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What to use for Mill Timbers

Started by jason.weir, June 26, 2007, 10:12:21 AM

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jason.weir

Getting ready to order all new timbers for the circle mill I'm putting back together and wondered what to get.

I like to looks of the old wooden mills and wont be going the steel route.

The mill once finished will be in under cover and not exposed to the elements.

What does everyone use?

Will Eastern White Pine work?

I can also go with Eastern Hemlock, its a little cheaper and sure holds hardware good, bolts and lags don't loosen up.

It works great as long as you work it green but I worry about shake.

I'd rather not spend the extra for oak if I don't need it.

Also, what about paint?  I thought about a linseed oil based stain?

Whats your thoughts?

BTW - I've got Rust Reaper on the way.......

Thanks,
Jason Weir
Chichester, NH

ARKANSAWYER


  Oak and black locust is all I have ever seen under mills in these parts but then we have lots of them.  Vibration and crushing are what you have to contend with.  Do not think white pine would hold up well  and if Hemlock will hold bolts then it may be the better choice.  Oak would be worth the coin and if you want to make a trip to Arkansas I will slice you some white oak up for $0.60 bdft.
ARKANSAWYER

solidwoods

I'd vote Hemlock or white oak or even any oak (that application gets plenty of air to keep it dry).
But my main point is:
Laminate the beam.  It will be stronger (omni directional compared to solid)
and you don't need clear straight grain beams also.  And with laminating,, you can make the beam a larger size compared to solid.
Don't forget all guards.
jim
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

thecfarm

Are you buying logs or these timbers all cut?If they are all cut the shake will show up as soon as the saw is done from what I know.I would not use white pine at all if I had a choice of hemlock.Between the 2 hemlock is a lot better.Oak would probaly be better,but if you don'r want to spend it,than go with the hemlock.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

jason.weir

Looks like hemlock is the way to go, thats what I thought, when I built my house (post and beam) I used hemlock for all the horizontal members (plates, purlins & rafters) and pine for the rest (posts & braces).  If a nail or lag is put into green hemlock it is my experience its next to impossible to remove once the wood dries.

Arkansawyer

Wow - $.60\bdft for oak, thats cheaper than I can buy pine or hemlock here in the northeast, I'm in the $.65-$.70 range.

Solidwoods

Thanks for the laminating tip and reminding me to build guards.  My mothers side of the family were sawyers and every one of them is missing a finger or 2.

CFarm

I'm buying timbers all cut, bad shake is easy to spot but I'm worried about some showing up as the wood dries.  Maybe I'm paranoid.

Thanks,
Jason Weir
Chichester, NH

thecfarm

Yes,jason i think you are being paranoid.My father built a garage,barn out of hemlock.I did not really see any shake.If the shake is real BAD you will see it right quick from what I've seen here.I built a horse run in and did not see any shake,but don't ask me about the two rotten trees I found.They looked real good until I could see the inside of them.I've cut a little hemlock,some pushing 100 years old.I had to cut of a few feet on the butt to get rid of what little shake I did find.Good luck and don't forget we like pictures.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

woodmills1

send me a PM I maybe can cut your beams.  I am in hudson outside of nashua.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

jason.weir

Just as an update, I posted the same question over at OWWM.com, they referenced a book "The Circular Sawmill" by C.H.Wendel.  The book listed 4 separate occasions that the mills used pine.

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?p=159418#159418

If anyone knows were I can get a copy of that book please let me know.  I've checked the usual suspects with no luck.  The library of congress has a copy but they wont let me keep it and I'd have to drive to DC just to look...

I'm going to go with hemlock and hope for the best.  As this is my first mill rebuild, I'll learn as I go and not make the same mistakes the next time..

Jason


Fla._Deadheader


My very first Circle mill was rotted down when I bought it.

  I used SYP and it held up very well. Used creosoted 2 X 8's for cross beams on top of the cement block pillars I built. Used Creosoted 4 X 6's for the tracks. Lagged everything down with angle iron cleats, and sawed VERY accurate lumber, to within 1/32, IF I filed good that particular time.

  Had a GREAT Mentor  8) 8)

  Don't know if Arkansawyer ever heard of Homer Stills from Maumee ?? About the same disposition and patience of the FF's TOM, in Jacksonville.  ;D 8) ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Brian_Rhoad

The Frick wooden mills were made of Fir. My dad used White Oak for a Frick. I have heard of some people using pressure treated for mills.

JSNH

What are you going to use for a power plant?

This is what I was using. It is a Detroit 371. It ran well was around 80 hp. I use 4 vbelts for the reduction but I have seen truck transmissions run right to the blade shaft with a drive shaft. I had another engine that was 100 HP so I upgraded. I was told the best match is 20 HP per tooth engaged in the cut. Less than that you have to cut back on the feed rate. Anyone know what a 371 power unit with a clutch is worth?

jason.weir

A Case 6 cylinder gas unit came with the mill, I have not had it running yet and don't know what its HP rating is, if your unit is for sale I will keep you in mind.

My goal was 100HP as well but I probably don't need it, this won't be a production mill, so a little slower might be just the idea.

I still have to get down to see your setup.

Is the husk on your Lane original?  Does it still have the friction drive?  I need to come down and to take some measurements and make note of the pulley location and belt routing..

Thanks,
Jason

JSNH

The husk has been redone in steel. The pully set up and friction feed is all there and working. I have a blower on it that works good. I am looking for an helper to run it this weekend either sat or sun.  Want to give it a go. The first 3 logs are big after that its easy.

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