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Author Topic: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall  (Read 4741 times)

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Offline Norwiscutter

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sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« on: June 15, 2007, 07:43:40 pm »
I am going to start some block work this weekend on my new garage and was wondering if there was much of a reason for me not to fill up the blocks as I went with sawdust to act as insulation. I supose over time moisture could eventually cause it to break down, but inside the block wall, I would think that would not be a major concern. Thanks in advanced for an comments.
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Offline Furby

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2007, 08:04:13 pm »
As it breaks down, would any gases seep through the wall?

Offline Tom

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2007, 10:52:10 pm »
In Florida, where concrete block is used commonly, the air space in the block has proved to be the best insulation.  If you put something in there, you are doing more to defeat it than help.
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Offline Don P

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2007, 11:34:07 pm »
We used to pour vermiculite or perlite into the cores though I haven't seen anyone do it in years.
I thumbed real quick through the codebook, below grade I could see them requiring treatment. In termite country I could see a termite barrier being called for. That would be my main fear here, an opening in a joint giving them access to food. But then a poured cap should stop them.

Off topic but one old technique I've seen cause huge problems was the practice of using wood grade stakes in the footer, then blocks, no shield and non treated sills. The termites would chew through the stakes from underneath, get into the block and mud tunnel up to the sill and into the walls undetected. It was something my dad cautioned me against several times. I later came across it and tore one house down that they had destroyed that way. No shield and the white oak sills hadn't stopped them. I don't personally think shields do much, they can get through mighty small holes.

 I don't know, but think about critter food near the ground  ???.

Offline Radar67

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2007, 11:53:50 pm »
Don, it's my understanding that the shields don't necessarily block them out, but makes it easier to identify the mud trail when they cross it. I'm not one to use much bug poison, but for termites I make an exception. All wood at least 18 inches off the ground and a good flooding of termite juice  ;)

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Offline Tom

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2007, 12:12:48 am »
Shields apply to the psyche as well as deter.   You will notice that shields are bent such that the outside edges are turned down.  A Termite knows that she is supposed to be going up.  If she happens to build her tunnel along the bottom of a shield, she becomes confused a will likely turn around to find the right way to go.  A shields vibrations can destroy a tunnel.  The sharp edge also deters building around it.

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Offline Don P

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2007, 08:21:43 am »
That is what I was taught as well.
We do have hidden anchor bolt penetrations and a sheet of metal has laps at corners and sheet ends.

Termite shields aren't a bad line of defense but do have some chinks.

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2007, 09:06:57 am »

 I was taught that Termites can not travel around the edge of the shield, so, they can't get into any woodwork. In the old days, I watched the carpenters spread tar on the blocks, then lay the shield, VERY carefully. Says a lot about craftsmanship, compared to what is done today ???  ::)

  Done correctly, there should be NO holes for Termites to crawl through.
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Offline Don P

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2007, 09:28:13 am »
As I was writing that, I was thinking...hmm, why am I not caulking that?
 :-X :-[ :D

Offline Thomas-in-Kentucky

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2007, 09:34:25 am »
I used a stainless shield on top of my poured walls, then welded the stainless pieces together at the joints and corners.  I used 3/16" x 3" stainless straps for anchors, and welded them to the shield where they penetrate the shield.  It was a big pain in the butt, but I think it was worth it.  Basement posts sit on plinths that are capped with stainless.  Now I just have to figure out how to build my interior basement walls (room partitions) such that they don't provide a path for termites that might make it through the slab if it ever were to crack.  Call me paranoid, but every piece of scrap wood that's been laying on the ground for more than a few months near our house site has termites under it if you look.
 


Any ideas for termite proof interior basement walls?  I was thinking metal studs and only dry-walling the finished side, since one side of the wall is basically storage area.  This would let me inspect for mud tunnels, which would have to be 8 feet tall to reach wood.

http://massiehouse.blogspot.com/2006/03/termite-flashing-stainless-is-not.html

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Offline Don_Papenburg

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2007, 10:45:57 pm »
Nothing wrong with steel studs . I would use the structural steel  studs rather than the non bearing thinfoil ones sold at the bigbox stores.  Think 16 gauge or thicker.
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Offline bitternut

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2007, 09:07:51 pm »
With all the chatter you guys are making about termites I guess maybe a few snow snakes that we get in Western New York are not so bad.  ;D

Offline limbrat

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #12 on: August 30, 2007, 08:07:53 pm »
I did the cord wood extention on my shop with saw dust insulation. I did a 10:1 ratio dry mix with hydrated lime if a termite trys to move in to bad for him.
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Online Left Coast Chris

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Re: sawdust insulation in concrete block wall
« Reply #13 on: August 30, 2007, 08:37:13 pm »
Out here we have to reinforce every other cell with a #4 rebar and put horrizontal bars every 12 or so inches also.  Then ALL cells are grout filled for structural integrety.  We are in seismic zone 3 in the interior valley of Ca and zone 4 on the coast.  zone 4 is the same as Japan (it dosent get any worse except the special study zones right on the faults).   Even for wind loading you should have some reinforcing.   

Interesting that you have no reinforcing?  Get any cracking?  How are you tying the wall to the joists or trusses?  Just curious.......... :P :P
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