iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Concrete form release agent

Started by surfsupinhawaii, May 26, 2007, 12:11:36 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

surfsupinhawaii

 Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for always giving such great advice and being respectful eventhough sometimes the question might seem a bit stupid or without thought. I am about to pour my footing and wanted to re-use my forms for other parts of the home. The bottom portion of the home is logs and wanted to use some of my forms as rafters. I know this is a bit out of the ordinary, but I am sure a lot of you have seen many things used as a release agent on forms and just wanted to get your thoughts on what worked the best and how far in front of the mixer truck the agent should be applied. I am thinking of using household Vegetable oil, but wanted to find out what you all thought. Thanks again.

sawmilllawyer

 8) Just think you are being resourceful, why waste wood when you don't have too? I don't think you want to do this but I seen some concrete guys use old motor oil for a release agent. Sorry I not much help here, it's been awhile since I have done any of that kind of work.
Stihl MS-361, MS-460 mag, Poulan 2150, 2375 Wildthing.

Don P

I think I see what your trying to do, but go with a non food, ain't gonna go rancid lube, maybe the farm supply and mineral oil?

BBTom

Would anchorseal work as a release agent?   I haven't tried it, but it seems like it would work good.
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

surfsupinhawaii

I have about 10 Gallons from changing the oil in my Diesel truck sitting around the house. I would love to use it on my forms to get  rid of it , but think that my inspector might frown on this and that it is not enviornmentally friendly. I like the idea of the mineral oil. I will look into this one.

Gary_C

Many people do use just motor oil, but if you want to reuse the wood, that soot filled used diesel oil will stain your wood pretty bad. The building inspector will not care what you use unless there is an excess that puddles inside the forums or is all over any rebar.

Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

footer

After working in the concrete pipe industry for the better part of 20 years, i would suggest , THIS
If you can find it.
I assume the rafters will not be exposed?  You will most likely not be able to get all the concrete off.

LeeB

A commecial form release agent is used in the industry but I have used diesel as well. Use a pump up garden srayer and give it a good coat. As mentioned, keep it off the rebar as you want the cocrete to bond to the rebar. Also as mentioned, you'll never get it all off the boards. You can start to strip the forms as soon as the concrete gets firm. The longer you wait the harder they are to strip and the harder to clean.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Thomas-in-Kentucky

Form release agent is definitely a good idea for plywood forms with lots of surface area, but you might not need a form release agent for what you are planning to do.  I had very good luck reusing some solid beech lumber that I previously used for form-work (w/o release agent).  I made a set of shelves with the lumber and no one would ever be able to tell they were once used for form work.  If the wood is not checked, and if you are prepared to do some sanding with a belt sander, you will probably be able to get all of the concrete off.    Like LeeB says, the sooner you wreck the forms from the concrete, the easier they will come apart.  If the weather is right, you can strip the forms the next morning.  If the weather is hot and dry, leaving the forms on a few days can be helpful for slowing down the curing process though.

FWIW, some commercial concrete companies will sell you their used plywood for $10/sheet.  They buy it by the train-car-load and pay $60+ a sheet for it and use it many times, but it is virtually indestructible - even if stored outside for years.  I bought 40 sheets (the used kind of course!) about 4 years ago and we have used it multiple times.  The only thing that will keep us from using it "forever" is that we cut it down to size occasionally, and the pieces keep getting smaller.  :)

Thehardway

Poured my footer last Fri.  Used 7/16"  OSB and reinforced it with some scrap 2X4's . Used factory edge of OSB to screed to which kept things nice and straight. Oiled the insides with used 10W30 motor oil.  Rolled it on with a paint roller.  It soaked it up real quick, there was no environmental impact from the oil.  The concrete did not stick to the forms.  I will be able to re-use the forms if I want to with no problems.  Footer turned out well with one exception,  first truck driver got in too big a rush and poured too much too fast in the one corner and a had a couple braces break away. >:( I was not real hapy. Lost a little concrete but moved on and came back and finished out the corner after the concrete first poured in that corner was able to hold its own weight a little better.   Would post pictures of the process but can't get the size down to gallery standards.   I am stripping the forms off this weekend.
Norwood LM2000 24HP w/28' bed, Hudson Oscar 18" 32' bed, Woodmaster 718 planer,  Kubota L185D, Stihl 029, Husqvarna 550XP

Thank You Sponsors!