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American Sycamore

Started by PoDunk, August 02, 2007, 11:13:23 AM

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PoDunk

Would American sycamore be worth milling into 2x lumber, or any lumber ?
We have a two lane hyway thats being turned into a four lane in my town, and today about eight or ten sycamore tree's in the 30" diameter range are hitting the ground.

ely

it makes a very pretty quarter sawn lumber. a little tough to dry though. if you flat saw it, it seems to really want to move badly. quarter sawing helps with stabilizing it imo. and i personally saw it a little thicker to have wiggle room on the planer.

a very solid wood for furniture and other projects.

jbeat

Podunk,  Go to the Peterson web site (SPONSOR COLUMN ON LEFT)then resourses then tree dictionary. You will find the wood's characteristics as well  as some common uses. IMO sycamore would be great for covered framing applications.
John B

PoDunk

Thanks guys, just wanted a few opinions before I go load those heavy logs.
I was also wondering how the stuff saws, is it hard or soft ?

pigman

Sycamore is one of the easiest woods I saw with my bandmill.  If the logs are fresh, water will fly off the blade.


Bob
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

PoDunk

Guess all that water explains why they are so dang heavy

WDH

Try to quartersaw as much of it as possible.  Flat sawn stuff behaves poorly in glued panels.  As structural wood, it should do better. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Part_Timer

I sawed and dried about 1000bf of the stuff last summer.  The qsawn stuff was fine and about 1/4 of the flat sawn blew apart when it was dried.  I am having Faron turn it into t&g flooring for me this fall.  It is for the kids bedrooms.  I'm also going to use it for the trim in those rooms.

It saws very easy on the swinger.
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

ARKANSAWYER

 

  Nope just let them burn it.  It is not worth trying to spalt it or trying to dry it and make anything.

  (by the way where did you say this road was a going in?)

                                                               ;)
ARKANSAWYER

scsmith42

Earlier this year Jeff Mills (Dad2nine) and I worked together to saw and dry around 1000 bd ft of 4/4 quartersawn sycamore, and about 100 bd ft of 8/4.  It dried like a dream - there was absolutely minimal degrade (less than 1%).  End checks were non-existent too.

Jeff coated the logs with anchor seal the same day that they were felled, and then he milled them and got them into my kiln within a couple of weeks of logging. 

The drying process is similar to oak - about 3% per day targeted in my Nyle DH kiln.

The lumber turned out superb, with some really nice ray flect. 

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

PoDunk

I think that I will load them, and let them set in my yard until they start looking like Arkansawyer's wood, WOW 8)

dad2nine

Quote from: scsmith42 on August 02, 2007, 07:08:20 PM
Earlier this year Jeff Mills (Dad2nine) and I worked together to saw and dry around 1000 bd ft of 4/4 quartersawn sycamore, and about 100 bd ft of 8/4.  It dried like a dream - there was absolutely minimal degrade (less than 1%).  End checks were non-existent too.

Jeff coated the logs with anchor seal the same day that they were felled, and then he milled them and got them into my kiln within a couple of weeks of logging. 

The drying process is similar to oak - about 3% per day targeted in my Nyle DH kiln.

The lumber turned out superb, with some really nice ray flect. 

Scott

Scott is really responsible for how well that load of QS Sycamore turned out, I just made little flat ones from big round ones. He did a class A drying job...  The Sycamore I cut was so wet no blade lube was needed water ran out of the log just ahead of the blade. I left the bark on one edge since there is no real defined line between heart / sap wood and I think folks liked that because we measured BF as if I was going to edge it. They got a little extra wood on the butt flare boards.

If I were you I would grab the ones larger than 20" diameter on the small end and mill them in the traditional quarter sawn way. Flat sawn sycamore ain't worth a hoot as far as appearance and stability , but QS'ing makes it a completely different looking and good stable lumber.

Oh one other thing end seal the logs and mill ASAP, don't let the lumber see much if any direct sunlight, it'll split up quicker than you can blink an eye... Scott doesn't know it but I lost a little bit of lumber because I let it sit in the sun to long a little over an hour over dinner break.

Thanks

WDH

Also, if you air dry it versus kiln dry it, do not leave any bark on the boards unless you like wood boring insects.  Bark is a bug magnet.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

PoDunk,

It's great that these are big trees - just the size you need to really get
that great characteristic grain of the QS Sycamore!  Be prompt an get 'em.

I sometimes return to the scene (and mourn) where I lost at least 30 tons
of highway stuff to a burn pile, because someone got irate down the road and
the state road construction supervisor had crews burn logs that I had already
bucked and end-sealed  - even some 40" Pecan!  Well, the reason I return and mourn
is that I have to drive that highway when I work in Milledgeville, GA.

Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

PoDunk


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