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Help me finish my shop

Started by brdmkr, June 17, 2007, 11:46:57 PM

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brdmkr

During my visit from DanG and customSawyer, I asked how they would finish my shop.  DanG suggested marine spar varnish cut with mineral spirits.  I had been thinking about using Behr waterproofer and sealer.  However, I figured I'd post here to see if anyone else had any ideas that I should consider before making a decision.  I like the idea of sealing the wood and I think that DanG's idea would do that.  I am not sure the Behr would provide a good seal and it is a bit pricey as well.  I have not looked into cost of the varnish yet.   My wood finishing experience has always been associated with woodworking and I have not used anything but paint for exterior work until now.

Criteria are,

1.  Protect the wood from the elements.
2.  No not hide the grain.  Some staining would be OK, but paint is out.
3.  Needs to last (at least 4 -5 years as I don't want to have to reapply all the time).
4.  Would be nice if I could spray it on, but I can brush if I need be.
5.  Woul dbe nice if I didn't have to spend hundreds of bucks to get the job done, but I would not sacrifice 1 - 3 for inexpensive (within reason ;))

The siding is rough cut SYP.

Any ideas?????????????????????????
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

Jeff

We have been happy with the finish we put on our house, pool house and fence. Its Sikens  in natural cedar.  It still looks the same for the most part after almost 3 years. The last we bought was $129 for 5 gallons.  It can be sprayed or brushed.  We Sprayed it on on the house, and brushed it in.

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Norm

I used the Behr on my WRC siding of the house when I first built it. I would use what Jeff did, much better finish.

rbhunter

I have used boiled linseed oil 50/50 mix with mineral spirits before. My Grandfather used to use linseed oil on all of the wagon boxes and tongues on the farm. I got the idea of cutting to the 50/50 mixture from a painter who used to use it.

Randy
"Said the robin to the sparrow, I wonder why it must be, these anxious human beings rush around and worry so?"
"Said the sparrow to the robin, Friend I think it must be, they have no heavenly father, such as cares for you and me."
author unknown. Used to hang above parents fireplace.

WDH

What Jeff used sure looks hard to beat. 

A stain designed for outdoor use that you could spray on would seem like the way to go.  That way, you could spray on a new coat whenever the urge struck, and it would not be a major undertaking.

What you have to watch out for is to use a sealer or waterproofer that will turn that ugly dark color differentially up the wall as a reaction to sunlight, or lack thereof.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

scsmith42

This link has some interesting info re treating wood.  Read it to the bottom.

http://www.cedar-guild.com/faq/faq.htm
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Justin L

I'll second the Sikkens. I haven't used it myself but it was recommended by a shop who makes expensive exterior doors. Varnish will crack & peel so you get to strip it someday, but the Sikkens will just wear away and look thin. Then you clean it and apply another coat.
I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant! :)

DanG

This discussion brings to mind a question. :P   Brdmkr has sprayed the interior of the building with a glycol/solubor solution to fight powder post beetles.  It isn't normally reccomended for exterior application because rain will just leach it out anyway.  Now, if he is going to apply a sealer to the outside, wouldn't that stop the leaching?  On the other hand, would the borate solution even be needed, or would the sealer prevent reinfestation?
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Larry

Last spring I built an oak picnic table and used Silkens for a finish.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=19617.0

About November I decided it needed a touch up coat.  Looked at it today and decided it needs another touch up coat as there are a few spots turning grey.  Figure a few swipes with sandpaper and a recoat...should look like new.  Lot of maintenance for a premium finish.

Read the Silkens label..."By nature, hardwoods may require more frequent maintenance". 

I'm not down on Silkens as it has done better than BLO, Behr, and other mixes.  Maybe the hot Arkansas sun, and high humidity has something to do with it.

The cheapest finish I have tried for sheds is used motor oil.  Re-apply once a year.  I also like a good quality paint as sometimes you can get 5 to 8 years with zero maintenance.

Just a few different thoughts...and yes I have a cedar sided house with a natural finish...but never again.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Ironwood

Sikkens is usually refered to as THE best out there. Reid
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Engineer

I put Sikkens Marine on my front door.  I expect it better last danG near forever for the price.  And it turned my nice pine door pumpkin orange.  Looks bizarre next to the Brazilian cherry frame and purpleheart threshold.   :(

And no, I don't have a picture.

But Sikkens is the best stuff out there.  If you only want five years, go to Home Despot and grab something Behr, in a clear or transparent preservative stain.  Flood makes a UV-resistant preservative, and there's always Thompson's Water Seal (aka Thompson's Rot Enhancer, as I like to call it).

brdmkr

right now I have Behr's, but I was thinking I could take it back if there was something better recommended.  I prices the Sikkens...... I think that it had better be DanG good.  It costs almost twice as much as Behr.  I have to do something as the 'graying' is starting on the back.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

beenthere

If you have graying, that is mildew (mold) and I'd suggest a wash of 20-25% bleach/water solution. Rinse, dry good, and then put on a semi-transparent stain.   Get some that has mildewcide in it.  Sikkens likely has it, I am not sure.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

brdmkr

it is more of a whitening really.  I have bleached it to get rid of mold/mildew.  What I am seeing is sun damage.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

logwalker

I have used Silkkens products for at least a dozen years on boats with good to excellant results. The SRD referred to above is a very good product for vertical surfaces, walls and doors. It does hold up on horizontal surfaces but only for 3 years average before it needs to be recoated. That is with 2 or 3 initial coats. I like to use the Natural Oak for tint. It is a nice reddish brown. The marine was formulated to go on to teak and look like varnish. I never use it because I don't like the color at all. I have compared it to Siikens DEK which is formulated for high traffic areas. It seems to be the same product at about 60% of the price of the Marine. DEK holds up 50% better than SRD in horizontal applications. But I still prime with 1 or 2 coats of SRD before the DEK to save some moolah. The products are the same base and very compatible.

In general the finish breathes and will never cloud and lift like a varnish. Easy recoat with little or no scuffing prep. It is better to recoat at fist sign of breakdown than to wait.

Sikkens paint is used almost exclusivly on European luxury cars and the parent company Akso Nobel has been mixing paint for 300 years or so. Bottom line is it is worth the extra money. Remember when spraying that the tranfer rate to the surface is about 60%. Rolling or brushing will save a lot of material.

PM me if I can be of further assistance. Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

Max sawdust

Quote from: Engineer on June 20, 2007, 08:59:32 PM
, and there's always Thompson's Water Seal (aka Thompson's Rot Enhancer, as I like to call it).
:D :D :D
What a hooot!
I am sorry about your door  ::)  I do agree 100% with you about the Thomson's rot enhancer :D :D
Too funny for early in the morning
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