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Kil-mo-trol

Started by solidwoods, May 13, 2007, 08:12:58 AM

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solidwoods

Anyone use the kil mo trol?
The plug ends are falling off like popcorn.
I am the only user of it so I handle it with care, I paid over $1000. for the system so I take care of it. 
Its obvious that the design of the wire to plug end is fragile. 
I had some fall off but couldn't see how it was happing, but now I know how they are comming off.  I picked up one of the wires, it had 3 plugs on it, I took 4 steps to the kiln load and one of the ends were gone.  Just the plug ends moving while carrying them can make the wire bend at the connector and it breaks the wire.

Any fixes?
The company says purchase replacement ends.  Don't like that idea since the ends are falling off faster than I could keep replacing them (see pouring good money down a bad design hole)

jim
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

Den Socling

Are your connectors "banana plugs"? Do they plug into a hole in the pins? If so, there should be a plastic boot which prevents the wire from bending too sharply. Stranded wire that has been soldered will break with just a couple bends.

solidwoods

Yes Banana plugs.
They are a 1pc. molded plastic with a short wire lead that is soldered to the main wire. 
I can't see replacing the plugs with the originals since they are breaking just from the movement caused by carrying them.
I'm shopping for a replacement plug with a set screw,  then I'll put shrink wrap over the end of the plug to wire or loop the wire back to the plug to create a strain relief concept. 
Depends on what I can find.

This is the replacement procedure from the mfr.
Cut off existing cable so you are working with a fresh piece.  Strip the outer layer of Teflon (yellow) back approximately 4 ½  - 5".

Cut a 2" piece of heat shrink #1 and place it over the entire cable, sliding it down over the Teflon.

Cut (3) 4" pieces of heat shrink #2 and heat shrink them over the white, blue and black wires leaving enough color exposed at the open end to identify each cable.

Pull apart the new Banana plugs, separating the stress boot (yellow, black or blue) from the metal plug.

Slide the stress boot over the heat shrink wires – blue over blue, black over black and yellow over white.  Take a piece of heat shrink #1 (2" long) and slide it on each wire.

Insert the wire into the metal plug and  solder the wire to the plug.

Slide the heat shrink from step #5 over the solder connection and heat accordingly.  This will help  strengthen the connection.  Add a drop of instant bonder to one side of the square plug housing and slide the boot on, lining the holes up.  Slide the 2" piece of heat shrink from step #2 over the 3 wires where they are exposed from the outer Teflon shield and heat shrink again to strengthen connections.



Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

scsmith42

Solidwoods, I just purchased a Kil-mo-trol Plus system and am planning to install in the week after next (after the next load comes out of the kiln).  Out of the box, one of the bananna plugs fell off of the wire!

I think that the problem is that the wires were not tinned or fluxed before soldering, and the solder is not adhering well to them.

If it were me, I'd tin the wires and then solder them back in place.  This should solve your problem.

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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