Trailer too high

flip · August 01, 2007, 12:24:10 PM

Now that I have some honey do projects done I need to get back to finishing my "log" trailer. I bought the 7,000lb axles, springs, wheels, etc. new from a place online. The frame is made of 2X6 steel tube with the deck of 2X6 steel C channel. On top of the deck is some pressure treated 2X10s and 2X12s. The wheels are for trailers and rated correctly for the axles I have. Tires are some used LT tires we took of a vehicle for replacemnt.
My problem is that the deck height is about 40 inches above the ground when trailer is sitting level. This is a problem since my hitch is sky high and if I hook up to the trailer the thing sets like a drag car (butt way up in the air). I can level the trailer by modifying the hitch no problem but it still sits way high for parbuckling. My thought is that I take the 16" wheels off and put some mobile home wheels and tires on but am having trouble finding some sort of hub adapter to get 'er done. I won't loose much carrying capacity going that way and moving the springs around is really not an option. I don't want to put the MH drum brakes on because I'll lose the 12" drums stopping power.

Help.

WH_Conley · August 01, 2007, 12:52:05 PM

I got one I lowered by changing spring position on the axle. Run the axle above the springs. Course this might give an issue with bed clearing the tires.

flip · August 01, 2007, 01:01:53 PM

Thought about that one, I'd only have about 3 inches above the springs if I went that route. I was told because they were slipper springs I might end up bottoming out on the frame.

OneWithWood · August 01, 2007, 02:21:38 PM

You could modify the tongue. I did that so I could pull mine around with the crawler. You will probably need ramps for parbucking.
I need to fab up some ramps so I can load the crawler on my trailer. I am toying with the idea of welding a tail on it to lower the back so the ramps do not need to be so long. Do you have a dove/beaver/duck tail on yours?

Quartlow · August 01, 2007, 03:45:21 PM

40 INCHES?!! How did you manage to get that high? the neighbors 10 ton tag along trailer is only about 32 inches high
Ok I have to ask, how much weight are you figuring on hauling? We have one here on the farm that has house trailer axles under it and I've hauled some pretty hefty loads on it. never had a problem stopping it. I would have to measure it but I bet it isn't over 28 inches.

How much could you gain going to a low profile 16 inch tire?

flip · August 01, 2007, 03:57:41 PM

Didn't realize it until I put the wheels and tires on. I did all the welding, fabing with the thing sittin on a frame rack. :

I figured the 2X6 frame was minimum for the axle ratings (14,000 for the pair). I'll get some pics. tonight so you can see.
As far as leveling the tongue, gonna hafta do that. I just need to get the deck leveled and lower so loading isn't a pain.

Quartlow · August 01, 2007, 06:32:51 PM

I'm guessing you put the c channel cross members on top of the frame?
how much clearance do you have between the top of the tire and the bottom of the deck?
I hate to suggest it but go with low pro tires, then load it to the max and check your clearance.
Shudder the thought, but cut the spindles off add a piece of 1/2 inch plate to the end of the axle and drop it
3 or 4 inch channel would have done the job ;) thats all that is in a semi trailer.
of course 20/20 hindsight isn't any help but you could have cut the channel to fit in between the frame rails
Nephews factory built trailer has 2X2 angle cross members, we haven't bent it, Yet :D :D

sawguy21 · August 02, 2007, 12:13:46 AM

Holy cow, 40" is awfully high.

Could you run the tires outside the deck without going over width? Dropped axles might help.

flip · August 02, 2007, 08:50:12 AM

Here ya go...

OneWithWood · August 02, 2007, 08:58:47 AM

Flip, my trailer sets up high but I don't think it is that high. The hitch meets up with the hitch on the truck fairly well and I have good sized road wheels on it. If you would like to come up and check it out let me know. Maybe we can have a go at the ball joints and universals on the old F250 in the picture while we're at it. I would be happy to help with your trailer in return.

