriggers and I discovered the same wobbly sensation after I got the mill leveled and all outriggers bearing nicely.  Next step? I let all the air out of one tire and some out of the other.  Solid as a rock.  Of course you'll need to be within reaching distance of an air hose (like I am) or have a portable air tank.

[spencerhenry]

i know i am cutting that accurately because i measure the the start end of the cut on almost every beam, and about 50% of the tail end. as the saw head is progressing, i check the piece thickness about every 2 feet until i get past the first fixed bunk. the problem usually is that the end outriggers have slightly too much tension, sometimes it is not enough tension. but it is easy to see if the outriggers are loose, as opposed to too tight. when the beam end is thin, i need more tension, when thick i need less. my outriggers are the hole type, so i use wood shims from the resawing process. thin slabs of doug-fir from almost paper, to 1/4".

[big_sid]

how do you know the beam or cant is'nt bowing up or down on the ends, causing the thick or thin cut. I find that to be the cause most of the time.

[spencerhenry]

simple measurements can tell that. plus if it is the piece moving it isnt consistent. third, when taking 1/4" off of a 400# beam, there is no movement internally.