Anyone have a recipe for exterior wood protectant?

[Modat22]

I'm looking for a recipe for an exterior use wood protectant, to use on a board and baton barn that can hopefully be sprayed on. I found one years ago that contained something like linn seed oil, mineral spirits and something else but can't locate that one.

I'd like to treat a large barn without breaking the bank on the "T" word.

Thanks

[beenthere]

An old recipe that was great when Penta concentrate (10%) was available is:

10% Boiled Linseed Oil
5% Penta concentrate (10%)
1½% Paraffin
83½% Mineral Spirits

This was applied with brush or sprayer. If for a barn, then #1 or #2 Fuel oil in place of the Mineral Spirits could be substituted.

Penta (Pentachlorophenol) isn't as easily available for public purchase, but Penta crystals used to be available (last I knew, in a 50# bag minimum). But those crystals have to be put into solution to get the 10% concentrate, and some special care and knowledge needs to be considered to do that. The 50#, as I remember, makes a huge amount of Penta concentrate. 

Probably best to find what is available now, and more easily obtained.

To translate the above recipe into quantities, I found the following on a slip of paper.
Penta concentrate    - 3 qts
Boiled Linseed oil      - 1¾ qts
Paraffin wax             - 1/3 lb.
Fuel oil/mineral spirits - 4 gal

[Raider Bill]

I've often wondered but doesn't putting flamables such as Mineral spirts on your house heighten the fire threat?

[okie]

I dont think mineral spirits would be much of a hazard once it dries. Linseed oil can be nasty stuff though, it can spontaneously combust if not handled right. If you use a rag tp apply or wipe off excess, when you get done spread that rag out flat where it can get air all around it to dry. If you wad it up and throw it down it reacts with the oxygen and will combust. There is an article on the web somewhere titled "The house that Dorothy built", This poor woman put lots of back breaking work (mostly by herself) into a beutiful verticle log house just to have it go up in flames when treating it with the linseed oil.

[TexasTimbers]

Modat I too am wanting to find a cheap homebrew but mine needs to have some UV blocker so I think I have to go the store bought route.

Okie she rebuilt the house though.

[beenthere]

I've often wondered but doesn't putting flamables such as Mineral spirts on your house heighten the fire threat?

No

[woodmills1]

uncle larrys famous walnut stain

5 gal diesel
half gallon boiled linseed oil
half gallon non fibered roofing tar

I roll it on all sides and edges before I put up the siding looks good lasts long and the water beads off   add more tar for darker less for lighter.  The deisel evaporates away so no lingering smell.  My thoughts are a finish like this isnt anymore flamable that store bought non water based finish.

[Modat22]

Thanks folks!

[okie]

Kevjay, I seen where she rebuilt it too. Talk about determination, Its just a shame the first one went up.

[Timburr]

Modat22, is this the one your looking for?

An olde British recipe, was cook up equal parts of Stockholm tar, terpentine and linseed oil.
Stockholm tar was used here for centuries for water-proofing the caulking on ships. It seals and keeps the nasties at bay.
Linseed oil repels the water and terps or mineral spirits helps it all get into the wood.

[Modat22]

actually three mentioned ring a bell, I'm going to investigate all mentioned here for

1. Ease of application
2. cost
3. effectiveness against water/insects (I'm not worried about UV related graying)


Thanks for posting folks

[TexasTimbers]

Am I fighting a losing battle with the UV thing ya think? maybe I should just let the wood gray right along with my hair.

[Modat22]

Gray looks nice, You could always use woodmills idea or add a pigment to the treatment. I've been thinking about adding pigment stain to whatever I use because many provide a slight UV protection.

[tomboysawyer]

I dont think mineral spirits would be much of a hazard once it dries. Linseed oil can be nasty stuff though, it can spontaneously combust if not handled right. If you use a rag tp apply or wipe off excess, when you get done spread that rag out flat where it can get air all around it to dry. If you wad it up and throw it down it reacts with the oxygen and will combust. There is an article on the web somewhere titled "The house that Dorothy built", This poor woman put lots of back breaking work (mostly by herself) into a beutiful verticle log house just to have it go up in flames when treating it with the linseed oil.

Here's "The House that Doroty Built" article:

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/ainsworth86.html

[jaybird88]

 i have been researching different stain formulas and doing test in the backyard. some formulas call for
5 oil/1.5 k1
3 oil/3 k1
and .5 oil / 5 kero (i subbed Kerosene for diesel)

can anyone explain the benefit of having more oil?

edit there were different formulas that called for more oil but it only went up to about 50%

[farmfromkansas]

Saw one once in a magazine, was for about a gallon total, included about a quart of linseed oil and a cup of paraffin, the rest was paint thinner.  Tried it, you heat the paraffin, pour it into the mixture, and it stays liquid.  Used it to seal the inside of a expensive wood garage door. Had redwood panels.

[Don P]

i have been researching different stain formulas and doing test in the backyard. some formulas call for
5 oil/1.5 k1
3 oil/3 k1
and .5 oil / 5 kero (i subbed Kerosene for diesel)

can anyone explain the benefit of having more oil?

In theory, or sales, more solvent helps it penetrate deeper. It is also the cheapest ingredient so it makes the more expensive ingredients go further. I'm not sure I believe that beyond a solvent concentration thin enough to be easily workable that it helps penetrate any deeper and it dilutes the good stuff.

The penta, oil, paraffin and spirits recipe is the old USFPL WRP, water repellant preservative recipe. The penta was the preservative, the wax and oil were the water repellant. When it faied to bead water it was time to add another coat.

[jaybird88]

i have been researching different stain formulas and doing test in the backyard. some formulas call for
5 oil/1.5 k1
3 oil/3 k1
and .5 oil / 5 kero (i subbed Kerosene for diesel)

can anyone explain the benefit of having more oil?

In theory, or sales, more solvent helps it penetrate deeper. It is also the cheapest ingredient so it makes the more expensive ingredients go further. I'm not sure I believe that beyond a solvent concentration thin enough to be easily workable that it helps penetrate any deeper and it dilutes the good stuff.

The penta, oil, paraffin and spirits recipe is the old USFPL WRP, water repellant preservative recipe. The penta was the preservative, the wax and oil were the water repellant. When it faied to bead water it was time to add another coat.

some of the formulas called for more oil, this made me think of the used motor oil that we used to treat trailor beds, it worked really well and was all oil.
i made a few of these mixes and so far i like the
.5 tar
.5 LS oil
5 gal K1
i think this looks the best but i want to get a good life time with the stain. i didnt like the mix with the 40% oil, didnt look as good and the K1 didnt cut it as good.
i like the tar for color because it gives added protection to the wood but its so dark. i would really like to figure a way to lighten the color but keep the ratio of tar.

[farmfromkansas]

I bought some CWF once, had tung oil in it and was a good product.  Used it up, and needed some more, picked it up, and instead of tung oil it had coal oil.  I was disappointed in the later formula.