I am definately looking at building ramps or a tail and ramps so I can load equipment on this trailer.

flip · August 02, 2007, 10:12:24 AM

The I beam in the pic. is what I intend to level the thing out. I'm gonna cut the receiver off the front and weld on the I beam and I got a heavy duty mount I can adjust up and down by bolting in different holes. I wish there was some type of adapter to go from the 6 lug wheels to the MH wheels, that would give me the drop I need. :(

Dan_Shade · August 02, 2007, 10:22:42 AM

it looks like you could drop 2" or so just in your spring hanger.

pigman · August 02, 2007, 10:35:21 AM

I like low trailers. They are much more stable with heavy loads. I would put the axles on top of the springs and then put on bumper pads between the axles and frame to keep the tires from hitting the flat on maximum loads. On heavy loads you don't need the springs anyway.

Bob the non trailer expert

flip · August 02, 2007, 01:23:09 PM

I guess my hold up to flipping my axles on top is that if I do, from rough measurements I'll end up with about 2 1/2-3" of clearance between frame and axle. Not sure if that is enough, but it might be iffin' my springs are stiff enough. ???

Fla._Deadheader · August 02, 2007, 01:29:32 PM

You gained the height when you used the walking Beam between the springs, and the long hangers.

Axle over the springs, or, hangers without the walking beam feature. You would have to compress the springs beyond center, to have the frame hit the axles.

Quartlow · August 02, 2007, 04:57:27 PM

The only problem I foresee with flipping the axles over is, some axles are bent to camber (is that the right term/) the tires some. If they are your going to have to cut the mounts off the axle and move them to the bottom side. We did this on my cousin trailer, only we went the other way, we needed some height.

We unbolted one side, cut the saddles off, pulled the spring out and set it and the bracket on tp the axle and clamped it in place with the u bolts. Tacked it up, did the same thing on the other side, then pulled the axle out and welded the saddles up solid. That kept everything indexed pretty close.

I doubt you will compress the springs far enough to hit the deck. those are pretty short springs which relates to less travel

ksu_chainsaw · August 03, 2007, 08:53:18 PM

If you cut off the spring hangers that you have on there now, it looks like you could drop the trailer by at least 3-4". All the clearance that you need there is about 1/4" between the bottom of the beam and the bolt.

Just my 2 cents

Charles

flip · August 06, 2007, 10:14:59 AM

If I get time tonight, I'm gonna flip em over and see what that looks like. Had too much going this weekend to get er done. :

olyman · August 06, 2007, 06:12:00 PM

and cut the center out of the hangers as suggested--and weld the side pieces up on the frame--so have about 1/4 between spring eye and frame--and put springs on top of axles--lots of them built that way---camber would be the same with springs on top or bottom--

customsawyer · August 06, 2007, 08:06:26 PM

Don't be like me and forget that the wieght of the trailer has to be figured in when you are putting the max load on a trailer. I have a factory built trailer rated at 14,000 pounds and it has the axels over the springs and it pulls just fine. I overload it all the time and it will beat the u-bolts in half over the axels but you just carry some spare in the tool box and when the tires start to smoke you get out and put your new bolts on and rewire the brakes and off you go. ;D

rebocardo · August 07, 2007, 05:45:28 PM

Those look like Cooper Mud Rovers on the trailer. Have you used them before on a trailer?

I am building yet another new trailer and I am torn between a street tire with a rain tread so the trailer tracks okay behind my little 4x4 or a floatation type tire so it doesn't sink in the mud, become a mud donut, and become impossible to turn backing down a hill.

flip · August 07, 2007, 05:48:57 PM

We have some excellent front end /suspension guys here at work. What they tell me is that a radial tire, like an LT truck tire will last longer and carry as much or more than the tires that typically come on trailers. I actually dug them out of the tire pile at work because they were take offs and free to me-as well as being LT.

flip · August 08, 2007, 08:23:10 AM

Here's the flipped over axles, gonna hafta do some notching >:(

I'm going to end up with about 32" when it's all leveled out. I need a bigger jack :

Dan_Shade · August 08, 2007, 08:28:19 AM

carry a wooden block to put under the jack! those tall jacks can get you in trouble!

Quartlow · August 08, 2007, 10:37:34 PM

Quote from: olyman on August 06, 2007, 06:12:00 PM
y---camber would be the same with springs on top or bottom--

Depends on the axle, if its just a round tube clamped in place with no saddles, then yes your right. If it's like the ones on cousins trailer it had saddles welded to the tube. In that case your rolling the axle over 180 degrees and then it would through the camber out. The tube would be bent down instead of up.